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Everything posted by KelliePup

  1. She needs help with the tape, but she's very good at bunching the paper together
  2. So hopefully everything will be in order this year. What else would we expect from a border collie? Merry Christmas Everyone!!!!
  3. I have fallen behind again in my pictures. Not that I haven't taken any, I've just been way too busy with school (worth it though, 3 A's and 1 BA!). I took a series of pictures with my niece and nephew with Kayzie and Maverick. This one is my favorite and has been displayed in local photography stores, so I might as well share it here too. Hopefully I'll have a little time to go through the winter pics we just took and I can get caught up again.
  4. She is so pretty! I love that she's always smiling!
  5. And finally, the blooper reel: Chewing on the pumpkin prop Sniffing or searching for who knows what I’m done Cookie time! Searching for treasure (duck/goose poop) And last, but my favorite of the bloopers: That’s all folks!
  6. And now, for a puppy fix, Kayzie: Still more…
  7. We went out on Friday and got a lot of really nice pictures. So many in fact that I'm having difficulty picking my favorites: First, for his fans, a Maverick fix: More to follow...
  8. 2.) Difficult to give advice on this without seeing the actual behavior. I usually give a time out to all the dogs for a couple of minutes if I feel play is getting too rough. 3.) Another vote for as soon as possible. Just be careful of beginning obedience classes calling themselves a puppy class. A true Puppy class should promote socializing with other puppies and exposing them to new experiences. There are plenty of qualified CPDTs in and around CT. I would recommend their classes because they have had extensive training and their puppy courses are actual puppy courses. If you go to the APDT website, you can search for trainers in your area. Make sure the trainer is CPDT or higher...I know of a trainer in CT that I would not take my dogs to because I don't agree with the methods. This trainer is a member of the APDT, but is not CPDT certified, so be careful. Above all, make sure you like the trainer and trust him/her.
  9. One thing I've done to help with Supervised Seperation with my pups is to "trade" dogs with people I know and trust, and have them work with the dog for about ten minutes or so. At first, we're in the same vacinity/room, then we start taking short walks out of sight. Next thing you know, you can pass your dog off to someone and take off for several minutes or an hour. The really cool thing about this is that we (the humans) are helping each other out. Maverick, ham that he is, buttered up to the woman I left him with for the test. I think he was trying to get treats out of her since that's what always happened when I left him with someone. Point is, he never let on that he knew I was gone, and the more people you practice with, the better. Other than that, it just takes time like everyone else has said.
  10. I also teach down with an upraised hand, but that comes later as a new cue. First I teach a solid down next to me and in front of me. Once that is solid, meaning I can say "down" and/or just point ti the floor and the dog downs immediately, I'll toss a treat either directly in front or behind the dog. At this point, if so desired, I add the upraised hand signal before giving the verbal command and then, if needed, I'll give the old hand signal. The goal here is to have the dog anticipate the other two after the new signal. From there, I'll take a step away, while the dog is in a standing position, and give the signal to down. If the down is solid before this, the dog should drop to the floor immediately and I can toss a treat or other reward. Over the next couple of sessions, I'll increase the distance. Troubleshooting: Every once in a while, a dog will come to the owner and then drop. If this happens, the dog is not rewarded. It might be useful to either tether the dog to a tree so he can't come closer, or set up a "reward station" behind the dog. A reward station can be a lid or bowl with treats in it, and the dog must have a solid "leave" and "take" command for it to be effective, or else the dog will just reward himself. Sometimes having a person ready with treats standing some 5 feet or a little more from the station helps since they can put the treats in the station after you tell the dog he can "take." In a nutshell, make sure you do not reward the dog from your hand when teaching a distance down. Either throw the reward to him or set up a reward station that sits behind him. Do not just reward the dog for downing, you want some distance between the two of you. Start with small distances and work your way up. Have a solid down before adding distance. I'm teaching KZ her distance down right now. The way she's learning, because she wants to stay right next to me, is through use of an "away" command. Basically, I send her to a target, click, and toss the reward to her or behind her so she doesn't come back to me right away. Next, I withold the click for going to the target and give the "down" command. This isn't too difficult since her default command is down and is usually the first behavior she tries when she doesn't hear the click. What makes it more difficult for us is that I don't always want her down, sometimes I'll have her sit, stand, or spin/twist, but then we're working on a dance routine for the BSA Holiday Party.... Hope that helps.
  11. Quick background story: My nephew was diagnoised with Wilson's disease about two years ago. No way around it, at some point he will need a new liver, and guess who's a match and said "sure, just let me know when you need it." Yep, me. I don't mind that at all, I mean, he's family and it's the least I could do. The problem is that I had tried to put off getting a new puppy until after the transplant. Of course, that didn't quite go right because after Kellie was killed, I needed to get Kayzie for my own mental health. So now, my promise to Nephew is quickly coming due. I just recieved word tonight that he is steadily getting worse and the transplant will likely happen very soon. No exact date yet, which I'm seeing as a good thing. This puts me in a bit of a spot with Kayzie. She has made remarkable progress in the month and a half she's been with me, and I've been teaching her to act as a service dog to assist with limited mobility. However, she's also starting to enter that goofy teenage phase. I missed out on some important phases in Kellie's teenage era, and we had aggression issues as a result. I'm concerned that I won't have the time to train Kayzie and curb the unwanted behaviors that crop up before the transplant--and to be honest, I don't trust the people around me to do a good job with KZ since they're ones who looked after Kellie. So, I'm asking, once more, for some advice. Is there anyone here who has had any experience with undergoing a major surgery while a dog was in puppyhood? Is there anything else I should be doing with KZ to prepare her? I want her to be able to visit the hospital and see me, and Maverick too (especially since Nephew loves Mav and, should anything happen to me, Mav will go to him), so we are making visits to assisted living homes and I'm getting them aquianted with crutches, canes, wheelchairs, etc. What else can I do?
  12. I'm so sorry to hear this Make the most out of the time you have...
  13. It was getting dark by the time I got out to take any pictures, but here's fall in Kalamazoo..plus our 1st group shot: First Maverick now group shots (the singles I got of Kayzie came out too dark) and Kayzie single Not the greatest pictures I've taken, but not bad considering the conditions and I had to lighten them up. Hurray for solid stays!!! I'm going to try to get out tomorrow and get some more pictures...
  14. Thanks Sarah. Even with Kayzie I'm still having a difficult time. Kayzie is a cuddler, and she loves playing all the games Kellie did. Maybe I'm wiser now because Kayzie, after only a month and a half of ownership, already has some 20 commands proofed and about 15 others that I just taught her and we're working on. Compared to Kellie, Kayzie is just so easy, but then I don't have the behavior issues with her that I had with Kellie...and I'm in a much better frame of mind. With Kellie, more than any of my other dogs, it wasn't the destination, it was the journey...I just can't help but feel that journey was cut way too short. There are very people around me who truely understand why I still cry at night.
  15. Kellie's first exposure to sheep was spring of last year. My mom went with me to take some pictures, but we didn't very many since it was an indoor arena and pretty dark. These are the only photos I have of Kellie trying to herd. No one went with me to our lessons to photograph. I came across these again the other day and thought I would share. Even though the day these were taken was a complete bust (I made the mistake of telling Kellie to leave the sheep when she tried to go in while another dog was working), these are still very special to me. First sight Walking up showing mild interest, but wanting to play I know they're not the best quality...still, they're all I have aside from my memories...
  16. Sounds like a "trainer"in this area who has a Masters degree in Animal Behavior. This person has taken so many bully breeds with minor problems and turned them into mega-reactive dogs with his methods. I usually get them after he's done with them and I have to go through and undo everything he's done. Talk about a major headache. The really sad thing is that I don't have the "degree" or certifications (I'm almost completely self-taught and the only claim I have is that I spent some time down at Purdue), so people keep taking their dogs to him, but I understand that he has determined that bullies can't be trained and he doesn't allow them in his classes anymore. I suppose that's a good thing. We have another training center here that does the same thing and claims it's right because of years of experience and titles and ribbons...I wonder how many dogs failed their course. They call it "sucess" training; I call it abuse. Good luck with Tobey! You've gotten some excellent advice!
  17. I have a bigger problem with the Red 40...gives Maverick seizures
  18. You can count the calories and feed him less in his meal, you can give smaller pieces of the snacks, replace the snacks with something non-consumable (ie ball, rope, frisbee, etc, or you can start a more intense exercise program. Swimming is a good way to burn off those calories. My pups get a lot of exercise and I rotate what the reinforcer is going to be. This helps in keeping them guessing and more interested in the game. If we have a day that's heavy on treats, I'll cut back on their meals. I also use pieces of kibble in training.
  19. The most important thing to remeber about reinforcers is that the dog chooses what's high value, not the human. There are many people and a startling number of "trainers" who believe the dog is "being stubborn" beacue he doesn't want the piece of hotdog they cut for him. The dog isn't "stubborn" or "defiant," he just might prefer a tennis ball. In that case, the ball is a reinforment that has "higher value" than the hotdog.
  20. Oh yes...I see your point. It's also the reason why I don't go to any of their clubs despite being invited. Definately a different metallity and method that had some disasterous results with Kellie. After having Kayzie a month, she already behaves better than most of the dogs in their "advanced" course. And without the "training collars."
  21. I'm gonna cry. Your pictures are so beautiful and they remind me of living in MT with Kellie. We used to go up into the mountains all the time...even from Germany, those pictures are just so familiar...
  22. Welcome to the boards! I'm just learning the ins and outs of working stock, so I can't help much on that front. This interests me Deb. I can understand the bit about not getting herding lessons, but why not obedience? I think it might have something to with not really having control at a distance with distractions and/or off lead? Or, if the dog is always looking back to make sure he's doing right, a lack of confidence on the dog's part that the trainer didn't help with/maybe made worse? I know I became a much better trainer when I started training completely without using the lead, starting in a small area and moving to a larger one and so on. So, for advanced obedience I can see not using a trainer who doesn't fit those qualifications you set forth. How about Basic? I can see some damage in the method of training, and more with the trainer not really understanding the breed and treating a bc more like, say, a golden or a lab. The other danger I see is becoming attached to your trainer who really isn't a good fit with where you want to go with your dog and is perhaps set in her ways or unwilling to learn more (we have so many of those types around here, I deem some of the things they do as abuse). Is there another issue you see? A bit of a side note real quick. I competed with Maverick in Rally-O at the UKC Premier this past June, just for something fun to do. There was a dog there going after his URO2. My understanding of obedience says the dog should be attentive to me no matter what's going on. Maverick and I were up for the second leg of his URO1 while an Ultimate Air Dog demonstration was going on 20 feet from the ring. Maverick, despite loving discs, ignored the show and we finished with a score of 90 because he pulled a little and stopped to scratch his ear. Either way, I was very proud of him. But this other dog, the one attempting his URO2, was way too distracted over Maverick chewing on his rope to pay attention to his owner. We were asked to leave the ring vacinity! Sorry, but I think if you're going after a higher title, your dog should perform better than a dog at his first show! That's my rant for the day. ETA: We were a good 30 feet away from the ring and the Ultimate Air demonstration was over.
  23. I've worked with several dogs that have trouble with going down. There are a few different methods I use depending on the dog. In no particular order: 1. Catch the down. Observe her during the times she normally lays down and reward it 2. Tunnel method. If the dog follows a treat, lead the dog under something such as your hand or your leg. Reward when elbows hit. 3. Sit and wait. With some dogs, you can put the treat on the ground in your hand and have them figure out what makes your hand open. 4. Shape the behavior. I usually do this with dogs that give up on the treat. What I want them to do is follow the treat to the floor, so I'll start out bring the treat down to about the dog's chest and reward. Gradually, I'll make the time the dog has to keep his/her down longer and longer, and lower and lower. Once that is accomplished, I'll start rewarding any bending of the legs, and then more bending, and so on. The end result, and usually it can be accomplished in 1-2 sessions, is a dog that will follow the treat to the floor and down. 5. Position the treat differently. Some dogs work well if you bring the treat to the floor and slowly move it away from them, others work better if you push the treat toward the dog's chest, and others still like a "wrap around" where you bring the treat to the dog's side and push it under the tummy between their front and back legs. Hope that helps. I might be able to take some video if you're confused on any of them. Good luck!
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