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Behavior problems - suggestions


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So with just a bit of history first..

 

I've had Marley since she was a puppy. When she was about 4-6 months old she was running up stairs and her leg was caught in-between two stair and broke her leg at her knee. She had to have multiple surgeries to pin/wire, etc her leg back in place. After those surgeries and because of the location of the break she had to be confined to a crate pretty much other than bathroom and being around just me to keep her calm and from jumping (the first time I didn't restrict her enough and she had to have a follow up surgery) for a few months.

 

Before this she was a bit yappy at other people and dogs, but generally a great dog around people and very socialized.

 

After this and around the age of 1 y/o she began to have behavior problems around other people and animals she was not familiar with. Examples below.

 

If a friend comes over my house she flips out, barks like crazy and acts as if she is going to attack them. I know she's afraid with how she's tucking her tail but she (at least to the people who are coming in the house) seems VERY aggressive from their standpoint. If I lock her in another room and she hears the people she will continue to bark..

 

There have been a handful of people who have come over and just ignore her, sitting calmly on the couch and letting her get used to them (takes about 15-30 minutes normally) and after a while she's climbing up in their laps just as if she's known them for a long time.

 

This is pretty bad because most people are afraid of a dog acting in that way, so I tend to keep guests away.. She also does this barking and trying to run towards people (she always stops short, even when not on leash though just standing and barking but seemingly aggressive) when I take her on walks in the neighborhood.

 

The second part is how she is aggressive with other dogs, doing pretty much the same thing - even when muzzled and the other dogs are non-aggressive.

 

She is great with my parents dogs which she was around some when a puppy (one a border collie, and the other a welsh corgi who has since passed away). She always seemed to be more interested and drawn towards the other border collie more and plays a bit rough with him biting and jumping at him when she get's excited but nothing overly aggressive like the rest above.

 

I would like to take care of these problems but really don't know where else to begin. Does anyone know any trainers or people in the MD/DC/VA area's I can talk to or other suggestions?

 

Much appreciated!

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Yup agree your best bet is a behaviourist who uses positive methods of remedial socalisation and desensitisation

 

if they talk about dominance, flooding, punishing or anything like that then run away - fast

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Yup agree your best bet is a behaviourist who uses positive methods of remedial socalisation and desensitisation

 

if they talk about dominance, flooding, punishing or anything like that then run away - fast

 

I will be calling a couple vet's in the area to see who they could recommend. If anyone knows anyone in MD/DC/VA I would appreciate recommendations.

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Generally the initial consult is the priciest, but it also will often last 3 hours or so. Each vet behaviorist is different, some will include bloodwork and other medical checks in the price, some don't. Same with follow up care. You'll want to ask what their fee includes. I've heard rates of between $250 and $400 for the initial appointment, but that was in the midwest and SE vs. east coast.

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I think Jack's consultation with the veterinary behaviorist was about $200. He did require bloodwork as part of the exam but accepted recent results from my regular vet. We had a huge stack of paperwork to fill out on Jack's puppyhood, adulthood, our home, etc. Like Erin said, the appointment lasted 2-3 hours. He prepared a detailed plan of action for Jack's separation anxiety and called in a prescription for Clomicalm. My followup appointments were by telephone. My regular vet received the report also and I now work with her on managing his SA.

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There have been a handful of people who have come over and just ignore her, sitting calmly on the couch and letting her get used to them (takes about 15-30 minutes normally) and after a while she's climbing up in their laps just as if she's known them for a long time.

 

You've been able to figure out the key to what works for her, so this is the only kind of interaction she should be exposed to until she is capable of handling more. I learned from my own reactive dog that when a sitting stranger, around whom he would relax, becomes a standing stranger or a walking stranger, or a stranger that hands me an item, that would cause him to trigger. Anxious dogs need predictability and routine and when the context of the surroundings in which they are comfortable changes, the situation suddenly becomes unpredictable to them.

 

This is pretty bad because most people are afraid of a dog acting in that way, so I tend to keep guests away.. She also does this barking and trying to run towards people (she always stops short, even when not on leash though just standing and barking but seemingly aggressive) when I take her on walks in the neighborhood.

 

 

The reaction you describe is classic fear aggression. She is saying "You're making me feel uncomfortable here-- so back off". I keep my reactive dog safely behind a baby gate in an adjacent room. He can see what's going on but isn't forced into interacting. Guests are asked to ignore him completely until I can read whether or not they are aware enough of his body language and (especially) THEIR OWN to promote a positive encounter. For a while, even this set-up would cause him to trigger (lunge and bark), especially if my guest stood up or walked about from a sitting position. I preempt this now by being proactive. At this point he no longer triggers unless someone walks right up to him, I intervene and ask him to sit and stay and remain calm until the person's movement in his immediate vicinity ceases.

 

I also sought help from a certified vet behaviorist. He was even on psychotropic meds for about 6 months while I addressed his issues. You may want to look into some of the books written my Patricia McConnell and do a search on the boards here for "aggression". Your'e likely to find a wealth of info. Good luck.

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You've been able to figure out the key to what works for her, so this is the only kind of interaction she should be exposed to until she is capable of handling more. I learned from my own reactive dog that when a sitting stranger, around whom he would relax, becomes a standing stranger or a walking stranger, or a stranger that hands me an item, that would cause him to trigger. Anxious dogs need predictability and routine and when the context of the surroundings in which they are comfortable changes, the situation suddenly becomes unpredictable to them.

 

 

The reaction you describe is classic fear aggression. She is saying "You're making me feel uncomfortable here-- so back off". I keep my reactive dog safely behind a baby gate in an adjacent room. He can see what's going on but isn't forced into interacting. Guests are asked to ignore him completely until I can read whether or not they are aware enough of his body language and (especially) THEIR OWN to promote a positive encounter. For a while, even this set-up would cause him to trigger (lunge and bark), especially if my guest stood up or walked about from a sitting position. I preempt this now by being proactive. At this point he no longer triggers unless someone walks right up to him, I intervene and ask him to sit and stay and remain calm until the person's movement in his immediate vicinity ceases.

 

I also sought help from a certified vet behaviorist. He was even on psychotropic meds for about 6 months while I addressed his issues. You may want to look into some of the books written my Patricia McConnell and do a search on the boards here for "aggression". Your'e likely to find a wealth of info. Good luck.

 

This is a great reply.. Sounds almost exactly like Marley. She does the same thing as you say. Going from sitting to standing, to moving about, to hand out, etc causes different responses as she get's used to the stranger.

 

I had not tried the blocking off the kitchen or anything like that yet as my kitchen entrance is much larger than a regular house door so harder to obstruct with a baby gate.

 

I will be contacting a certified vet behaviorist tomorrow and getting the ball rolling but you did give me a few other idea's. Thanks everyone for the help. Hoping the prices here are around the same as some of you above have stated. I can deal with that. :rolleyes:

 

Note: Nancy in AZ - How is your dog doing now after the treatment? Can people ring the doorbell/knock at the door/walk in and around him without him going off like he used to? How long did it take for him to get to this point?

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It's hard to say how long it took because it has been a progression, and the progress isn't necessarily a straight line upward. There have been set backs. I had unfortunately sought help from someone who was entirely unqualified, and set him back tremendously, before finding a vet behaviorist about 60 miles from me.

 

Boo is vastly improved, but, even so, HE is easier to train than most of the PEOPLE that may elicit a reaction, so I seldom allow interaction with strangers. There are some individuals who are dog savvy enough and aware enough of their own body language, and presence, to prevent an escalation of anxiety. He is very loving to people once he gets to know them.

 

If I were in your shoes (and I have been) I would discontinue any interaction between Marley and those with whom she is unfamiliar, at least until you have enough experience with reading body language of both dogs and people to intuit how she's feeling about situations. She could escalate from mere posturing to a nip or bite in the blink of an eye.

 

You are just now taking the first step in a learning curve. The best solution until you are in a better position to comprehend and evaluate your dog's issues is simple avoidance and then a slow introduction under very controlled circumstances.

 

I have accustomed Boo to wearing a muzzle. It enables me to be at ease when he's in situations where not all variables are under my control. Our last trip to a new vet for his vaccinations went just fine. I put his muzzle on in the waiting room. He received very positive attention from the vet techs and the vet was great. Boo was nervous, but not reactive. The more positive interactions he experiences, the easier and more ingrained the progress is likely to be.

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It's hard to say how long it took because it has been a progression, and the progress isn't necessarily a straight line upward. There have been set backs. I had unfortunately sought help from someone who was entirely unqualified, and set him back tremendously, before finding a vet behaviorist about 60 miles from me.

 

Boo is vastly improved, but, even so, HE is easier to train than most of the PEOPLE that may elicit a reaction, so I seldom allow interaction with strangers. There are some individuals who are dog savvy enough and aware enough of their own body language, and presence, to prevent an escalation of anxiety. He is very loving to people once he gets to know them.

 

If I were in your shoes (and I have been) I would discontinue any interaction between Marley and those with whom she is unfamiliar, at least until you have enough experience with reading body language of both dogs and people to intuit how she's feeling about situations. She could escalate from mere posturing to a nip or bite in the blink of an eye.

 

You are just now taking the first step in a learning curve. The best solution until you are in a better position to comprehend and evaluate your dog's issues is simple avoidance and then a slow introduction under very controlled circumstances.

 

I have accustomed Boo to wearing a muzzle. It enables me to be at ease when he's in situations where not all variables are under my control. Our last trip to a new vet for his vaccinations went just fine. I put his muzzle on in the waiting room. He received very positive attention from the vet techs and the vet was great. Boo was nervous, but not reactive. The more positive interactions he experiences, the easier and more ingrained the progress is likely to be.

 

You know, it's crazy.. It almost sounds like you are talking about Marley when you say everything you do.

 

I don't have strangers come over right now as it is, or I put her in my bedroom while they are here.

 

I have had family (extended family) come over, and as long as they are females, Marley seems fine with them. She may bark at them when they first come in, but after just a few seconds she is fine. It's mostly males she doesn't like. Little kids the same way, she just completely ignores them or will bark once or twice then never pays attention to them again.

 

Normally I only allow people who have been around animals for a while around her, and introduce them in the way I spoke about before. Having them come into the house while she is in my bedroom and sit on the couch. I will then bring her downstairs and have her sniff them and get used to them. Eventually she will act her normal loving self and start trying to climb into their laps to get petted. From that point on, she acts with them just as she does with my and my girlfriend.

 

She also had a recent visit with the vet who I warned about her aggression, although she was fine with him just a little apprehensive (those eye's staring watching everything he does). She did have a little growling with another border collie in the front office when a woman brought her dog in without a leash.. ugh..

 

I hope for the day soon when I can take her for walks around other people/dogs without her going ballistic. :rolleyes:

 

We did recently introduce her with a new puppy, Toby who is a yorkshire terrier she has been pretty good with him although we keep a very close eye on her with him and have a gate/square that the puppy plays in while we can't completely supervise the two interacting - it's open so Marley can sniff and watch/smell and get used to the puppy.

 

Surprisingly enough, Marley never barked or acted mean towards the pup even once when we first brought him home. She has only let out a small growl when Toby started eating her food. I'll always be feeding them separately in different parts of the house..

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Hi there,

 

Well done on asking for help and suggestions, the quicker the better!

 

I am a reactive dog owner and my dog is almost exactly the same as the way you describe your dog. I have now been working on desensitizing, lots of clicker work (click to calm) and keeping him away from any and all strangers unless I am working him in a CONTROLLED environment!

 

Learn about calming signals and reward your dog for using them!

 

Don't be fooled by some trainers, only work with someone who you feel comfortable with and always STOP a training session when it's going well, don't push your dog and set him up to fail! Please remember to only use positive reinforcement / training for everything!!!

 

Educate yourself, please please please!!! You are responsible for your dogs well being, including emotional well being - make sure you don't push her into situations when she is not ready!

 

When travelling in the car, keep her in the crate and keep it covered, so she doesn't need to bother with the outside world and give her a chewie to keep her busy.

 

Also join a reactive dog group site which is my life saver and kept me sane, it's a yahoo group: Pos_4_reactive_dogs (go find it!)

 

Recently I had a seminar with a excellent trainer and my boy did fantastic, he is now offering the behaviours, I used alot of CU work, the "look at that" game and targeting, he was targeting a prostetic hand with a wagging tail and calm behaviour. We were happily weaving around people he didn't know without a worry, this takes time and patience, your dog will reward you in the end, believe me. We still have alot of work to do but we are on the way to happily seeing a stranger approach us head on.

 

Good Luck!!!!

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From the list provided above - I know my vet in NoVA recommend Marsha Reich for us to see for my bc's fear issues. We never actually made an appt because I was laid off work and could not afford it at the time.

 

My vets thought Reich was awesome though.

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