Jump to content
BC Boards

diane allen

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    1,036
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About diane allen

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,424 profile views
  1. You've gotten some great advice, and it sounds like it's working! (AND he's getting older by the minute...LOL!) Another thought: sometimes mental stimulus is as tiring as physical work. There are tons of games and tricks you can do, though I realize sometimes the "overactive" pup isn't going to do these for very long. You might look at some of the physical games - even a muffin tin, upside down, with treats under each cup; or a treat under a ball in each cup. Little things that will keep him busy, give him some satisfaction, AND keep him out of your hair/legs/arms for a bit. I prefer teaching things that are interactive with me - but then, I'm retired and have time. Hang in there - this too will pass! diane
  2. It may take awhile. There are Kongs made for puppies - they're a bit softer and smaller. Or try some other stuffing! But yeah, attention span at that age....about the length of a gnat's whisker! LOL! diane
  3. You've gotten some good advice here, and also that temptation to get addicted! (It's pretty easy to do....) Suggestion: to go to a trial to observe, you might want to leave your dog at home. I know it's hard! But you will get so much more out of attending, if you don't have to think about/worry about/pay attention to your dog. And that last thing? Yeah, you would have to be doing that!! I'll also second the idea that it takes a LOT of foundation to get proficient. Did I always do that? Nope! Two dogs started with very little - and it showed! By #3, I was a little better myself, but even with that one, I could (later) see bits and pieces of things I should've worked on before trialing. Last dog, adopted/rescued at six months of age with essentially no training, took a good two years to get ready. She was a little nervous for several years (never wanted to be wrong), but now is doing amazingly well. I just adopted another one who is 1-2 yr old, also with little training. I think he'll be a work in progress for awhile, so it'll likely be a year before he even sees agility equipment. But he may prove me wrong! Good luck - and remember it's the JOURNEY that counts, not the DESTINATION!
  4. What D'Elle said: Kongs. Kongs. and more Kongs!! They can be filled with any number of items: peanut butter (be sure it has no xylitol in it!), cream cheese, ground meat, ground kibble, whole kibble (with something like PB to hold it in), chunks of cheese, etc. and frozen. They last quite awhile, and Kong makes a variety of sizes and hardnesses (e.g., softer ones for puppy teeth or older dogs). It's handy to have at least several (don't ask how many I have!), so a few can be frozen, one being worked on and one drying after washing. I've been known to resort to bully sticks, but actually prefer Kongs (for my dogs!). diane
  5. Agreeing to respectfully disagree with Smalahunder....I brush all three dogs' teeth every day. Every. Single. Day. It is a total PITA. Don't use human toothpaste (though I have used children's toothbrushes....). The idea that kibble is crunchy and will automatically clean dogs' teeth is bunk. Plaque can still form. Much depends on genetics. I've had dogs who rarely needed any professional teeth cleaning, and some who needed it almost every other year - and that's with brushing. Some people use raw meaty bones as part of dog's diet, and swear that keeps their teeth clean. I can't get good bones, and have one who swallows any huge chunks he can break off - so I just don't do that (though they do eat raw homemade - basically mush!). I am a FIRM believer that healthy teeth = healthy dogs. I had one who came to be (age 4) with pretty bad teeth. I brushed, but she continued to develop calculus. Had them cleaned. Then at age 8, her incontinence was getting bad. I had her teeth x-rayed and cleaned by a vet who does ONLY dental work. After a couple of incisor extractions, her incontinence went away! (My assessment: low grade infection circulating in her body all the time affected her bladder.) My two cents' worth.... diane
  6. Univ. of Washington does the gene test. Do it! As far as "separation anxiety" - he is young! He just left his "family," so now you are it. I would just work on extremely quick trips away from him - like 5 seconds, then 10 seconds, then 7 seconds. Then minutes. Then hours. And of course, things to occupy him when you're gone - Kongs, bully sticks, etc. I must have 10 different Kongs! Stuff with peanut butter (no xylitol, of course), cream cheese, interspersed with kibble or other treats, and frozen. Those tend to keep them occupied for quite awhile! I just adopted a 1+ yr old who hasn't had a lot of human contact. He wants to be EVERYWHERE I am. I tried covering a crate and it just made him crazy. So - I think you'll just have to figure out what works for your cutie pie. diane
  7. What they said about jumping. There is sooooo much more to agility than just learning to jump! And stairs - just don't let him do it. You can do lots of foundation work without worrying about his joints. (Look online for any number of foundation courses!) Teach him to learn - that is the most important thing pups can learn. Let him balance on soft items (like a pillow). Teach him to get up on a low stool (I use the Rubbermaid ones that are about 10" off the ground). Teach him to back up. Teach him to touch your hand with his nose. Teach him to give you a paw. Lots of these are "silly tricks" with application for agility later on. And mostly - have FUN!! They don't stay puppies long enough (or too long for some - LOL!). Also, he seems pretty fearless, but it's a good idea to expose youngsters to as many different things SAFELY as you can - walking on different surfaces, eating from different bowls (metal, ceramic, paper, etc.), riding in elevators, and any number of other things that will help make a balanced and eager agility dog. Good luck! diane
  8. What anti-inflammatory and what pain med? (Just to be clear, I am NOT a vet, just curious!) My old man (almost 13 yr) has been on various joint supplements for quite awhile (bad hips, a little spondylosis, the occasional muscle pull when younger; but STILL playing a little agility, and hiking 2-3 hours over varied terrain with no problems). One rehab vet recommended alternating Cosequin DS and Platinum Performance CJ about every six months. I decided (on my own, anecdotally) that he did better on the CJ so he's been on that for several years. The other thing that I think has helped him a lot is monthly Adequan injections. I don't know if it would help Gibbs at this point - it is kinda pricey - but I do think it has helped my guy. Other considerations: (Yeah, this list got long) Hyaflex, Ligaplex I alternated with Ligaplex 2, Vit. C (also controversial - he doesn't get much), fish oil and golden paste (there's a Facebook group called Turmeric Users Group - started by a vet in Australia; again, anecdotal, but I do think it has helped, and because it's "food", not a drug, there really isn't any downside to it). Best of luck and health to you and Gibbs! diane
  9. billdozer: Sorry, I'm not following. Why not - what? (directed at me or the OP?) If "why not" didn't I do surgery: he was nearly past the age that the appropriate surgery could've been done. I talked with several veterinarians who had either done the surgery or had seen other dogs who had it done, and their agility career was cut quite short. So, while I surely questioned my decision at the time, I'm sooooo glad I didn't do it then! If that's not your question....?? diane
  10. What they said. And using the crate MORE often for GOOD things is important too - feeding, Kongs, etc. Make it mostly a good place to be. Then the "time outs" won't be a big deal, especially if they're short. diane
  11. So sorry. Kit gave you her heart, and its obvious the reverse is true as well. Remember the good times.... diane
  12. I'll second the Happy Howie's. Also: seriously good, but seriously messy is liverwurst/braunschweiger (sp??). You can get little squeeze tubes, fill it up with liverwurst, and just squeeze and let the dog lick the opening. It takes longer than just handing the dog a treat, but they don't get a huge amount. Lots of other good suggestions here too. diane
  13. What Gentle Lake said. Yes. Also: Have you had a vet check recently? Telling the vet what's going on might alert him/her to any potential physical causes. (For instance, thyroid problems can lead to some aggression issues.) diane
  14. I should probably stay out of this...nothing to add re breeding/inbreeding that hasn't been said. OTOH, this thread could prove *very* useful for someone else looking for a pup. Kind of like all the publicity about the damage being done to national parks during the govt. shutdown (OK, off-topic, sorry; but *that* publicity might prove useful sometime in the future. 'Nuff said about that....for now.). diane
  15. I'm going to second the suggestions about: put food down for 10 minutes; if not eaten, take it away till next meal time. Continue until dog eats. But it sounds like maybe he's eating now! Yay!! I would certainly NOT want my dogs eating any kind of raw food indoors other than in their bowl. On the rare occasions they get a turkey neck or the like, it is definitely going to be outside. NO way to clean a carpet - no matter how old. Yuck. On another note: (sorry to hijack, but just asking) you keep referring to "meat." What, exactly, are you feeding? At six months of age, pups have pretty specific nutritional requirements. I have fed raw homemade food for years and years - but any pup in my house gets a variety of good kibble for growing dogs until a year of age. You may choose to do differently, but be cautious. Hope all continues to improve! diane
×
×
  • Create New...