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juliepoudrier

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Everything posted by juliepoudrier

  1. I can't add any more, really, so I'll just say ditto to what everyone else has said. Get the hell away from that trainer. I'd probably go one step further and tell the trainer exactly WHY I'm dumping him/her, not that it will necessarily change their training philosophy, but you never know.... J.
  2. Is the heartbeat suppression dose dependent? That is, is the risk in overdosing? J.
  3. I like Facebook because it's an easy way to keep up with the activities of family and friends, and to reconnect with old friends. How much you allow it to intrude on your life is entirely up to you. J.
  4. My neighbor used it (Sileo) with her very fit agility border collie who is so thunderphobic as to practicality try to kill herself to escape the noise. She had used Sileo all weekend for the fireworks and we gave her dog a dose last night before the big storm (owner traveling) we had and she's a different dog. She is giving slightly less than the recommended amount for her dog's size. I intend to try it on my youngster who is thunderphobic, I've been that impressed with her results. J.
  5. My neighbor is trying the Sileo with her one dog that is extremely thunderphobic. Today is her first try and her dog is barely reacting at all, basically came downstairs briefly when she heard thunder, then went back upstairs and got on the bed. Granted, the storms are skirting us, but if it works as well as it seems to be so far for her it'll be a life changer for her dog. J.
  6. My old Boy was on proin the last couple of years of his life. It worked just fine for him, no noticeable side effects. J.
  7. I use flanking exercises to help improve my young dogs' stops. I will randomly flank them, asking for (off balance) stops around the circle. They are required to stay on the correct path of the flank, and the second they stop, they're immediately flanked (same or opposite direction). This combines several training items: proofing flanks, making sure they don't spiral in or out on a flank, and crisper stops because they know stop isn't the "end," but often just a prelude to another flank. It can also help with the tendency to clappiness because the dog will anticipate being asked to move again quickly once stopped, J.
  8. They did this at Rural Hill, NC, but I would have said 2010. Maybe it was later. Alison Ruhe was collecting blood and Suzy Hughes was doing BAER testing. At the time I had all my dogs BAER tested, and several also gave blood. Because I had epileptics in a litter that was more my focus, but my understanding was that the blood would be used for DNA for both studies (epilepsy and EOAD). So I wonder if it makes any sense to donate yet more DNA samples from those same dogs. Alison told me that they sequenced Phoebe's genome (I guess because I could provide samples from so many relatives, affected and not). I have younger dogs who have not been tested, but can I assume the dogs previously tested are already "in" the study? Anyone know? J.
  9. I would think affected is affected, no matter the dog's point of origin. J.
  10. Liz, That's why I said it takes deep knowledge (and mentioned shepherds, rather than trialers). I don't think anyone else would interpret what I wrote as meaning I was including any sort of novice breeder. J.
  11. You can get insulin syringes without needles. That's what I use. J.
  12. If you talk to old time breeders/shepherds they will mention dogs and bitches who were/are good *producers* although they may not be the *best* workers/trial dogs. Of course it takes deep knowledge of lines and individual dogs--as well as a willingness to test one's ideas--to make these sorts of breeding decisions, but it is an example of a standard practice that does NOT involve breeding the best to the best. And I don't think it's all that rare. J.
  13. I use the 0.08% sheep drench at a dose of 0.3-0.5 cc/dog, depending on the size of the dog. I don't use the minimum effective dose because the amounts are so small and it apparently tastes bad so you don't want to dog missing a dose by managing to spit/slobber it back out. I use the same insulin syringe over and over until the rubber starts to fail. I just pour out a capful of ivermectin, then draw from that, not so much because of contamination, but for ease of drawing up the dose. But a capful holds enough to treat all 8 dogs. You can get a small bottle, which you still won't be able to use up before it expires, but art least it's pretty inexpensive. I'd hesitate to regularly overdose ivermectin by a great amount. To control intestinal parasites I dose with Safeguard (fenbendazole) 10% cattle dewormer quarterly, or as needed. J.
  14. I also agree with going the rescue route it at all possible. FWIW, when my now 14.5 year old was a young dog running in nursery, one of the dogs competing against her had had surgery on both hips, I think FHO, but I don't remember. That young dog was running a full open level sheepdog trial course after surgery on both hips. I also had an open trial dog who didn't have any noticeable issues from her terrible hips until she was quite old, 13-14 or so. Clearly she won't make a service dog for you, but she still might make a great pet for someone else. As for the Berner doodle, honestly, I'd keep looking if I were you. Bernese mountain dogs aren't known to be long lived and the ones I've known have died quite young from various genetic issues. The fact that it's a cross might make a difference in that regard and it might not. Depending on how large a dog you need, I'd consider something along the lines of a field bred lab or similar--at least a breed that's not known for genetic issues that can be quite expensive to treat and that can affect longevity. The last thing you need is to put a bunch of time and effort into another prospect only for it to develop something and be unable to do what you need as well. J.
  15. Red is recessive, so a red dog bred to a black dog won't produce any red dogs unless the black dog also happens to carry recessive red (Bb vs BB). Merle is dominant, so the red merle could pass on his merle gene to produce merle puppies, but if the dam didn't carry red there would have been no way for red merle pups to have been produced. J.
  16. If it's dragging severely enough, Jester could damage (e.g., develop sores) on the part of his foot that he's dragging. I had to put a boot on Kat to prevent damage to the top of her foot; the speed at which she wore through the canvas/leather was rather astounding. So keep an eye on his foot/toes to make sure he's not getting raw places. J.
  17. I find it odd that they'd say it was too late, unless the cut was too wide to stitch together. Generally even with old wounds, given an appropriate amount of skin to be able to draw the edges together, the vet could cut away the old tissue to expose new tissue and then stitch that. It's possible the cut in your dog's foot was too wide/deep to do that with. Have you asked your vet this question? S/he would be the best one to answer, having seen the actual injury. J.
  18. I think there's a lot more mechanical training out there than some may think. You can find examples on YouTube and from well-known handlers. One example: the dog is fetching to the handler in a training situation and a sheep breaks off to one side and the dog does nothing until the handler gives it a flank whistle to cover. If I were charitable, I'd say the handler is just quicker to handle the situation than the dog was, but I would want the dog to automatically cover without me having to tell it to do so and I think the dog has been taught to wait for instruction from the handler (deliberately or not <-- this latter being perhaps the result of a handler pushing the dog to a certain trial level as quickly as possible and so taking away the dog's initiative in order to control the situation). Another example that I see a lot at set out is the dog who gets to the top and then waits to be told what to do. The dog literally leans around the sheep to look down the field, waiting for a command from the handler. The gather should be natural in these dogs; no dog should stop at the top and wait to be told what to do. For me, this is another example of a likely mechanically trained dog. That's just a couple of examples, but I think they illustrate dogs that have been trained mechanically. The dog no longer easily thinks or reacts for itself but instead waits for the handler to tell it what to do. I don't think this is only the province of the AKC/arena trial world. I've worked with too many dogs who have been trained that way to believe that. J.
  19. We generally take weaned lambs and break them (using fully trained dogs) to be our training sheep for the year. The problems with lambs by themselves is they are leaderless and so are reactive and silly. If you put just one older sheep with them, they will follow that sheep (in general; you'll still get some lamb silliness but not to the point of killing themselves running into fences and the like). It's actually a very easy way to dog break them. Ours get used to being worked by dogs early on because we need to be able to move their moms. The dogs pretty much will ignore the lambs that come up to them out of curiosity, but as time goes on and the lambs get some age on them (usually around a month old or so) the dogs begin to treat them more like sheep. Individual ewes vary in their protectiveness or aggression toward dogs. I used to have a Scottish blackface ewe that would cross an entire field to go after a dog when she had a lamb at her side. Some of my more docile sheep will just turn and go no matter what, and then there's the entire spectrum in between. We have a tunis ewe right now who if the dog pushes in too close is going to stand and fight. But if the dog bumps her bubble then stops, she will turn and walk off with her lambs. This is where knowing your sheep, or being able to read them, can be invaluable. You can get ewes and their lambs moved without setting up big fights. I was able to move that Tunis ewe even with one of my youngsters simply by strategically asking her up and lying her down at the right moments so that the ewe never felt a need to challenge her. I have also found that breed characteristics can affect how soon, if ever, lambs will become less flighty. Although working lambs alone can be a good challenge for a more experienced dog, I try to keep their stress to a minimum, so if the lambs are running and breaking a lot, I will usually try to find an older adult to put in with them. It reduces stress that is inherent with weaning and also makes for fewer problems when dog breaking the lambs away from their mamas. Jovi, The sheep being used for the clinic this weekend will be last year's lambs (now yearlings). Since we don't breed in their first season, the lambs earn their keep by being worked by dogs. They will be mixed in with this year's weaned lambs to become the working flock for this year. In the fall, last year's lambs (now 18 months old) will be pulled out for breeding and the lambs, which will be roughly 6 months old and pretty used to being worked by dogs, though still rather lamblike, will be the training flock through breeding and lambing next spring. It's an easy way to have a new supply of fresh sheep. We keep a small group of goats for starting the very beginner dogs. J.
  20. Lawgirl, Again, I am talking about working dogs in the United States, not Australia. The situation could be very different in your country. But the OP is here in the U.S. and said she was looking for an ee red working dog here. I don't think she'll find one. Here in the U.S., at least at the trials I've been to, I have not seen an ee red dog, not at any level, from novice to open. I'm referring to USBCHA type trials. I imagine you could see them at AKC trials since the color is selected for by breeders of KC type dogs. But I and most other people who raise stock and work dogs don't consider conformation dogs to be working bred. Not now. Not ever.
  21. Tommy, FWIW, merles don't just "pop up." Merle is dominant, so if there's a gene for merle the dog would be merle. Red (liver) and Australian red are both recessive and so could pop up, skipping generations. And I went back and looked at the BC Museum page on Australian red border collies. I think there were two dogs on there that were said to work, a distinct minority, and I don't think either was known to be purebred. Most of the dogs pictured were in fact from Australia (with a couple from the UK), and many of the others were found or shelter dogs of unknown heritage. I don't think anything on that page serves to dispute my comments about ee reds not being found in the working dog population in the U.S. J.
  22. I assumed we were talking about the US, since the OP mentioned moving to Idaho and looking for an ee red dog. She's unlikely to find an ee red working dog here in the states. J.
  23. My two cents: whenever one tells a story they should consider the message that might be received by the reader. Maybe anyone who reads Alfreda's story and thinks, "Hey, I bet Spot could do that too, the next time I run into stock on the trail," will think twice about that idea after reading some of the subsequent warnings posted before the thread descended into (unwarranted) nastiness. J.
  24. You'll find the color among breeders of conformation dogs and some sport bred dogs. I've never seen a truly working bred dog (that is, both parents actually working stock at some advanced level, not including AKC trials) in ee red. That's not to say they don't exist, but I'd be surprised to find any. J.
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