gcv-border

Congratulations to you and Mouche. So much wonderful progress in such a short time. I really can not think of any improvements. Keep up the great work. (As I was reading about her diarrhea, I kept saying to myself - giardia, giardia. I am glad you thought of it.)

Your question was answered above by myself and alligande. Pups can run around by themselves, at their own pace. The problem is with the constant, repetitive impact exercise at the human's pace that is the problem. I do watch out if they are playing with another dog to prevent them from overdoing it. But it sounds like your pup is fine since she is moderating her own activity.

Agree with the 2 posts above. Do not take a 6 month old with you on your runs until their growth plates are closed. For border collies, that is generally believed to be around 14 months, as a conservative estimate. The problem with running with young dogs before the growth plates are closed is that the repetitive action can negatively affect their joints and possibly set them up for injuries and arthritis later in life. This same rule applies to any repetitive motion - like practicing jumping for agility. Casual hiking, even if the dog is free-ranging, is much less strenuous on their joints because they moderate their own pace. They walk, trot, stop, sniff, run, stop, walk, etc. You get the idea. I think that there is no problem with allowing a 6 month old pup to 'exercise' for longer than the 5 minutes per month 'rule' as long as it is not repetitive exercise where they are required to maintain a constant pace that 'punishes' the joints before they are ready to take the strain. I also have a 5 month old, and we get out for about 60-90 minutes of total walk time per day, broken into 3 -4 walks. I allow her to free-range for about half of that time.

When I house-train a puppy, I DO rely on confinement (crate, x-pen and/or tethering), IN ADDITION to routinely taking them out at frequent intervals and after eating and playing. And yes, I use the same techniques for an adult foster until they have shown that they are housebroken. I have read that the enzymatic cleaners require a week or two to totally remove the smell. So I would be carefully watching the dog during that period to make sure he doesn't revisit the area.

He may NOT be marking (or he may be), but for any dog (whether they are mine or I am fostering), if they seem fairly house-trained and suddenly start peeing in the house, I immediately bring them to the vet to check for a UTI. Do not wait. UTIs can be very painful, and of course, you don't want to be cleaning up more than you have to. Dogs with UTIs will pee much more frequently than normal. Once a UTI has been ruled out, I would keep him tethered to me inside so I am aware of his 'signals' that he needs to pee. Then run him outside and praise for peeing. So yes, keep him on a leash inside and outside. Continue with your normal routine, but tethering allows you to be aware of his signals and patterns and perhaps you may have to adjust YOUR schedule to more closely match HIS schedule. Some dogs are so crafty. They are with you, and then they are gone for a couple of seconds, and then back. You don't realize until later that they have snuck away to pee.

What a beautiful girlie. She sounds like she will be fine in the long run. She hit the jackpot with you.

Thanks for adopting a rescue dog. Jack is a lucky dog. He sounds like he is doing fine. And he seems to have caught on to your routine quite rapidly. He is comfortable enough with you to want to be with you when appropriate, and then finds his own happy place when he is not 'needed'. Sometimes I think these dogs are part cat when they perch on things or go off to a bed in another room. LOL. Count your lucky stars he doesn't pester you for attention - as can often be the case. He may change a bit more as time passes because one month is not very long for a rescue dog to acclimate to a new home. He may still be in the process of getting more comfortable and figuring you out.

I think it would be fine to practice daily, but I would limit it to 2-3 minutes per session. And set it up so she can be as successful as possible. As you probably know, it is always better to have shorter, highly successful practice sessions than longer sessions where she has a low success rate. Some dogs are just very sensitive to slight changes. I have heard of some dogs, when practicing running down the ramp of the dog walk, that just freak out when the one end of the board is raised too much. (Seriously, someone complained that if they raised the one end of the ramp more than 1/4 of an inch, their dog knew it and didn't like it.) Maybe raising the one end to the table without intermediate heights was just too much. I would go back to flatwork, then raise the one end gradually - maybe an inch at a time and see how she reacts.

If she was not confident at this stage, I would not have moved her forward to the next stage. How did you define "once it was time to raise the board", if she couldn't do, and was not comfortable doing, the previous step. I like to see 80-90% success rate before challenging with more difficulty. Frustrating, I know, but foundation work is so critical. (I am currently having a problem with one dog's backside approach. After fiddling a bit, I have decided to go all the way back to intro training.)

Happy Birthday Cressa! That looks like an amazing cake. Enjoy.

So sad for your pup. If you think this may be a one time occurrence and may be somewhat short-lived, I think the fastest solution would be to cover the windows so she can not see out. Hopefully, that will produce an almost immediate change once she is convinced that the boogeymen are not longer outside her window. Normally, I would recommend desensitization, etc., but since she is a puppy and she may never see this exact scenario again, it may be easier for everyone if you just managed it (window coverings). If she were to see something similar when she is an adult, she may have more confidence and be able to deal with it better. Is it the sight that is spooking her or the sound? or both?

First: please define apron. What is it made of? What is it? One foot inside the fence or outside the fence? What is your fence? Wire or solid wood? Bury some wire fencing in the ground - at least a foot deep. Four feet doesn't seem that high for a border collie. (Even though he isn't jumping it now, I am just thinking about the future.) Second: he is obviously bored. More walks, more training (trick training, obedience training, agility, nosework), more time spent with you (does he like car rides? Bring him with you while you do errands - as long as the weather isn't too hot or cold. I know others will have good suggestions.

D'Elle brought up a good point. I found out the hard way about 20 years ago that fetching sticks can be dangerous for dogs. The BC I had at the time managed to grab a stick that was flipping end over end and it stabbed him far down his throat. He yelped when it happened, and I couldn't see anything wrong when I opened his mouth, but brought him to the vet. The vet had to anaesthetize him to treat him because the wound was so far down his throat. There are fake sticks one can buy as substitutes. They are not pointy and made from somewhat flexible material. Much safer.

What are the genders of the dogs? First, in this instance, I would never allow the roughhousing inside the house. If you must, keep them on leash inside the house (and separated far enough apart) so they do not engage in the 'bad' behavior. I would also start to try and teach them that they don't HAVE to play so hard every time they see each other. It sort of sounds like it has become a habit. Outside, I would also keep each one on a leash and walk them side by side, but far enough apart that they can not physically engage, even when at the end of the leash. They probably won't understand at first and will want to play, but they should catch on. You can also try distracting each one with a toy or treats while on your walks. ( I am assuming that the other owner will be involved.) Again, just trying to break the habit.

Sounds like Rooster and your GSD are getting a lot of good exercise. WRT Rooster: Any activity you have described above is NOT herding, It is chasing a toy or another dog, but not herding. It is great that R is showing impulse control when you tell him to lie down and wait. That is a positive. Personally, I would not play this way with two dogs. They may have a good relationship that allows this type of play, but (a) one never knows when the chasing of the other dog might become fractious and (b) if R gets used to playing this way, what will he do when he is around other dogs with Frisbees? I do not allow any of my dogs to chase/take away the toy of another. I either play with each one by themselves, leash one up so they do not interfere with the other dog, or each dog has their own toy and they are not allowed to steal the toy of the other dog. Right now, I play with 3 dogs/3 toys. Each dog can only go after their own toy when I tell them to. I try to throw one toy for one dog while another dog is bringing their toy back. I try to avoid overlap, but it happens and luckily, I can tell one or two to wait. Perhaps look into disc dog games. Are there any canine frisbee clubs around you? Just today, I was reading about UPdog competitions which sound like a lot of fun. There must be helpful online discussion/instruction on how to safely introduce a dog to frisbee games. (Safely, as in appropriate exercises for introducing a dog to frisbee so they don't overextend themselves and injure some muscle or ligament.)

What a cutie! Have fun with him.

No, she can not run too much, but she CAN range. While you are training her recall, it won't hurt her to stay a bit closer to you. And if you really want her to run without limitations, let her loose in a fenced in field. Then, if she blows off a recall, no harm (i.e. she can not escape to run after birds or run away on a road) - except that you know that she needs to stay on the long line longer and needs more training. So sad for her, but hey, at least it is information you can use to know where you are in your training.

Great. Glad you found a source. I don't think you need to go much longer than 30-40 feet. Much longer would be VERY heavy and cumbersome. The lead should be long enough to allow some freedom, but not so long that it is heavy and impacts the dog when dragging it. If it is too long, you can always cut it.

Good for you to go back to basics. Another game is 'monkey in the middle'. This game requires a second person. In the beginning, start closer together in an area without distractions, preferably fenced. Again, if you are worried about Minnie running away, keep a long line on her. Stand/kneel about 10 feet apart. One person kneels/squats and holds the dog by the chest (you don't want pressure on her neck by holding by the collar), the other person calls and reinforces heavily when she comes (jackpot treats, toy or tug play). The second person can either stand for recall or run away. Mix it up. Then the first person calls Minnie and reinforces heavily. Happy, happy voices. Game play. Once you think she is doing well, gradually extend the distance. ***Since this should be a high intensity game, sessions should be short. Only 3 or 4 times back and forth. And remember, mix it up. BCs get bored easily because they are so smart. Long line. Most people here would not recommend a Flexi-lead. What we mean by a long line is something that a person who trains tracking/SAR dogs uses. Some people like the cotton webbing (feels good in your hands, but gets heavy when in wet conditions.) Others (myself included) prefer a biothane long line (3/8 inch). Biothane is a little slippery, but does not get heavy in wet conditions and it is easy to wipe off. (and it comes in many pretty colors) For training purposes, many times we want the long line to drag, and the flexi-lead is not designed to be used that way. Dirty: getting dirty/messy is a sign that you are doing it right. A badge of honor. LOL.

Recall is so important so please indulge me if I nerd out on it. Even if your vet has BCs, it doesn't mean that she should generalize training advice. Each situation is unique. Do you have a farm/land that they can run around on without too much negative consequences. Maybe your vet does so she can be more lax (I know I am) when allowing the pups more freedom from the leash. If I lived in a suburban situation, I wouldn't allow my pup off-leash after a week or so. Does she have other dogs that have good recalls? Since my pup likes to follow the older dogs around, I use the older dogs to help train recall, because when I call them, the pup comes running too. (Oh, I forgot to say that I currently have a 5 month old pup. My 5th BC.) Just because I am still mad about it, about 20 years ago, I got some of the worst training advice ever from a vet who owned a BC. Long story.) Anyway, I like to incorporate recall games into the training. Also, I pay attention to low-level and high-level reinforcers and appropriate times to use them. (And this is an entire separate converstion of many facets.) As already suggested, use low-level reinforcers (good girl, pat on shoulder, etc.) when you have to reel Minnie back towards you. Use high-level reinforcers (chicken, roast beef) when she returns immediately. Games: to really ramp up the recall training, RUN AWAY. When you do that, it activates the dog's chase response. And start in a controlled situation - a fenced yard, with or without a long line. Also start closer and gradually work farther away. For example: start with Minnie near to you, throw a little treat about 5 feet away, she should go for it. Call her back to you and when she turns around to you, run away. Even if it is only a few steps before she catches up. When she does catch up, jackpot the heck out of it, and talk to her in the high voice about what a GOOD girl she is. Really ramp up the excitement. Scream and run like a demented chicken. Call her, let her see you and then run around the side of your house. And don't forget to jackpot and keep the energy up when she gets to you because it should be THE. BEST. THING. EVER. Note: don't overdo it. Limit the fun to less than 3-5 minutes at this age. My rule is that a training session should end with the dog still begging to work with you. It is better to train in multiple, short sessions than in one long session. The dog gets tired, then frustrated, then really begins to dislike training. All reinforcers don't have to be treats. If she likes balls, use that as a reinforcer when she returns to you. Or a squeaky toy or a tug toy. A LOT of training now incorporates the use of tug toys to really ramp up the fun. As she gets the idea of racing back to you, you can occasionally recall in a 'normal' fashion too. Hopefully, she will race back to you then too because you have built up a habit. Be a little unpredictable, mix it up and keep up the high energy. Don't be boring (Call dog, treat, rinse, repeat.) Your high voice: do not be embarrassed to use a high voice because you are a dude. I have seen a lot of expert dog trainer dudes on training videos who always incorporate the baby voice, particularly when reinforcing and treating the dog. And these are Harley Davidson biker-looking dudes that train military and police dogs. Which would you prefer? A well-trained dog, even if you have to use a softer voice or one that doesn't listen and embarrasses you?

A lot of good suggestions here. First: IMHO, your recall command has not been 'poisoned'. To me, the command is poisoned if the dog is consistently exposed to negative consequences when the command is used. I don't read that in your responses, so I would say (as have others) that you just have to work on consistency in a distracting environment. I agree with keeping her on a long line so if she blows you off when she has her 'freedom' (or she thinks she is free because she is 30 or 40 feet away), you can reel her back in. Just calmly reel her back in without saying anything (but I often will say my recall command a second time when I start reeling her back in to pair the command with the action). And I agree with giving her a low-level reinforcement (good girl, pat on the shoulder) when she gets to you. And as has been mentioned, start with very, very low level distractions and GRADUALLY add. You will know if you have pushed the distraction level too high if she doesn't come when called a 2 times in a row. [Depending on the level of training and the environment, I do not expect 100% consistency from a puppy.) No lasting harm, just tell yourself that she wasn't ready for higher distractions and next time, you must do a better job of controlling distraction levels. Note: almost every mistake can be a learning experience for YOU. You should be observing what works and doesn't and using that information to plan the next training sessions. DO NOT run after your dog ---- which is why owners should not be in too much of a hurry to let Fido off the leash too soon. If you are worried about her safety in ANY environment, keep her on a long line/leash. It is ALWAYS better to go home with your dog, than to have her run away. And just curious, how have you been training your recall?

IME, IF you are consistent in your training, they will turn the corner in a couple of months. I think the mistake some people make is to think that the dog is being stubborn or hard-headed and continue to train as if they should be continuing on an upwardly linear training journey. The dog gets frustrated and your relationship can suffer. Relax, go back to some basic skills, make the dog successful and happy. It is only a short time in the scheme of things. They are STILL a 'puppy' after the teenage years and need the appropriate training. I would consider the 1.5-2 year old benchmark about when they calm down and become adults.

Beautiful little girl. She is doing fine. Right now, she is in her TEENAGE years. Each dog is different, but this phase usually hits around 5, 6 or 7 months. Very common when pups seem to be very distracted, lose some of their training and generally want to blow you off because they are REALLY beginning to notice the outside world. i.e. you are no longer all important. LOL. Generally, you keep working on foundation training (you may have to go back to more basic learning just because they are testing the boundaries and you want them to have as much success as possible.) Just grit your teeth, stay positive, keep up the basic training on the long line to prevent bad behavior, and she will come out the other side (one or two months). Yes, every once in a while, you can test her off-long-line behavior to see how she responds, but if she doesn't come (do it in a low distraction environment to give her a fair chance. Don't set her up to fail.), then no second-chances. She goes back on the long line for another week. Remember, teenager. Obviously, the other dogs at training class are too distracting right now. The instructors should be allowing you to work closer so she can be more successful. Talk to them. Eating - no free feeding. Human food - If you want to save bits, save them to put on HER kibble at HER mealtimes. If she is crowding you at the table, teach her a command (mat, place, bed) where she goes to a special little rug, or dog bed, (one you have used for training) while you eat. Obviously, behavior will take a long time to teach and proof for duration, but might as well get started. This is also a good command to have if you want to get her out of the way in the kitchen. Digging - not much experience here, but I have heard that some people will set up a special section in their yard similar to a child's sandbox. Then they will bury toys in there and actually encourage the dog to dig there, and only there. The dog gets reinforced when they find a toy. Others may have better suggestions. Good Luck.

Great response, Flora and Molly.

My dogs do more licking of the traditional Kongs (cone-shaped with hollow interior) than actual chewing. I do think that the Kong company makes other chew toys that may fit the gnaw/chew category.