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juliepoudrier

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About juliepoudrier

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    Poseur extraordinaire and Borg Queen!
  • Birthday December 22

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    https://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Poudrier-and-Crowder-Set-Out-Specialists/329618357089895
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    23851736

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    Female
  • Location
    Virginia

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  1. juliepoudrier

    Life with a Puppy on a Farm

    I don't see any harm in bringing the pup with you while you do chores, but definitely keep it on a leash/line. It's a good time for a pup to learn patience for sure as long as you're not expecting the pup to behave for hours on end. Be careful with the pup around stock because cattle, especially, are big and cam easily (even if inadvertently) hurt a little puppy. I'd let the pup see stock but I don't know that I'd encourage work at the beginning. J.
  2. juliepoudrier

    What is considered inbreeding

    I think it's a convenient excuse because it sounds better than admitting she's a puppy broker. J.
  3. juliepoudrier

    Kit is 17!

    Happy birthday, Kit! At 17, you deserve ALL the love!
  4. juliepoudrier

    Molly's first time on sheep

    I'm not sure why anyone was offended by GentleLake's comments: they are, in fact, true and do follow on from Edze's (I hope I got that right) comments about just trying the shed. In an ideal world we would train our stockdogs in a progression of steps and for the novice, stepwise training certainly makes the most sense from a human learning standpoint. I think most everyone who trains a stock dog has an idea about the normal progression of training. But when I give lessons, I try to encourage my students--once they understand the basics--to be open to opportunities as they present themselves because a lot of learning/training can happen in those moments. So if you're working a large group and a big hole naturally opens up, why not call the dog through, even if it's not at the "stage" where you'd be teaching a shed? I think all GentleLake was trying to say was that many people train in the moment, adjusting to what's happening in front of them, and Flora (?, not sure if that's your name) will eventually get to that point too. Flora & Molly, Barking is not unusual the first time (or first few times) a young dog is put on stock. I personally don't like it, but I won't correct it unless it's excessive and is because the dog is losing its head rather than thinking about working. They are trying to figure out what to do to move and control the stock and that's one of the tools they try. Excitement certainly plays into it. There are breeds where a "force bark" is said to be an asset, but no one typically says that of border collies. That said, I wouldn't worry about it right now--see if she settles in a few sessions. If it continues overlong (like throughout many training sessions), then I'd probably start correcting her (verbally) because by then it would say to me that her head wasn't in the right place. Of course this is a generalization having not seen Molly, but your trainer should be able to judge Molly's state of mind and deal with the barking appropriately if it becomes necessary. J.
  5. juliepoudrier

    Is Interceptor Plus safe?

    It should be perfectly fine. If she tolerated Heartgard, she'll likely tolerate Interceptor. J.
  6. juliepoudrier

    Donald McCaig

    I just learned of the death of Donald McCaig yesterday. This a great loss to the working border collie world. He was a tireless advocate of the working border collie and a great storyteller. If you read only one of his books, I suggest An American Homeplace, which is the story of how he and his wife Anne left the PR world of NYC for a sheep farm in the Virginia Highlands. Godspeed, Donald. J.
  7. Or just research the rescue and make sure they're doing things the right way. I know of multiple reputable border collie rescues in the mid-Atlantic states. There are plenty of border collies either found wandering or surrendered locally, and these rescues have no need to go buy from dog sales. They can barely keep up with fostering the dogs that are in need locally. J.
  8. Melatonin has been very effective for me when I've had oldsters who couldn't/wouldn't settle at night. In combination with some sort of anti-inflammatory/pain relief, it could help. J.
  9. juliepoudrier

    MDR1 - can we eradicate?

    True that. But MDR1 is likely the tip of the iceberg. If we start there and continue trying to eliminate, could have serious consequences.
  10. juliepoudrier

    MDR1 - can we eradicate?

    If the 0.5% carries the best working genetics. ABCA (and also ISDS, I think) are working hard to find ways to reduce the risk of creating dogs with these genetic problems without also diminishing the main reason the breed exists, which is its working ability. In the (Lassie) collie world, eliminating the mdr1 mutation is more straightforward because any working ability that breed had largely already been lost, so no worries about losing those complex genetics while trying to remove a mutation from the gene pool. J.
  11. juliepoudrier

    Observations on dogs with early hearing loss

    Your farm is so beautiful! And I'm glad Bonnie is no longer having her heart broken. My old man is losing his hearing (normal at 12.5 years) and I formally retired him from working trials a couple of weeks ago. But I can still find some jobs for him at home to keep his heart whole!
  12. juliepoudrier

    Can we talk testicles

    Just FYI, I've had two cryptorchid males. I waited until they were 2 years old before having them neutered. The biggest risk to retained testicles is undetected testicular cancer, which is unlikely in a young dog. There should be no harm in waiting till his growth plates have closed before neutering. J.
  13. juliepoudrier

    Ram horn growth and castration

    Doesn't the burdizzo just crush the spermatic "cords"? Could it be a possible burdizzo fail or the ram is producing extra testosterone in the adrenal glands? J.
  14. juliepoudrier

    Abca lookup?

    Have you tried a drag line on him? If he doesn't come when called, you simply pick up the line and reel him in. That way he's not practicing being disobedient--you can call him once and then just reel him in. I wouldn't let him off leash or a drag line until he was reliable with a recall. At his age, they are approaching "teenage" years and will test the limits. One of mine at about that age, who was trained, would look at me when I called and then take off to the pond two farm fields away. Usually when I was trying to head out somewhere. I'd have to go walk her down. But I did. And she got no emotional response from me whenever it happened. So she finally realized that she gained nothing from it and stopped. She had a reliable recall the rest of her life. It doesn't have to be all positive (treats, treats, tears) or all negative (e-collar). My normal process (which is the foundation by which I train stock dogs) is that I will give a command/request, if the dog complies, it gets praise and perhaps a treat (if I've planned ahead and have some with me). If it doesn't comply, it gets some sort of correction word (a sharp "hey!" or "aaht!" especially if it's sniffing around and ignoring me), and a repeat of the command. If it still ignores me, then I'm going to walk it down or reel it in. I start this when they are quite young, and I do use treats when training basic manners on a pup. With a slightly older dog you didn't raise yourself or that has "issues," it's up to you to figure out what motivates your dog and adjust your training to that individual dog. If he's behaving aggressively toward other nearby dogs when on leash, then I'd avoid putting him in those situations while I trained him to improve his confidence (basic obedience, tricks, agility, whatever can build a dog's confidence). I'd work on his leash walking skills away from places where you're likely to encounter other dogs that trigger him. Once he's reacting, he can't learn (because he's full of adrenaline at that point, and that overrides everything else), and all you can do is remove him from the situation. One of my dogs, whom I got at around 18 months, was fear aggressive. I found that out the first time I grabbed for his collar, I don't even remember why. My first reaction when a dog snaps at me is to whack it across the muzzle, and that's what I did. There was an instant change in his demeanor--his lips came forward and his eyes hardened. It was clear to me that he was prepared to meet my aggression with escalated aggression of his own. So I had to figure out how to communicate with him in a non-confrontational, non-aggressive way. I never used treats or what might have been termed purely positive training with him (not because I was against it, but because it simply wasn't part of my training lexicon then). Instead, I took my cues from him, figured out what his triggers were and minimized them, and let him "tell" me what what training methods were suitable. He was a biter, but he lived with me until he passed away at 15 and I got bitten once in all that time, and that was my mistake. The point of this missive is that he was a clear case for which any training method that was harsh or hurtful would have just solidified in his mind that he was *right* to be fearful and that his aggressive reaction to protect himself was necessary. By figuring out a way to communicate with him that didn't add to his fear and worry I was able to have a long, productive partnership with him with minimal damage to either of us. The irony was that he was generally very friendly with everyone, but I had to be careful because I couldn't always predict what other people would do that might trigger a fear aggression reaction. An e-collar on a dog like Farleigh may have extinguished some unwanted behaviors but I'm certain it would have turned him into a ticking time bomb. Because I wanted a dog that I could take places (I was doing a lot of trialing then so traveled a lot to places where we were around a lot of other people and dogs) without fear of random aggressive behavior toward others, I took the time to figure out what things made him fearful enough to react badly and then worked on those things while also letting him learn to trust that I would protect him so that he wouldn't need to react. It did work. J.
  15. I've always has cats and dogs together, but not outside cats that need to get used to dogs. Consider that from an outside cat's perspective, larger predators (and dogs are predators to cats) are dangerous, so it's not surprising that the cat reacted badly. Had it been a neighbor dog bent on destruction or a coyote instead of your new pup, the cat's response might have been what saved its life. And border collies do tend to have an especially predatory stare. If the pup can be confined to something like an xpen in the yard while the cat is out and about, then the cat will eventually get used to the pup. If your sister can go out and interact with her cat while you interact with the pup nearby, but outside of the cat's "flight or fight" zone, you can eventually desensitize the cat. Unfortunately, the nature of having outside cats is that it's much more difficult to set up and control meetings between the two. Your pup will get over the encounter you described, but I think it'll take you and your sister working together regularly to get the cat adjusted to the pup. And that includes you making sure the pup never chases or threatens the cat. J.
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