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Sue R

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About Sue R

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    Bark less, wag more

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Bruceton Mills WV
  • Interests
    Stockdogs, horses, chocolate

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  1. And it certainly depends on the owner - what one person finds onerous, another finds to be enjoyable interaction with their pup/dog. I haven't found mine to be a lot of work but I have found it fun to work (sometimes a lot) with them!
  2. What they all said! I made an effort to take our youngsters with me in the car and especially to the vet's office, for nothing more than an outing or an opportunity for treats and pets. My dogs are totally at ease at the vet's office, walk in the door with no issue, are comfortable with the vet and techs, etc., because we laid a foundation of "this is a fun and rewarding place to be" rather than just a "this is a place where you get poked and prodded and jabbed". My only real issue at the vet office is that they want to sniff, sniff, sniff at all the dog (and cat) smells. We live on a farm and their walks are along dirt roads, through woods, and in fields, so they are always eager to "read the news" at the vet office or if we visit suburbia, where there are the scents of other dogs to investigate. In fact, they pay more attention to the smells than they do to the actual other dogs that are present...go figure that one out!
  3. Very good information here! Not all dogs or pups are cuddly. I would love my old dog to have been a cuddler but he just never has been (although, much to my chagrin, he does occasionally cuddle up to my husband) and yet he is as loyal and devoted a dog as a person could ever want. And he really, really dislikes anyone's face near his, and always has been that way. Some dogs, like some people. just have different personal space requirements. Enjoy her puppyhood, make it as positive as possible, and continue training and working with her but not expecting more than you should from a pup who is still, really, a baby. Very best wishes!
  4. Sue R

    Elderly dog's possible seizure?

    Yes, I have talked to our vet about the first two seizures and will talk to her about this one.
  5. Sue R

    Elderly dog's possible seizure?

    Megan had her third seizure this morning. She will be 16 1/2 years old next month. None of her seizures have been long-lasting or what I would consider extreme. The first, which was in mid-August, was probably the worst in terms of time (maybe a minute) - she collapsed on her side, stiffened with her back contracted and head drawn towards her back, paddled, then began to softly whine as her body relaxed, her contraction went away, and she was shortly able to lie on her chest, then get up, and walk off, appearing within minutes as if nothing had happened. About a month or so later, she had her second seizure, like the first in progression but milder - she collapsed, stiffened and contracted but not as much, didn't paddle, hardly whined, and came out of it in about half the time, walking home again as if nothing had happened. This time was way different - she was eating her breakfast in her crate, totally normally, when I heard the crate rattle. I looked to see her having a bout of diarrhea and looking unsteady on her feet. I got her out of the crate and could see she was having trouble walking. She collapsed, contracted, paddled, then relaxed and whined gently, rolled over onto her check, and was able to get up. I got her outside and she had another, mucus-filled liquid movement. What I noticed was that she was very unsteady on her feet for about a minute. I read where a dog having a seizure can poop or pee during the seizure, and also that he/she can drool, chomp, chew, or even bite their tongue. Fortunately, Megan has so far exhibited none of the "mouthy" symptoms other than the little bit of whining as she is coming out of the seizure. Anyone else experienced this? I had just been quite pleased to think she hadn't had but the two seizures with the second being so mild, and it being six months or so since those happened.
  6. Sue R

    Goodbye Peg

    Oh, Mark, I am so sorry to hear of Peg's passing. Funny how I find I always associate certain handlers' and dogs' names, and "Mark and Peg" are one of those pairings that seem forever. She was such a good dog and you two made a great pair. I feel privileged to have known you both, even just a little. I'm glad you had such a good, long run together.
  7. As the band played, "This Too Shall Pass"! But not generally without some input on your part to encourage progress and avoid bad, lingering habits. Horse farm? Make absolutely sure that you do not allow her to "turn on" to horses because working them is bad for the horses and dangerous for the pup/dog. I'd probably avoid the horses for the time being. I have had two who turned on to horses, when I was more ignorant, and horses are just too risky. Play in the yard. Do leash walks, relax about her playing with the leash, and do some off-leash walks, too, as long as you know you can call her back or catch her (that's where the yard is good) or put her on a long line that she can drag so you know you can catch her. And, yes, it certainly takes time. Each pup is different and some require very little incentive to control the nipping while others take much longer. As GentleLake said, consistency is vital! Otherwise she will learn that bad behavior is sometimes rewarded and therefore it is worth trying. Don't ask me how I know...
  8. Welcome, and what GentleLake said! This topic has come up many times so do try a search. There have been many threads with good advice. In a nutshell, anything that amps up the arousal (and that can include shake cans, etc.) is not usually beneficial. And, like anything that is a sound deterrent but doesn't have a real effect, she's going to ignore the shake can because all it did, initially, was interrupt her concentration. Now that she's learned it's nothing really, she can ignore it. There are a couple of approaches to a nippy pup - one might be to give the pup an alternative to feet, hands, shoes, and pants, by providing an acceptable toy instead. Something like a tug rope that's made of braided fleece material, that's easy on baby teeth and lets her exercise her desire to nip and shake without doing any damage. Lots of times, when you have a behavior you don't want, find a substitute behavior you do want or that is acceptable, that she enjoys. Another approach is that this behavior is often due to your movement - if it is, stop your movement. If a pup finds that attacking your pants or shoes results in all the fun and enticing motion stopping, that can help her lose interest in attacking. Again, try substituting another activity/behavior to occupy her - a chewy rope toy or a ball. Some people find it effective to squeal "ouch" (or something similar) when nipped at. Some pups will respond to that by sitting back and thinking about how they stepped over the line, just as if they had nipped a litter mate too hard. Some pups have much better natural (or mother- or litter-trained) bite inhibition, and this can include nippiness. You may find you need a combination of approaches. I'm not all positive in my approach - I like to be as positive as I feel is reasonable but sometimes I also find a correction to be my choice. That can be as simple as a sharply-expressed "acht!" which many pups/dogs correctly interpret as "No!" but which seems to work better than the word "no". Sometimes a mouthy pup, especially one who gets mouthy at certain times or aroused at certain things, just needs a time-out in the crate or x-pen. Many pups do get over-aroused when they are tired, like at the end of a walk or playtime, or in the evening, and some crate time (with a chew or Kong or similar diversion, or no diversion at all because it's nap time) is a good alternative. Some pups get nippy and it's all good fun for them - some can get quite a little bit of rage going on. I had one that was the second kind - when that happened, I would take him by the scruff and lift his front feet slightly off the floor (supporting his weight with my other hand under his chest), and talk to him quietly and firmly until I felt him relax and quiet down, and then I could let him down again. In no way was I choking or hanging him; he was totally supported by my hands, but he was also not able to continue trying to nip or escape me. He was simply in a position where I was in control and he was not, until he gained control of his state of mind. One thing to remember, especially with smart dogs like these, is when you let a behavior happen (intentionally or otherwise) more than a very few times, it often becomes a habit. The more it's happened, the harder it will be to correct, retrain, or manage. The good news is that this is a common puppy behavior, as undesirable as it is, and often with care and training - and a little age - the pup will get past this annoying (and potentially dangerous, with those sharp teeth) phase and become much more responsible. Remember to respond, generally, to your pup in a business-like and matter-of-fact approach, and not an emotionally-reactive fashion that will tend to amp up the arousal. Is your leash-grabbing problem an issue when you are putting the leash on, or when you are walking her? I don't have an issue with a pup that wants to carry or play with a leash while we walk but I would want to deal with a pup that attacked the leash when I was wanting to put it on her collar. There are people here who can give you much better and more detailed advice, and I hope they chime in. Meanwhile, check out the search function and you may find all your questions answered. PS - And remember, they might do somethings different in Iceland...
  9. Sue R

    Aggression issues

    Heather - You have not made it at all clear that you were even willing to try keeping her on leash until you can get any of the several problems solved, so it is easy to see where GentleLake (and others) may have felt that they were wasting time being concerned and giving advice as it did seem (at least to some of us) that you were not even interesting in trying that management option while pursuing a vet visit and any other option you might have to get help. Some very experienced and very caring people have given great advice, and I can understand their frustration if they feel you are not willing to give it a try. And I am sure we are all relieved to hear that you are keeping her on leash currently. We can only go by what we read here, so we all need to be clear in order to make this discussion worthwhile. Again, I wish you the best in addressing these issues and resolving your problems. It is possible that you might find that the only safe resolution is the use of the leash whenever and wherever you are that there might be other dogs or undesirable (to you, but not to the dog) edibles. PS - I read it that your dog has been attacked six times by other dogs. If that's the case, I would not be the least bit surprised that she has become aggressive. Many dogs become fear-aggressive with a lot less trauma than that. And they certainly do recognize breeds. We had a Border Collie cross who was jumped by a German shepherd dog while he was working cattle. Even though he was largely and functionally blind in the latter half of his life, he could detect a GSD or cross by scent, and would react, for the rest of his life.
  10. Sue R

    Introducing our BC to livestock

    What they said! Thank you for providing a home for this dog, and I hope you can get some help with his behavioral issues. Best wishes!
  11. Carolina Border Collie Rescue covers the Carolinas. I am not really familiar with them but you might also check them out. http://www.cbcr.org
  12. Sue R

    What is considered inbreeding

    And there are a number of people who will describe what they do one way or the other, but what it comes down to is that they are really a puppy broker, a puppy mill, or a backyard breeder.
  13. Sue R

    Aggression issues

    What they all said - keep her on leash and, if needed, use a muzzle. Walking is excellent and healthy exercise, one that can keep a dog as fit as anything else. A dog does not need to be running loose when there is a recall problem or an aggression problem or the problem of ingesting dumped food. These are all unsafe situations for your dog, as well as any dangers posed to other animals. She may love her ball but that's also no reason to not leash her and muzzle her if needed. Get your problems solved (recall, aggression, and picking up discarded food), and look for a safe place for off-leash play and fetch as an alternative. If you can't find one, you may just have to change your routine. If people are routinely dumping food, that alone is a good reason for leashing - cooked chicken bones can splinter and cause damage, for instance, when ingested. Also, if people are discarding food that your dog might pick up, who is to know if that food might not have something harmful in it, like something that is toxic to dogs? Better to manage your dog to avoid a potential tragedy. I have three dogs (well, four right now as we have a long-term "guest" dog) and living in a rural area, my dogs are generally used to off-leash walks and playtime. But when we go visit family in suburbia or down near the beach, the local laws and situations require leashing whenever outside, and so that's what we do. It's not easy giving up what *you* like to do and what *your dog* likes to do, but you have to adapt your management to your situation, and that's what's called for for several reasons here. Best wishes at the vet visit and dealing with these issues!
  14. Sue R

    My sweet Kit

    I am sorry for your loss, D'Elle, and am so very glad that you had a long time together. I have two that are 16 and I will be facing that final hurdle with each sometime in the next year or so, I am sure. My heart goes out to you. I always try to find comfort in realizing that the greater the grief in the loss, the greater the love in the time together.
  15. Sue R

    Shoulder Injury Help-Advise

    Please don't throw sticks at all. There is too much opportunity for injury, even with smaller sticks. Instead, use balls, artificial sticks (Kong makes one that my dog loves), or other toys that are made for tossing but are safe for dogs. That said, if I don't have a toy along on a walk, I have one or two dogs that often pick up sticks. They both have a "drop it" or "leave it" command if I don't want them even holding the stick (like if it is splintery or has sharp ends), but I do sometimes let them *carry* a stick that I feel is safe (solid, without splinters, and large enough). But I never throw a stick.
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