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laurie etc

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About laurie etc

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    Wild Wonderful West Virginia
  1. Isn't that how the MH and RS investigations got started? Disgruntled buyers turning to ABCA for help? I wouldn't underestimate the buying public just because they are buying from puppyfind. I would think they would still want their registration papers to validate their fine purchases. I'm certainly not saying ABCA is at fault; but find it strange that as this guy's life deteriorated from a "Border Collie Breeder" to an "out of control Hoarder" that there weren't some red flags from the customers who bought his puppies. Maybe ABCA IS already looking into it. If not, shouldn't they be now just to confirm how many litters he registered, checking DNA against pedigrees before the "evidence" all gets sent out to rescues and/or adopted and there's no access to the DNA any longer.
  2. I agree - there wouldn't be strange dogs roaming in without severe consequences. One account I read said they found some dead puppies under a truck. Sad to say, but if the dogs were hungry enough I would not expect to find any live puppies. I don't believe there is a "breeding season" for dogs other than maybe Basenjis. Intact bitches are going to keep coming in season every 6-10 months year round.
  3. Journey, I wasn't throwing ABCA under the bus(your words, not mine). I don't think that the man has always been mentally unstable; I think at first he "thought" he had a good money-making product, that turned into a tragic hoarding situation. I guess my question should have been worded "Why hadn't this guy been turned in and/or investigated by ABCA for his breeding practices before it came to this?". You can't tell me that there weren't some dis-satisfied customers with all the advertising and breeding he was doing. His ads on puppyfind and his websites at least infer that he was selling "ABCA registrable" pups (see link below). I agree that anything he produced in the past year or two (maybe more) ought to be DNA tested and/or papers rescinded. With that large a colony of dogs running loose, there's really no way to have any kind of controlled breeding program. It will be interesting and sad to see how many of the bitches are pregnant when all is said and done. As an aside, I think it's typical that non-Border Collie folks think anything that isn't Black/White and fluffy must be a mix or an Aussie or Sheltie cross. All the dogs in those pictures and video clips look like Border Collies to me. Laurie recent puppyfind link: http://www.puppyfind.com/view_listing/?list_id=hc4m65m3n3&sid=b69451b9aededfd2f1ad7e7e1d340149&back=%2Fl%2F%3Facct_id%3D102791%26country%3D%26state%3D%26page%3D1%26order_by%3D%26back%3D
  4. http://www.bcrescue.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10414&st=0&sk=t&sd=a this thread has more details...
  5. The news reports I read list the location as Joe Davis Road in Jefferson Texas, and that's his address. Also, on the rescue boards, one of his children is reported to have told the Humane Society that he imported some stud dogs from Ireland, and paid a lot for them when he started the kennel. If you Google his websites, he proudly lists two Irish merle imports as the sire of his pups, and that the pups are ABCA registered/registerable. If you look at RD's website, she has copies of the pedigrees for the Irish dogs, registered to him. Seems pretty unlikely that there would be two Border Collie puppy mills on the same road with Irish Imports, right?
  6. I wonder if ABCA is even aware of this, if so if they would help? And why wasn't this guy investigated already? He did a lot of advertising on puppyfind and stockdog lists. These are/were supposedly ABCA registered dogs. Some from imported ISDS dogs. I did a little searching - Sand Spring Border Collies - John T Wilson in Jefferson TX. Maybe ABCA could cough up a little $ to help with the vetting and transport if nothing else? http://www.puppyfind.com/redirect/?acct_id=102791&list_id=ztyel45w9m Laurie (back to lurk mode now)
  7. run, do not walk, away from this trainer. find one who understands dog behavior. read this link- one of my favorites... "he just wants to say hi" http://www.positiveway.us/Downloads/HeJustWantsToSayHi.pdf Laurie
  8. Certainly not talking about Aled Owen or ROY... and I have no stake in these breeders, but I see some blanket comments in this thread that could be considered pointedly defamatory, for instance... “RS also inbreed(s) on(e) some horrific temperaments.” “I think you need your head examined to pay their prices at LE and be on a waiting list for dogs esp with some of the negatives in their lines such as seizures and deafness.” “Temperament issues in the Rising Sun lines are prevalent, period.” People might want to watch what they post publicly, that's all. Laurie
  9. OK - just pack Dot up in a box and send her to me . Laurie PS - Some of ya'll should probably watch what you are typing/insinuating on a public forum - things are sounding a bit slanderous at times.
  10. Well sure. But to me there is a lot of difference between a dog bred with his foremost job as a "lap dog" and Border Collie. I would certainly hope that a good Lhasa would have pretty strong inherent bite inhibition, or he wouldn't be much of a companion dog breed. Herding/working dogs are much more apt to use their teeth as part of their jobs, so therefore might be a little harder to convince. I have a five year old dog that I raised from a pup who still likes to mouth my sleeve/hands occasionally when we run agility. I let her get away with it as a pup, when I didn't have a toy or leash handy, and needed to distract her fom staring down other dogs. Her default when she gets too excited in agility is often to "mouth" at my sleeves or hands. I wish I hadn't let her do it, but hind site's 20/20. Granted, she doesn't break the skin or even leave a mark, but it would be a stupid way to get disqualified. Laurie
  11. Admir Ski said " I can't get a handle on the process of teaching him to moderate his bite. He has a few (hardly ever) times when he'll just mouth, but it quickly escalates, and then sometimes he just goes straight to trying to bite my arm/hand/leg off. How do you reward soft biting? Should you?" I can think of 3 reason why dogs don't have bite inhibition. I'm not advocating any type of punishment for puppy biting, which could cause a dog to later "lash out", not knowing how to control his bite. Another reason dogs don't learn bite inhibition is that some pups never mouth or bite at all as puppies, so never learn inhibition. When the day comes that they need to use their teeth, they go "all out". Another reason is being taken away from Mom and littermates too early, before his "own kind' have taught him that hard biting is unacceptable. Your puppy bites. Do you really want a dog that puts his teeth on you as an adult? Why would you "reward" any type of biting? Basically, you just tolerate "puppy mouthing", and then teach an off to deal with the hard biting. It's not rocket science. You are probably making way too much out of the whole thing. Some pups just bite hard. They need to learn not to. Laurie
  12. I haven'd through all your posts regarding Skis' biting, but here are a couple sugggestions: 1) Stop treating him like a baby. He is a dog. You are the human. Establish that relationship now while he is small. Make your hands, ankles , body parts more unvailable. By that I mean, stop "offering them" and moving them around. Many people make the mistake of getting down to the pup's level, to play. That puts you on equal terms, and you don't want to be. A little pup can't bite your arms/hands if you are standing; and if he's going for ankles, pants legs, it is much less fun to bite something that is stationary. Stopping movement usually stops the action. 2) If he is persistent in biting pants legs and the muzzle hold isn't working, elevate him off his feet. Pick him up, not cuddling, take him out of control of the situation. Once he settles, put him back down. If he persists, a time out in the crate until the idea leaves his head is warranted. 3) If you haven't already, start teaching him to "settle" in his crate. He needs to learn he has an "off button". Give him some crate time to chew a bone, chill out, not demand attention. Start in short increments, when he is quiet, randomly, quietly go by the crate and drop a small treat in. Don't reward or give attention when he is "demanding" attention, only when he is quiet. 4) Teach an "Off" with a toy. Get him playing/biting a toy. Use a toy on a rope, or a long tug toy. Not something that he can accidentally latch onto your hand with. Move the toy around, play with him, then once he is engaged in biting/chasing the toy, firmly clamp it to you thigh/hip, and say "off". Game over. The movement is stopped, and he will soon think this non-moving toy is pretty boring. When he lets go of the toy, praise, pause a few seconds to let it sink in, and then the game can resume. It's a give and take game. You offer the toy = he gets to bite. You stop the action and say "off" = he stops biting. If he trys to get to your hand instead of the toy, the game stops. He learns that teeth on human skin is not permitted. Once he understands "off" on a toy, you can use the command with anything he is mouthing/biting. Laurie
  13. I've been teaching dog obedience and agility for well over 20 years...Here's my list I give people who ask what they can training their puppy to do before it's really ready to "work" at something... Keep your puppy training sessions to "minutes" at a time. Teach these essentials while your pup is still young, and everything else will fall into place. For my dogs, the essentials are listed below -- not necessarily in prioritized order. You may have more to add, depending on your goals and situation. 1) puppy knows and responds immediately to its name 2) housebreaking (with pottying on command outside) 3) crate training (and going in crate on command) 4) walking on a leash without pulling 5) sit – plus duration for a sit stay 6) down – plus duration for a down stay 7) coming when called (#1 in my book) 8) bite inhibition! (also "off"/"leave it") 9) an “Off button” –learning to settle, chill out 10) household boundaries and limitations (doorways, furniture, countertops) 11) outdoor boundaries and limitations (fences, gates, roads) 12) no jumping up on people unless invited 13) socialization to humans (family members and strangers) 14) socialization to other dogs 15) socialization to other animals 16) ability to be separated (or isolated) temporarily and accept it 17) ability to deal with loud noises and voices 18) acceptance of being touched all over, and grabbed by the collar 19) acceptance of nail clipping and grooming 20) learning to defer to owner in a scary or tense situation Coming when called - MOST important whether you use "that'll do, here" or just the pup's name, or "Come". Use a long line when you can't get to the pup immediately. Never let your pup learn that a recall is "optional", but also, make sure you make it a pleasant experience when the puppy obliges. In your situation(with small children) Bite inhibition would also be very important. Way important to start training now while she is still smaller than the kids, and she has her puppy teeth. There are many ways to teach this, but violence/screaming is not going to work. She does need to learn that dog teeth NEVER touch a human. With kids, no exceptions. IF she nips/mouths a person - the fun ends. If that doesn't work, I use a muzzle grip (hand over the bridge of the nose), squeezing the upper gums/teeth to calm and stop the nipping with a firm "hey" or knock it off", then release when the pup has calmed down. If the pup persists, elevate her off her feet (takes her out of controlling the situation). Don't let your kids do the disciplining - an adult need to enforce this. If the situation has gotten too crazy, a brief time out in her crate to settle down and then let her back out to "play nice". That's all for now, have to go to work.Laurie
  14. Cute pup! It's late and I am tired, but PLEASE... it is a very bad idea to be jumping a pup that young, especially on a hard, slick surface. The stays look fine, how about teach sit down, shake. roll over beg, highfive, etc, and keep it "low impact" until she is at least around a year and/or her growth plates have closed. You are possibly doing serious longterm structural damage by jumping a pup repeatedly at her age. Laurie
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