Edward Scissorhead

[powerfulgazelle]

Both of the guys walk on Gentle Leaders most of the time.

 

Sometimes, the guys walk on one leash with a splitter, usually when DH is home by himself during the day with them.

 

I prefer a 6 ft flat nylon leash with the extra "traffic lead" handle near the dog's collar end, for those situations when one of the dogs (Kip) has a freak out about something---motorcycle, skateboarder, whatever.

 

But, there's Sollers, better known as Edward Scissorhead.

 

Sollers has begun to move past his "MUST. CHEW. EVERYTHING." stage. Finally.

 

But, the one thing he just cannot resist shredding: Leashes. So after purchasing what feels like nearly a house payment's worth of 6 ft traffic lead nylon leash replacements, we finally bought Edward Scissorhead a light chain leash, just so he couldn't chew it. Usually he does the deed while the guys are in the back of the car going someplace with us. 15 min ride to the park? One leash. 5 mins to Grandma's? One splitter. He saws right thru the things...cuts them clean. More than once, I have opened the hatch to get them out, grabbed the leashes, and whoops! One of the dogs is no longer attached. Often it is Kip who is loose, which is a disaster, because Kip runs like the wind. Lately it has been Sollers' own leash he has been devouring en route, but at least I can catch him.

 

Last night, it was Kip's WEEK OLD replacement leash, on the way to the park and the splitter on the way home.

 

I am worried about having them totally off leash in the back of the car, cause when I open the hatch, the tailgate is not tall enough to contain them, esp Kip, if he sees something to chase.

 

The chain leash tears my hands up. Are there any good solutions in terms of other types of leashes? Bitter apple spray on a leash helpful?

[Kayleegator]

I'll be watching this thread, too. The Kayleegator saws through the chest band of her Easy Walk harness when she's left alone in the car: just did it for the third time in two months. DH sewed it back together the first two times, but now she needs a new one. On leash, she pulls like a Malamute without it. We did soak it in Bitter Apple, but I guess that wore off: re-apply weekly?

 

Good luck with the Scissorhead: such a visual!

[Jack & Co.]

Lupine guarantees their leashes for everything, even chewing.

 

http://www.lupinepet.com/

 

ETA: Some of them come with a padded handle.

[Rave]

Why are they left with access to the leashes if they're chewing them? If the dogs are loose in the car while riding (bad idea BTW, very unsafe), then teach them to wait while you open the car door until you can leash them. Problem solved. If you need help training that, just ask, I'm sure you'll get plenty of help.

[Rebecca, Irena Farm]

I'm not going to be real helpful here, but first: "Edward Scissorhead" <---- rofl!

 

I'm afraid if your dog has reached the "instant slice" stage, it's not a habit he'll get out of easily. In fact, be warned - from leashes he'll be advancing to seat belts very soon!!! Depending on the style of your vehicle's interior, your upholstery might be in danger too. A crate may be in order if you spend a lot of time on the road with him. Trust me on this one. My Suburban is a six passenger vehicle instead of a seven passenger one because of a rescue who dissected the front passenger belt. This is particularly annoying because we got the Suburban versus the smaller and somewhat more agile (and gas efficient) Tahoe, so we could maximize both its passenger and cargo-carrying potential - but the maximum cargo we can carry along with the kids, is now no more than a Tahoe.

 

I'm really afraid you are stuck with chain leashes with him. It might be time to really focus on loose leash walking! I use chains on all my dogs - I like the fact that they'll never learn to mouth the leash, and a light chain drops in the pocket much more compactly than a leash (though admittedly it's a heavier load ).

[juliepoudrier]

I agree with Rave on the riding loose issue, though I understand why some people do it.

 

I know someone who makes leashes out of plastic coated cable. He puts a clear piece of plastic tubing on the handle to add cushioning. It also has a snap on each end so the dog can be tied out at sheepdog trials. I did a quick Google search, and the closest thing I could find was this very short cable leash. But the idea is the same. The plastic coating over the cable makes the leash easy on your hands. You could probably go to a hardware store and buy the cable and necessary clips and snaps to assemble your own. You could even make couplers out of cable.

 

J.

[Ninso]

My dog rides loose in the car because I have no other option . . . I have a small 2-door sports car purchased pre-dog (and with the price of gas wouldn't want to have anything else right now). But from day-1 my dog has learned that he must wait until I release him to get out of the car. If your dogs have a "wait" command (or a stay), just use that and have them wait for a second or so before jumping out. Gradually increase the wait time. Eventually, it will become a habit and you won't have to use the command. You will probably want to train this individually and at a not-terribly-exciting place at first. I would be more worried about the bolting dog issue than the leash shredding issue . . . so dangerous!

[JohnLloydJones]

I learned pretty soon that Senneca can slice a normal leash in blink of the eye. I am always amazed how cleanly she does it. Now, I never leave her leashed, but unattended -- not for one second. She's sly and fast.

[nancy]

Yes, I second and third the recommendation to go with Lupine!

 

My brother lives near their place in New Hampshire. When their third or fourth dog that inherited a Lupine collar finally chewed it, Al took it to Lupine. As a joke. The collar was older than most people who buy them. And he's way up north so the thing had been worn in snow and sleet and other assorted yucky weather.

 

They gave him a new collar!

 

So get Lupine. Then, if the leash does get chewed, you're definitely covered.

[juliepoudrier]

I think the problem with using Lupine leashes is that you still are going through a lot of leashes, have to get the replacement leash, etc. Better to find something that can't be chewed and then once "Edward" is past this particular chewing stage invest in some Lupines. JMO.

 

J.

[Sue R]

I'm not sure but I was thinking that Dan King might make those cable leashes for his dogs. I don't know if he'd make one for Edward but you could try sending him a PM through these boards.

 

I'm will those who say to put those things where Edward can't get at them and make sure he doesn't start on seat belts. Can you give himself something else to occupy his mouth if you are not going to crate him?

 

As for leaving a no-pull harness on a dog, never leave one on any dog when you are not walking it. They are easily chewed and, worse yet, a dog can get a jaw stuck under the strap on one. They are strictly made for leash walking and never for unsupervised wearing.

 

Best wishes!

[painted_ponies]

My Violet has chewed through a plastic coated cable tie-out. It took her a few weeks to do it, but she only got to work on it for an hour or so once a week.

 

The first time I took her to my trainer's farm to work sheep, Violet naturally scissored right through the leash I tied her with. It was a Lupine and yes, they did replace it. Anyway, Bob told me about plastic coated cable, so I went to TSC and bought some.

 

Then one day a few weeks later, I looked up to see a familiar black-and-white blur motoring for the sheep. When I caught her, she still had about six inches of cable fastened to her collar by the clasp.

 

I was reminded of Capt. Quint's line in Jaws "Seen one eat a rockin' chair once."

[bcnewe2]

How bout taking the leashes off in the car and then when you arrive at your destination putting them back on before ever opening a door?

 

My dogs ride loose in my car. It's a Ford Focus and I can barely fit us muchless a crate. I barely have room for a backback or suite case, dog food, and dog water in the way back (it's a hatchback) I just can't fit a crate in there too. All my dogs ride laying down in the seats. There is enough room for one dog on the floor if one chooses to get on it but they are not allowed to move about the car while in route. I guess I'm lucky. Mick is the fun and car police. Everybody has to lay in their respective spots and not move or he gets all bent out of shape. He rides shotgun and only moves to change the direction he's laying in on long drives. I guess he does allow the others to do the same but no way could anyone try to stick their heads out the windows, or poke their nose up front. He'd have a kaniption fit! If he's not in the car, no one knows any different so they just do what they always do!

 

I've suprised a few drive throughs and the bank is always laughing at us. They are always shocked when they find 4 dogs lying down not moving when I get to the window.

 

Kristen

[powerfulgazelle]

Why are they left with access to the leashes if they're chewing them? If the dogs are loose in the car while riding (bad idea BTW, very unsafe), then teach them to wait while you open the car door until you can leash them. Problem solved. If you need help training that, just ask, I'm sure you'll get plenty of help.

 

The dogs are "loose" in the cargo compartment of my small size SUV, because the state I live in has carseat/seatbelt laws for human children, so it seems somehow wrong to put the dogs in the seats while my son and daughter are in the cargo area. And, no, the back is too small for people in seats + crates, unfortunately.

 

As to training, Sollers is an 8 mos old pup who is learning, but not perfect on his "wait" yet. We adopted him in December, so I am willing to give training more time. Kip is a 1.5 yr old rescue who was pulled from the dog warden/pound in February, who has an unknown history and is turning out to have a few issues with being an escape artist, usually related to prey drive/chasing. Again, having only had him 8 weeks so far, I am willing to give myself and the dog a little permission not to be perfect yet.

 

I think I explained why I am a little uncomfortable having them unleashed while we are still working on training issues/impulsivity. I imagine it would be cold comfort at the emergency vet should one of them (Kip) bolt in reaction to a squirrel/motorbike when the back hatch is opened at the park and get hit by a car to tell myself, "Damn! Why didn't I train them FASTER?!". A leash seems like a reasonable interim measure until the dog is reliable OFF LEASH. The eldest backseat passenger (my son) does make it his work to monitor the leash situation...but, last night, Sol chewed thru Kip's leash out of sight/out of reach for DS. And, no there are no seatbelts he can get to in the back without standing up on his hindlegs, which would attract the attention of the human passengers. Thank goodness. Have thought about keeping two light chain leashes in the car, just for car rides, esp given the score of "Sollers 10, Leashes 0" so far...

 

And, yes, the guys always ride with something appropriate to chew on, in hopes that Edward Scissorhead/Sollers will find the leash less attractive. Kip, however, is the only one who will actually chew a bone/chew toy in the back. Sol will occasionally nibble a pig ear en route, but really seems to prefer leashes.

 

I will check out the leash info...

[Shetlander]

The dogs are "loose" in the cargo compartment of my small size SUV, because the state I live in has carseat/seatbelt laws for human children, so it seems somehow wrong to put the dogs in the seats while my son and daughter are in the cargo area. And, no, the back is too small for people in seats + crates, unfortunately.

 

Two thoughts: Use chain leashes only while in the car, if you don't like them for use while out with the dogs. When you get to your destination, clip on the leather/nylon leash and take off the chain in such a way that the dog is always leashed.

 

Or... don't leash them in the car, but when you're ready to take them out, leash them up by reaching over the cargo area from the back seat. Unless you have a barrier up, I guess.

 

Ok, three thoughts... While training isn't the immediate answer, it is the long term solution. I'd really work on training the dog to wait for a release, first with one dog in increasingly exciting situations, then with all of them. Quinn's never been an escape artist the way you describe Kip, but he is fast and I still make him wait for a release, even when we're in the garage and if he jumps out without the word from me, we practice waiting for a release. He's the first dog I've made such a deal about this but it is a very nice skill for him to have.

[Sue R]

If your son is old enough, could he turn around, reach over the seat back, and leash the dogs when you get to your destination, while you wait to open the hatch? He could then pass the ends of the leashes to you so that there is no easy opportunity for them to be unrestrained and get loose. That's a somewhat similar idea to one of Liz's suggestions. And, of course, keep up the training.

 

I am grateful that you are providing these two dogs with a loving and caring home. Best wishes!

[powerfulgazelle]

If your son is old enough, could he turn around, reach over the seat back, and leash the dogs when you get to your destination, while you wait to open the hatch? He could then pass the ends of the leashes to you so that there is no easy opportunity for them to be unrestrained and get loose. That's a somewhat similar idea to one of Liz's suggestions. And, of course, keep up the training.

 

I am grateful that you are providing these two dogs with a loving and caring home. Best wishes!

 

 

Thanks. We do try to do the "leash dance" when getting out, most times. Kip is our speedy escape artist...the one who bolted downstairs, thru the living room, and leapt over Sol's back, pushing past my DH, and thru the approx 18 in gap in the newly-opened front, leading us a frantic chase thru our city neighborhood/traffic the first night we had him home....so I worry about him even in the most controlled settings. His recall/lie down isn't BAD, even at a distance, but it is not where it needs to be yet, and he does suffer from Selective Border Collie Deafness when cats, squirrels and motorbikes are involved.

 

Sollers, the goofball, when he has chewed his own leash, just hops out, bounces a round a minute, lets me catch him and is fine. Annoying, but fine. Kip's the one I fear will be road pizza off leash until his training progresses some more, esp around distractions.

[Rebecca, Irena Farm]

I'm still trying to get my head around this. I train the dogs not to bolt out of the crate when the door is opened at home. It takes, like, five minutes.

 

I carried dogs in crates in the back seat of a two door sports car for several months. I now have the "luxury" of doing the same with a four door 1984 Volvo 240 DL (that's about the size of a Corolla if you are not a Volvo geek). That means I can actually use a crate long ways instead of the borrowed side-door crate I had in the sport Corolla.

 

So here's what comes to mind, and any one out there can call me "cruel" and evil for suggesting such a thing. But, why don't you get a crate with the side door and set it up in the back? I know, you'll have to put two dogs in one crate. But you are doing exactly that when you put two dogs in the cargo space, yes? They'll have about six inches one way, and maybe four in the other direction, less space.

 

Then when you arrive at your destination, there's no pressure on any child to engage in the musical leash game (on which the life of your dog depends, by your own admission - I never make my children responsible to that degree). You walk confidently to the back, pop the hatch, tie your shoe, pick up leashes, water dishes, whatever else at your leisure. You open the crate and call the "bad" dog, who runs off, but who also doesn't chew leashes. Clip the leash on him and tell him okay. If Sollers pops out it's okay, right? If not, put his leash on and tell him okay.

 

If you have a squirrel-related emergency, it's much easier to slam a crate door shut than it is to grab the hatch and get it down quick. It's also easier to train the crate-stay - if they make a move for the door without permission, you just close it in their face. Like I said, it takes all of five minutes for them to learn enough impulse control to make the squirrel emergency much less likely.

 

A side benefit of crating Kip might be to make him less reactive, as he won't spend the whole trip looking out the window and getting in a lather over stuff he sees. The stress is likely, in fact, to be what is triggering the chewing. All the seat belt chewers and leash chewers and upholstery chewers I ever had did it out of frustration - they were the quiet stressers. They'd just sit quietly and chew something, or gnaw on themselves, or mentally wind themselves up until they cut loose.

 

Well, good luck.

[BustopherJones]

Lupine products are also available through KV Vet Supply: Lupine Products - KV Vet Supply

[powerfulgazelle]

I'm still trying to get my head around this. I train the dogs not to bolt out of the crate when the door is opened at home. It takes, like, five minutes.

 

I carried dogs in crates in the back seat of a two door sports car for several months. I now have the "luxury" of doing the same with a four door 1984 Volvo 240 DL (that's about the size of a Corolla if you are not a Volvo geek). That means I can actually use a crate long ways instead of the borrowed side-door crate I had in the sport Corolla.

 

So here's what comes to mind, and any one out there can call me "cruel" and evil for suggesting such a thing. But, why don't you get a crate with the side door and set it up in the back? I know, you'll have to put two dogs in one crate. But you are doing exactly that when you put two dogs in the cargo space, yes? They'll have about six inches one way, and maybe four in the other direction, less space.

 

Then when you arrive at your destination, there's no pressure on any child to engage in the musical leash game (on which the life of your dog depends, by your own admission - I never make my children responsible to that degree). You walk confidently to the back, pop the hatch, tie your shoe, pick up leashes, water dishes, whatever else at your leisure. You open the crate and call the "bad" dog, who runs off, but who also doesn't chew leashes. Clip the leash on him and tell him okay. If Sollers pops out it's okay, right? If not, put his leash on and tell him okay.

 

If you have a squirrel-related emergency, it's much easier to slam a crate door shut than it is to grab the hatch and get it down quick. It's also easier to train the crate-stay - if they make a move for the door without permission, you just close it in their face. Like I said, it takes all of five minutes for them to learn enough impulse control to make the squirrel emergency much less likely.

 

A side benefit of crating Kip might be to make him less reactive, as he won't spend the whole trip looking out the window and getting in a lather over stuff he sees. The stress is likely, in fact, to be what is triggering the chewing. All the seat belt chewers and leash chewers and upholstery chewers I ever had did it out of frustration - they were the quiet stressers. They'd just sit quietly and chew something, or gnaw on themselves, or mentally wind themselves up until they cut loose.

 

Well, good luck.

 

 

Hey, thanks---I had not thought of a sideways-facing-crate! (Talk about not thinking "out of the box"! ) I may give that a shot.

 

As far as making my son (who is 13.5) responsible, no; I do ask him to turn around and hold onto leashes while I open the back for the dogs, then I take the leashes (assuming they are intact! ) There are days I think a crate or a leash might be a good idea for my 5 yr old DD, who also bolts out of carseats and cars as fast as she can unhook herself! And the guys are really quite good about "Wait" at the crate door at home, street crossings, etc. Kip still worries me when we open the front door at home if I don't have a hand on his collar (big squirrel population in the oak trees, busy street, and a Honda motorcycle shop a block away...the riders use our nice straight, 30 mph street as a test drive course to open the bikes up and see how fast they'll go). The park is such a Pandora's box of temptation---all his triggers are certainly there.

 

Kip's reactivity is fairly specific: Bully breeds and Bassets = barkbarkbarkbark + spinspinspinspin. Squirrels, motorbikes, bikes, skateboarders and other zooming things = Instant-on chase and deaf to commands...think slingshot. Runners = barkbarkbarkbark. Cats and tiny toy breed dogs (who don't look very canine) = The Amazing Border Collie Laser Vision Unblinking Stare + crouch + stalk. (Kip has come to truce with our cat, who is 25 lbs or so and fully clawed and very dog savvy/tolerant. He stares unfailingly at Bloomberg, but can lie on our bed 3 inches from him, staring a hole thru the cat, without doing anything else if he is supervised and told "Leave. The. Cat.". Of course, we supervise them, and Cat always has an escape route/dog-free zone to get to. We have so far been able to ameliorate what ELSE Kip does while staring at our cat, but not able to switch off The Stare. The cat just rolls over and turns his back when he is tired of being stared at, but does not get up and leave until he's good and ready.)

 

Sollers' chewing has diminished quite a bit. Leashes do still seem to be his weakness, but it doesn't have the flavor of "stress", just puppyish toothgnashing. Kip has never been a chewer since being with us.

 

Thanks for the sideways crate idea...I may be measuring up the back of the vehicle tonight!

[Jack & Co.]

As far as making my son (who is 13.5) responsible, no; I do ask him to turn around and hold onto leashes while I open the back for the dogs, then I take the leashes (assuming they are intact! ) There are days I think a crate or a leash might be a good idea for my 5 yr old DD, who also bolts out of carseats and cars as fast as she can unhook herself!

 

Powerfulgazelle, your son is in middle school and he could be a great help to you with the dogs if you help him learn how. He's about the same age as my youngest son was when we got Jack. When I did Puppy First Grade with Jack, I would show the whole family what we learned and give everyone a chance to practice with him. Now that they are 16 and 18 and driving, they are often called upon to pick him up from Doggy Daycare so they must be in control of him and Jack must mind them. They like to do things with him also, so they have to be clear on how to manage him. Let your son be the leash person and add to his doggy responsibilities which will help you out in the end.

[donna frankland (uk)]

first up, i highly reccommend the side door crate suggestion, cos it also means that if ever you were to be stuck at the side of the road for any reason, you can pop the hatch and keep your dogs cool and safe

however, leash chewing is still hideously annoying, even if it isnt life or death!

could you get a really cheap leash and soak it in mustard or something else really foul tasting but harmless? he might work out then that chewing leashes is just plain nasty!

[powerfulgazelle]

Powerfulgazelle, your son is in middle school and he could be a great help to you with the dogs if you help him learn how. He's about the same age as my youngest son was when we got Jack. When I did Puppy First Grade with Jack, I would show the whole family what we learned and give everyone a chance to practice with him. Now that they are 16 and 18 and driving, they are often called upon to pick him up from Doggy Daycare so they must be in control of him and Jack must mind them. They like to do things with him also, so they have to be clear on how to manage him. Let your son be the leash person and add to his doggy responsibilities which will help you out in the end.

 

Yep! DS does work with the dogs daily (walks, feeding, playing)...I just meant I am not making him accountable 100% for the safety of the dog as far as them bolting from the car---like it is on his shoulders. He is asked to be the "leash minder" when we stop.

 

Now that they are 16 and 18 and driving

 

Oy. Although he is a sensible, responsible lad, I freely admit that the thought of that learner's permit in 2.5 short years makes my mother's heart quake!

[Jack & Co.]

Yep! DS does work with the dogs daily (walks, feeding, playing)...I just meant I am not making him accountable 100% for the safety of the dog as far as them bolting from the car---like it is on his shoulders. He is asked to be the "leash minder" when we stop.

 

Now that they are 16 and 18 and driving

 

Oy. Although he is a sensible, responsible lad, I freely admit that the thought of that learner's permit in 2.5 short years makes my mother's heart quake!

 

Sensible and responsible is the perfect combination for a good, safe teenage driver. Once he is able to pry the car keys out of your hand, you will love never having to run to the store for the forgotten gallon of milk again! When I broke my leg in January, my boys were awesome shoppers and errand runners. (Way better shoppers than DH!)

 

Boys are wonderful! You will really enjoy him as a teenager---very little drama and pretty smooth sailing for the most part. My friends with daughters tell me the teenage girl years are quite the rollercoaster ride!

 

Sorry to hijack!