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4 month old pup nipping feet hard


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I searched a bit on this forum to see if I could find some advice on how to fix this without making an additional post about it, and found that most recommended putting pup in his crate for a nap, ignoring puppy, yipping loudly to show that pup hurt you, etc.

 

Sutter will do this normally when we are in the kitchen - making food, washing dishes, etc. and occasionally when we are walking throughout the house, but it seems to mostly be when we're standing still, trying to get stuff done. He is nipping hard enough that it hurts and exclaiming "OW!" in a very high pitch will occasionally garner a sympathetic look, but then he'll be right back at it.

 

He does this even if he's just woken up for a nap, so I don't know that he's overtired all the time when he does this. I think he sees feet as a toy - they move! - and I know the nipping is normal, but OUCH does it hurt! lol. When he does this I will tell him "No biting", say "OW!" high pitched, or tap him on the nose with a "No!", but ideally I do NOT want to be doing the latter. It does work, though. :/

 

I will also ask him to Sit/Lay Down/Shake so he has something stimulating his brain and takes his mind off biting feet for at least a few seconds.

If he keeps it up he does get put into his crate for a time out, usually until we're done doing whatever we were doing, and then he gets to come out and resume play, etc.

Should I keep up with what I'm doing or change my tactics a bit? Anything different I can try?

 

Here's a picture of the goober, since you read all that! He's 4 mos exactly tomorrow!

post-17394-0-31109200-1427217123_thumb.jpg

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A few things.My first suggestion would be that after you say "ow" or whatnot, give it a second for him to register that he hurt you, then redirect him to an appropriate toy so he doesn't start again. Don't play with him (he doesn't need to think that he only has to nip to get playtime), just give him something to chew on or chase around on his own.

Second, with Aed the high pitched noise just got him excited. What we ended up doing was something suggested on this board, which is grabbing him by the scruff (gently) and placing a hand on his chest to hold him upright/support his weight. It gave him a second to calm down and put an immediate stop to any play he might want to engage in. Honestly it wouldn't have been my first choice, but it didn't hurt him and it did the job.

Lastly, remember that whatever approach you use takes time. Don't despair just because it's not working right away, and don't necessarily give up on what you're trying because of it. In the meantime maybe wear slippers around the house so it hurts you less when he does bite.

 

Good luck.

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If he keeps it up he does get put into his crate for a time out, usually until we're done doing whatever we were doing, and then he gets to come out and resume play, etc.

 

Just wanted to comment on that. Timeouts have been very helpful with my pup, but make sure you use them properly. You can put the pup in the crate then carry out your task, but a timeout probably shouldn't be used to finish a task (depending on the length of the task). It may seem like a small difference, but I think it is important. A timeout really shouldn't be longer then 5min, ideally it will last about 30sec. You just want the pup to realize that he was removed from play and gets back out once he calms down. If you leave him in there to long for a timeout then he may forget why he was put in the crate. You want the pup to build the connection between the bad behavior and the timeout.

 

There have been occasions when I have to do back to back timeouts with my pup. It's annoying, but it was a more effective learning experience for him. Basically, it was bad behavior->timeout->pup settles->let out of crate->pup repeats bad behavior->back in crate. Eventually the pup goes "oh, so that behavior means I don't get to play".

 

Good luck!

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Just wanted to comment on that. Timeouts have been very helpful with my pup, but make sure you use them properly. You can put the pup in the crate then carry out your task, but a timeout probably shouldn't be used to finish a task (depending on the length of the task). It may seem like a small difference, but I think it is important. A timeout really shouldn't be longer then 5min, ideally it will last about 30sec. You just want the pup to realize that he was removed from play and gets back out once he calms down. If you leave him in there to long for a timeout then he may forget why he was put in the crate. You want the pup to build the connection between the bad behavior and the timeout.

 

There have been occasions when I have to do back to back timeouts with my pup. It's annoying, but it was a more effective learning experience for him. Basically, it was bad behavior->timeout->pup settles->let out of crate->pup repeats bad behavior->back in crate. Eventually the pup goes "oh, so that behavior means I don't get to play".

 

Good luck!

 

On that note, the crate is also not the best place for a time-out. Put him in another room or something instead. You want him to form good associations with his crate. It shouldn't be the crappy place that he gets put when he screws up, it should be the wonderful cozy safe place where he gets toys and treats and curls up at night. You know?

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Great tips, everyone, thanks!

If he's in his crate for timeout it's usually two to five minutes.
He doesn't sleep in his crate at night, he sleeps outside my bedroom door. He doesn't associate his crate with bad things either. He will go in on his own and play with toys, nap, or stash things he finds (that are appropriate) in there. I can't lock him in another room for time-out because he gets into things! Lol.

 

I know whatever approach we take will take time, but we have been doing the same thing for a couple weeks now with no change. Sometimes I will grab his collar and back him up, but he is frisky and dislikes me reaching for his collar. I try to avoid it because then when I do need to grab him for other reasons (safety, loading up in the car, etc.), he wants to run off and thinks it's a game. *Sigh*

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I'm going to sound like a bad person for asking this, but ... whatever happened to solid corrections like a big NO and a swat with a rolled up newspaper?

I mean, one of course must be judicious and careful with that kind of thing, because we don't want to traumatize our dogs. But sometimes I think people have become so precious about corrections that even painful, obnoxious behaviors like must be handled with kid gloves. :unsure: I love my dogs more than life itself, but neither dogs nor children are scarred for life by the occasional non-negotiable NO.

~ Gloria

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Boy, do I know what you're talking about. I've had bruises on my arms, thighs, a hole in the ass of a pair of jeans, holes in the backs of a couple sweaters. Billy is just over 4 months. The ow's weren't working. Got him more excited too. The grabbing the scruff didn't work. He thought I was playing. Finally I got frustrated and was ready and just gave a body block. Probably harder than I should have. He stopped and looked at me for a minute and that was it. he still does try to bite sometimes, but nothing compared to what it was.Good Luck

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Gloria - I definitely agree. I don't think (some) dogs will be any worse for wear with a firm "NO!". I did spank his butt (lightly) this morning when he reached for his puppy pad (which is in a puppy pad holder to deter that! Lol.) My tapping his nose/spanking his butt with a "No!" is certainly not painful, especially when compared to the rough housing he does with my brother's big Lab.

 

Blackeyesue - By body block do you mean a bit of rough shove?

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Yes. It is rough shove. You can use your knee, shoulder, hip, except your hands. Just enough to deter the unwanted behaviour. It works wonders. No words needed. Sometimes words don't work. Billy will get so excited he is literraly bouncing. All four feet in the air hopping. I never saw a dog do that before LOL Reminds me of Tigger from Winnie the Poo. I'm not a big person,,5'1" 106lbs. He was practically at my shoulder. He still puts his mouth on me, but it's very soft. And his adult teeth are coming in now. He's learning. It takes time and patience. Totally worth it.

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I will definitely have to keep that in my back pocket.

He came in from playing outside for a few hours and was being super mouthy, grabbing my sweatshirt and pants so I plopped him in his crate for about a minute, then let him out once he was calm and quiet. He's now down the hall getting ready to nap, so it seemed to have reinforced that the naughty behaviour isn't OK! :) We shall keep it up, along with simultaneously still making his crate a positive place, even if he does have to use it for time outs.

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I'm going to sound like a bad person for asking this, but ... whatever happened to solid corrections like a big NO and a swat with a rolled up newspaper?

 

I mean, one of course must be judicious and careful with that kind of thing, because we don't want to traumatize our dogs. But sometimes I think people have become so precious about corrections that even painful, obnoxious behaviors like must be handled with kid gloves. :unsure: I love my dogs more than life itself, but neither dogs nor children are scarred for life by the occasional non-negotiable NO.

 

~ Gloria

Hear, hear!
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Yep, I'm with Gloria.

 

Keeper tried to nip at my shoes while walking when he was a puppy. That wasn't a horrible problem, but I had the same problem with chewing on blankets. I'd tell him no and he'd just look at me and be right back at it.

 

The best thing for him was a can of coins. Granted, I would NOT!! use this for a dog that's inclined to be sound sensitive and nervous. But for Keeper he needed some shocking event to follow up the "no". So I'd say no and if he didn't respond I'd give a good shake to the can. It would shock him out of it and was just aversive enough to make him consider stopping when I said no. Then of course I'd give him a big reward if I said no or "ah-ah" (My version of "would you please reconsider that behavior?", "No" is a much more serious "you had better never, ever try that again") and he actually stopped the behavior. By the end of the week "No" or "ah-ah" became "If you continue doing what you're doing there will be a not so fun consequence, but if you stop you get a big fat reward".

 

I also kind of preferred that the "No" was followed by some random act of the universe rather than me punishing him. Or at least he could think that. :)

 

I think it's important to teach the concept of "no", and the fact that it can be a very positive word if they do the right action. I try to make it no different that the concept of getting a reward if you sit after I say "sit".

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I just went through this with my 8 month old, Cricket, who I adopted at 4 months. Boy those first two months were rough! She did the feet nipping and mouthing on my hands and arms, jumping and grabbing clothes… What I found worked best for me was a low growly OUCH followed by me leaving the room and shutting the door between us. She did not like it when I left and would usually wait outside the door.

 

It felt like she was never going to stop, but when she was about 6 months, it got a lot better- so hang in there!

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