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Everything posted by gcv-border

  1. LOL - on the Saturday video. Interesting that NADAC is getting less flow-ey? The lack of tight turns was a hallmark of NADAC, and what set it apart from AKC, USDAA, etc.
  2. Agree with D'Elle. There is no way to proof every possible thing that could happen in an urban environment.
  3. I don't know. She looked pretty good. And wide turns often result as the speed ramps up, which may not be a bad thing?? Second run - that looked great too, except out of the tunnel where you pushed her out. Not by a hand/arm gesture, but because you were too close. Does she have a pretty big bubble? (Those types of dogs can be a challenge!) It was good to see that you were able to settle her down after that.
  4. Super Congratulations for hanging in there.
  5. Pups can be spoken for before the breeding happens - particularly if the dam or sire is an impressive dog. It is not unusual to hear someone tell the owner of a dog "If you plan to breed X, I want a puppy." There is no guarantee that the owner will remember that statement, so usually the 'buyer' may check back with the owner every so often. Also no guarantee that the bitch will get pregnant with a breeding or the # of pups to pop out. As an 'outsider' to the sheepdog industry, I probably would not be able to reserve a pup in this manner. IMHO, deposits given to a reputable breeder (and one who has been breeding quality dogs for a # of years) wouldn't worry me. I trust they would refund my monies. (Note: I do rely on a few people who are in the sheepdog industry to advise me on the reputation and honesty of a breeder I might be interested in buying a puppy from.) Having said that, in my very limited experience, if the breeder knows you or a mutual friend can vouch for you, sometimes verbal interest is enough.The breeder may keep a list of people who have expressed interest in the upcoming litter. They may ask for a deposit once the bitch is bred or once pregnancy is confirmed by U/S. Be prepared to put down a deposit ASAP once pregnancy is confirmed. Again, this is a general example. Every breeder has his/her own policies, and you should ask up front. The breeder may accept deposits for an average size litter. If there are fewer than expected, those buyers added later to the list will not get a puppy. If there are more pups, more buyers can be added to the list. It is a very fluid situation. In my case, my first real working bred dog came from a breeder who was willing to take a chance on me. Then, I asked her to help me find another puppy 4 years later. I must have sent her about 20 internet posts advertising various pups or litters, and I kept getting back a 'No'. :-) Then one day, a post popped up on her FB feed for the last puppy in a litter, and she forwarded it to me with a note that she thought this was a good breeding. (pedigree and health clearances and working ability) The breeder asked me for references because she didn't know me. I was a bit taken aback, but had to laugh. 'I' am usually the one to ask for references because I foster for a border collie rescue, and was not used to being on the opposite side of the equation. I passed and soon welcomed a lovely little bitch puppy, now 8 months old. I must say that the availability of a puppy seems to coincide with a period in one's life when you may not be 100% prepared.
  6. For an alternative activity for your dog in the city, look up parkour / canine parkour. You begin to think of urban structures as parkour objects. Maybe makes it a bit more interesting? There are several organizations that offer parkour titles, but since I do not participate, I can not tell you the pros and cons of the different organizations. I am not a big fan of titles, but to achieve a title, you generally have to train for a goal - which is a good thing. You also have to video your efforts to submit for judging towards a title.
  7. Enzymatic cleaner. Be aware that it takes about 2 weeks for the full effect (IIRC per bottle directions).
  8. I agree. Definitely should have dropped by now. At this point, the canal through which they descend has probably closed small enough that they can not fit through - therefore herbs, etc. will not work.
  9. Check the amount of Omegas in his food to make sure they are of sufficient concentration. Many dog food brands will advertise that that their food contains omega, or probiotics, or glucosamine, but in such low concentrations that they are useless.
  10. I saw that photo within the last week, but forget where I saw it. I wondered what color the dog was.
  11. I had been using Dasuquin + MSM for about 8 years for one dog that had shoulder surgery at 3 years of age. Recommended by rehab vet. Since he was never lame or stiff, I couldn't tell if it was working, but just continued giving it to him under the belief that it wasn't hurting, but hopefully helping. Recently, my chiro vet suggested switching to Platinum Performance CJ because she considers it better than Dasuquin. Now that he is over 11 years old, he is slowing. The PP CJ may have improved mobility slightly, or it may be wishful thinking on my part. Another product is 1TDC - which is heavily marketed in the agility world and has testimonials from some top competitors (and in my cynicism, I am sure they are compensated for promoting the product).
  12. After dealing with multiple instances of TBDs - in spite of diligent application of monthly tick repellants, I have no patience with waiting for bloodwork results, or seeing if my dog gets worse. I will treat in a heartbeat if Ithere is the possibility of a TBD. I don't see much of a downside to a month of doxy, whereas the effects of chronic Lyme, etc. can be very damaging. I had a vet that would treat himself, his wife and three dogs with doxy on an annual basis. This is not something I am willing to take a 'wait and see' attitude about. Treat your dog
  13. Great news! So sad for Bonnie, but I am sure you make it up to her in other ways.
  14. Great story! I also think that is a scary pig - sort of like the scary clown.
  15. D'Elle has great advice. I want to add that Willow may be entering those dreaded teenage years when it seems like they have lost their brains and training and really start testing the boundaries. Just remain calm and consistent in your approach during this time. Pretty dog.
  16. It does sound like she is WAY over threshold, and her brain can not think in that condition. Not only is she in a highly stressed environment (agility class), but it sounds like she loves it (higher excitement), and now you are running away from her (brain blown !!!). :-) Do your instructors run highly motivated dogs - like border collies? If not, then they may not understand that this exercise is most likely needless for your dog. There is a difference in some exercises when it comes to dogs that have a built-in engine. You do not need to pump them up. They are already pumped up. By doing some of the motivational exercises that other dogs need to do in order to learn to love the game, your dog rockets past the ability to think. Rethink, and talk to your instructors, about the necessity of this exercise for your dog. If this were my dog (and yes, I have had a couple of easy-to-go-over-threshold BCs), I would be working on a variation where you try to keep her thinking, not reacting like a crazy dog. Start with shorter distances. Maybe even only 5 feet, and see how she reacts. Also, in the beginning, walk or trot, instead of running. I would want to dial it back to a level where my dog will go after the toy, instead of me. Then begin to slowly work your way up to longer distances and a faster pace. Another change (and this one was suggested to me by a world team member in a video course I was taking) is to use food, or another less valuable reinforcement. My dog loves his tug so much that if I have been playing with him with the tug, and I put it on the ground, he will stand or lie down over it and stare at it. I have tried showering him with bits of chicken (literally, a big handful of chicken which I drop on his head) - which he ignores because he is so fixated on the tug. His brain is not thinking.
  17. More specifics please. What are you trying? And how are you attempting to do it?
  18. My advice is pretty similar to the 2 posts above. Rescue dogs can take a while to settle in - days, weeks, or even months. I am not surprised that he is showing different behaviors as he becomes more comfortable in your house. That is normal. I agree that he may be missing being close to his humans at night. Do you know how he was treated in his previous home? i.e. did he stay inside at night? free run of the house? Funny story: One of my first fosters (I foster off and on for a border collie rescue group) was a BC mix that was used to roaming around her neighborhood because her owners couldn't be bothered to take care of her. She became very social as a result. She did NOT like being kept in a crate in the living room when we went upstairs to sleep at night. 3 straight nights of barking/whining. At least every 5-15 minutes. I couldn't sleep a wink, but my husband was fine because he is pretty deaf and takes his hearing aids out at night. On the 4th night, she started the barkfest again. I said what the heck and went downstairs to let her out of the crate with the intention of moving her crate into our bedroom. The second I opened the door, she zoomed upstairs. I ran after her to see what she was going to do, and got there just in time to see her disappearing under the bed. That 60 lb BC mix just DOVE under our bed, and stayed there without a peep until we woke in the morning. Problem solved for the duration of her stay with us. I agree about trying to keep him in a crate at night in your bedroom. As suggested, a cover over the crate may be helpful depending on how the dog reacts to the cat, and how the cat reacts to the dog. You have to try different tactics to see what works best for your situation. If the cat is feeling very frightened by the dog, try tethering the dog to you inside the house so that he never has a chance to chase the cat (if that is what is going to happen). A lot of dog/cat interaction can sometimes be determined by how the cat acts. If the cat is always going to run because he feels scared, the dog will want to chase. I find that if the dog doesn't chase the cat (and you can prevent chasing by keeping the dog tethered to you), the cat can feel more confident, may not run and therefore, the dog is less likely to chase. This is just one scenario. There are so many issues with the dog/cat interplay that you will have to do your best depending on the tendencies of the two species. I also agree about using a frozen, stuffed Kong for calm behavior in the crate (and other times too). If you bring him into your bedroom, give him the frozen, stuffed Kong when you put him in his crate. Hopefully it will calm him during his first minutes in the crate. And after that, hopefully, we will remain calm. Good Luck.
  19. Apologies in advance for the short reply, but I have limited time. Just wanted to give a little feedback. I am sure you will get excellent replies from others. Even though you are on crutches, keep him on a long line - and tethered to you - when outside. Long line can be 20-30 feet. If he starts to act up, you can reel him in. No one, even with a healthy ankle, is fast enough for a baby border collie. This is a management technique, not training. Agreed - do NOT hit him. Work on building trust. Has he been outside your yard during walks with your children? When he was younger, getting out and about (appropriate socialization) would have been helpful to introduce him to strange items, humans and sounds so he is not so reactive as he matures. It sounds like he would benefit from densensitization techniques. Until he is comfortable and more social with unknown people, I would put him in his crate, or a closed off room, so he does not get agitated with your clients when they come. Again, this is a management technique until he can be trained. It also protects you from the repercussions if your dog was to bite someone. "but he will constantly bark aggressively at visitors, we try reassuring him and stroking but he is fixated." Again, I wouldn't let him see visitors until he is socialized better. He is just practicing inappropriate behavior. Also, by stroking him, you are reinforcing his behavior - whether good or bad. Yes, he may be scared, but don't feed into that. At this stage, best to prevent the behavior with management. Be proactive and try not to put him in situations where he will act out. i.e. if a friend is visiting, put him up before the friend arrives. Is there a dog behaviorist (not a dog trainer) that you can consult? It is so hard to give advice on behavioral problems online since one can not 'see' the behavior and the nuances associated with it. The best advice would come from a professional who can do a home visit to observe first-hand.
  20. Ah yes, the fresh scent and texture of a super runny cow pile. I had a girl that would seek them out. (My neighbor doesn't have very good fencing for his cows.) The worst time (IMHO) was when she rolled in a pile so sloppy that it was still dripping off her when she returned - and then she wanted to SHAKE! And her attitude was exactly as described by urge to herd - bright eyes, proud bearing and a tail that wagged so hard, her whole body shook. Luckily, it was summer, and I could use the outside hose to bathe her.
  21. I have had luck with using the treat to lure from a sit to a stand (your method #1). If she keeps scooting, move the treat so she has to take a step or two before giving it to her. If she still wants to sit when you give her the treat, I would keep her moving while giving her the treat - at first. Once she has the idea she doesn't automatically have to sit when she gets a treat (you have probably rewarded heavily for sit/treat. We all do.), you can start treating her earlier i.e. after 4 steps, then 3, etc. The goal is to keep her on her feet while rewarding. Also, don't use the command word until she understands what she is supposed to do. (General rule - teach command before naming it.) Which means that the entire sequence described in the paragraph above is practiced without using the stand command. Feel free to praise/click when treating. :-)
  22. It sounds like this is a pretty good foundation course. Not all techniques work for all dogs - i.e. running through the cones to you. Without seeing what you are doing, I am having a hard time understanding the method. But it doesn't matter because there are so many ways to teach agility skills that the instructors should know how to adapt for your dog.
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