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natelam

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  1. Glucosamine is not, and should not be marketed or used as a preventative. It MAY slow the progression of osteoarthritis after onset, but does not prevent it's occurance. Human studies go back and forth over if it works or not. Some studies show that it improves clinical signs but has no measurable effects on osteoarthritis itself. As a supplement, it is useful when joint degradation is present, as it provides substrate for which the body can rebuild the joint with. Although there are no extensive studies to indicate any negative effects of administering glucosamine, if there is no extensive damage, then the supplementation of glucosamine has very little use since the body's normal regenerative functions are working properly. Rare side effects have included vomiting, and allergic reactions to less refined sources in some dogs. In humans there have been reports that it causes increase in blood sugar and cause insulin resistance which is a concern for diabetic patients. As far as reducing the amount of natural glucosamine produced by supplementing - I don't believe this is true. Glucosamine is a precursor for the formation of glycosaminoglycans, which is a major component in joint cartilage. Glucosamine is also a precursor for many other important amino acids in the body as well. Amino acids are "produced" by ingested protein metabolism or muscle breakdown - new amino acids are created from the "free pool" of amino acids in the body. They are also dynamic which means they can be converted to whatever type of amino acid is needed in the body. The production of them is not down-regulated by supplementation like the case with hormones such as testosterone, thyroid hormone, or cortisol (all have negative-feedback mechanisms). Let me know if that makes sense. Many veterinarians and physicians have differing opinions about when or if to start glucosamine. They also widely debate the dose. In theory, it would make sense to start it at the first signs of joint disease or arthritis. Unfortunately, the only way to TRULY diagnose arthritis is with a joint fluid analysis which often isn't done in our animals with arthritis. We typically make a diagnosis based on clinical signs, and radiographic (x-ray) changes like bony growth at the joint ends, hardening of the bone ends, thinning of the joint space, etc... but chances are...our animals have arthritis before we or even THEY know it! Using it after joint surgery or trauma to the joints is also a common reason. That all being said for my own dogs, I started one of them on glucosamine/chondroitin and omega-3's (Hill's J/D) when I found out she had a skeletal disorder (luxating patellas) that increases her risk for arthritis and joint pain. If you have a hard-working herding and agility dog without any other abnormalities, I might consider starting glucosamine at 3-5 years or at the first signs of slowing/aches but that's just a random number put out there based on "feel". There is no scientific data that points to what age to start glucosamine. Some manufacturers may recommend to start at a young age for the "potential benefit" since negative side effects are rare - but in my opinion this is more marketing than science. (Start young = more sales). The most important thing is to use a product with HIGH bioavailability such as Cosequin. This product is sold by veterinarians because of the the company provides data and guarantees bioavailability. Hope that helps more than it is confusing! The best idea would be to talk to your Vet about your BC's activities/working and how best to supplement her if necessary.
  2. Update: She retrieved for the first time yesterday! She did it twice in a row then lost interest. It was a long fuzzy toy. Today she retrieved a tennis ball twice...could this be progress?
  3. It's not a silly question at all. Cali does not know how to catch. She is only interested in what you wave around her head if it is food related and occasionally if it is a toy. She rarely will pick up a toy, and she never will if it's thrown. She may chase after it and then nose it but then runs back. I will have to try with the popcorn but I have a feeling if she knows it's going to fall and she'll get it anyways she'll never learn =) How do you teach the "take" command. Just have an inanimate object and when they happen to take it, reward them? But then they drop the item to take the treat...I don't want to teach them to take and immediately drop? Sorry if that's confusing. I'm running out of ideas =)
  4. Update: Okay after about 2 weeks Cali will 8/10 times (on a good day) reliably chase a frisbee or ball once it almost hits the ground or after. She will touch her nose to it and race back when I tell her "good girl". She won't yet retrieve it or hold it in her mouth. Any ideas? I feel like I'm the one being trained to fetch.
  5. Cali is doing GREAT. We ran a 5k together this morning and everytime she looked back at me she would remind me that she's in much better shape than I =) Thanks for the comments!
  6. A little more about blood types - the DEA types also dictate the degree of alloantigen reactivity other dogs alloantibodies have to the blood (if mismatched). In general, DEA types 1.1 and 1.2 are the most reactive and result in acute hemolytic reactions, 1.3,5,7 are moderately less reactive. DEA 1.4 is the "universal" type. There is also a new blood type that was recently discovered in Dalmations - DAL. However, dogs typically must DEVELOP these alloantibodies to different blood by way of transfusion (unlike cats who can inherit them). So typically we say "the first one is free" except for dalmations. Sensitization is required to have a reaction to donated blood. The reason we use greyhounds is not only because of their blood type, but because they have a HIGH normal red blood cell concentration. Sometimes upwards of 75%, most more can be taken, and more frequently with low risk than other breeds. When we match, we take blood from the donor and blood from the recipient. We spin the blood down to separate the red blood cells from the plasma. Then we put a drop of the donors blood with the recipients plasma, and some of the recipients blood with the donors plasma and see if they don't like each other (typically see them clumping together as a result of the antibodies attaching). Go Kingsley!
  7. What a kind dog Kingsley is! The reason you want to reduce exercise after donation is due to reduced # red blood cells, hemoglobin, and therefore decreased oxygen carrying capacity. They can tire much easier, lifespan of existing blood cells may decrease with intense exercise, and in extreme cases may collapse. However, assuming your BC is about 40lb, they took a lot less than the 10% volume we typically take from donors so the side effects of the acute blood loss should not be as severe. Regeneration of blood cells may come quickly from contraction of the spleen, but for a full regenerative response from the bone marrow it may take 2-3 days to be back at the level he was at before. Typically most dogs and cats tolerate low red blood cell counts down to 15-20% (normal being around 35-50%) if they are well hydrated and have normal blood volume. If you are really concerned about his red blood cell count, you can have the vet perform a physical exam and recheck a packed cell volume count and total solids (PCV/TS) to see if Kingsley is still anemic. Good energy is a great sign! =)
  8. I definitely see the pointer in her, mostly in her legs and the ticking across her back. But she looks a lot like my Cali whom I rescued about 5 days ago who has the same ticking and looks like a smooth-rough coat =). I just posted pics!
  9. The AC person who checked her in was specifically told by the owner that they had tried to kill her at home by strangulation in order to save the trip to the pound. Horrible =(
  10. I just adopted a 8-9month old BC, and in addition to some of her submission issues, she does not express interest in toys or desire to chase balls, frisbees, etc... She is very food motivated, and is a GREAT dog but I would love to get her more active. I think she would be great at agility as she follows me everywhere on our hikes including jumping up and down huge logs and boulders. Are there any tips to getting her to be more attentive to toys, or to fetch when she doesn't seem to show the "instinct"?
  11. Meet "Cali" she's a 1 year old freshly spayed what I believe is a Border Collie with some mottled spots or ticking. Her history according to the rescue who brought them into our spay/neuter day was a shelter turnover by an owner who unsuccessfully tried to strangle her at home and thus brought her to be euthanized. Here she is by the way...at the clinic in full submission =) I'll follow up with a picture from 12 hours later in a second. We have over come a LOT of things together (she was terrified of the leash, very unsure, afraid to approach food or take treats - she's come a long way in 3 days), but there's a few quirks that I'd like to help her get over so she can gain confidence... 1. Afraid of cars. Does not like to be near them, parked, or moving. If get coax her close enough to the car and get in the backseat she'll jump in. But when we're on runs and we get near a parked car on our side of the street, she'll suddenly bolt to the other side. Strange... 2. She will not walk into the garage, leashed or unleashed. When I get home I have to let her out of the car before the garage. She'll run right to the front door and wait for me to get inside and open the front door for her after I park in the garage. Strange. Any ideas? Here's some eye candy of her now and a short video to show how much she's changed in the last 3 days.
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