Daniel King

Yay Sue. You did good! my first guinea pig on a new method (explanation) of how to finger whistle. You made a decent sound in a few tries.. I swear it was several hours of constant trying before I got out a squeak. keep at it. Funny thing was the look of surprise on your face when you made the first sound! Dan

Hey Sue, I think I did offer at one point. I would be happy to show anyone at Tom Forrester's. A few people have asked me since about it so we should try. You really can "talk" to them with your fingers. I always got the impression I only "gave orders" with the metal whistle. Dan

For some reason, the whistling to the border collies has always romanced me. I have taken a keen interest over the years to listen to the various types of mechanical whistles and people who finger whistle. I'll try to answer some of the questions posed. Only my personal opinion but as far as the mechanical whistles go, I firmly believe that no whistle offers more clarity and volume than the good ol' plastic whistle. They aren't glamorous but they are very loud and clear to those who can work them. I have listened to countless people whistle from afar while working at the top ends of various trials. At the end of the trial I have walked by the loudest, clearest whistlers and found a plain plastic whistle hanging around their neck. I also think the various metal whistles work just fine, since the are the most numerous out there. Their sounds all mix together for me with none more clearly dominant than the other. To me, the plastic ones are the only ones that stand out. And to maybe answer your question T; I really think the finger whistlers have a slight advantage. You can really "talk" to the dogs with your fingers. Just listen to Tommy or Alasdair... The tones, volume and accents are nearly unlimited. The volumes speak for themselves. As a veteran of mechanical whistles and then moving on to using my fingers, I just find the latter more intimate and satisfying. I would recommend to those curious, to try learning to whistle with their fingers. If I can learn, anyone can. In the end though, I can't honestly say that I have noticed that the dogs care. imo, no matter what type of whistle, if you have a good rapport with your dog, it will take the whistle command. my .02 Dan

Anyone out there have experience with this grass? My contract farmer is real big on it but I wanted to get other opinions since he is more of a cattle man. From the description is seems like a fit for one of my pastures but wondered if anyone had experience or knowledge with it in regards to sheep. http://www.hancockseed.com/seed-varieties-...lb-bag-376.html Thanks in advance, Daniel King

Hi, I will need to buy a Remote Control Gate set-up soon. Anyone out there have a recommendation as to a brand or what to look out for? Thus far I have visited the Tractor Supply Store in my town and was not impressed with the lone, seemingly expensive option they had. Thanks in advance Daniel King

Tea, Cool Deal! My email at home is awayjig at gmail or furthermore1 at aol. I am really intrigued. I had someone give me an Icelandic horn when I firsted started experimenting with making crooks. I subsequently ruined it and still have the sad evidence. If I had the chance again, I could have made a beauty knowing what I know now. I have a Shetland Horn but have not begun to work it yet. I think it may work. these are both smaller breeds so you don't get the mass of a mature Scottish Blackface which is the prize find of a stickmaker. Ewes horns are of no use for a Crook. (Too hollow). However I have begun experimenting with jewelry and buttons. So any is appreciated. Contact me and we can figure something out. Again, thanks so much, Dan

Hi, Thanks for the heads up Julie! Tea, we may be able to work something out. What type of rams did your horns come? Scotties and Dorsets are best but others will work with a little coaxing. Also age of the ram when processed is a factor. Should be at least three years old or so for suffiicient horn to make a decent crook. Thanks Dan

Hi, I would definitely be interested in the horns. I make Crooks and misc trinkets with the horn. I can make it worth your while Do you know how old the rams are? Please contact me privately thanks Dan

Pls cross post and spread the word. Thanks

Hi, Might be the wrong place to post this, but since this situation is not a rescue. I'll try it here. A very good friend of mine finds himself at work now more than home. With no time to do agility nor keep the dog busy with "work", he feels like his BC is not getting the attention she deserves. He will hang on to her till her dying day but wondered if there were a better situation out there where she could compete at agility, which she loves, and get more attention. Had my friend continued to run her, I have little doubt she would have been a Top National contender. This dog is fully trained on all of the agility obstacles and is extremely quick and accurate. She has won local twenty weave pole challenges and knows her directionals (left/right) very well. She can take someone to the top. It was rare that she did not win her class. She is spayed and has her ILP. Here is a brief description of some other points: Pip is an almost-6 year old (DOB 12Dec2002), smooth coat, tri-color female border collie from strict working lines (ABCA) Pip is completely housebroken, responds to a variety of obedience commands on and off lead, and is an excellent retriever in and out of water. Pip has had a good deal of agility training and currently has achieved her AKC Novice A (Std and JWW) and Open A (Std and JWW) agility titles. As an agility dog, Pip shows strong drive, fast speed, tight cornering and extreme responsiveness. Her potential as a high-scoring agility dog would be unlimited with the right handler. She jumps 20" AKC. Weighs 30 lbs. Pip is personable with adults and children of all ages; she has spent the last 6 years of her life in a household with children ranging in age from 8 years to infant. While very good with cats, Pip is not well-behaved with dogs. She tends to be bossy and aggressive toward other canines, especially if they are female. Pip is also noise sensitive, displaying nervous behavior when she hears thunder or gun shots. Pip would be an excellent prospect for someone wanting a started agility dog. Due to her high drive Pip needs to be placed in an active setting. She would do best in a single dog home, but she could probably adjust to a home with one confidently dominant male dog. Pip is healthy, spayed, and up-to-date on all of her vaccinations and preventatives (heartworm, flea/tick). E mail me furthermore1 at aol dot com for further info and contact information. Thanks Daniel King

Patty, and anyone else trying the mechanical whistles.. It takes a while before you can begin to get a good sound out of a whistle. (Unless you give one to a kid). I floundered for several months before I could make some nice sounds. I kept Alasdair's cd in the player back and forth to work and whistled along. Never could whistle "Dixie" on one. Melanie, An honor to meet you. I hope my girls can help you out with your research. Looking forward to hearing more from you on that. I was trying to remember the substance type and couldn't, of the kind Ray Coapman made/makes. Yes, the Corian whistles are very nice. Should be very durable. My wife did not like the taste of the brass whistles. I think she ordered a stainless one at the Finals. I tried a half moon once and they ended up flying out of my mouth. I needed those "catches" on the sides of the whistle. Like the Montana lite. Once again, I don't think the dogs care about whistle type as long as you are consistent with whatever you have. Good luck Dan

I am fairly familiar with the properties of both horn and antler. I can not imagine that antler would be very durable as a whistle. It would have to be cut too thin to be sturdy. It would most likely warp or fracture. I have seen several Buff horn whistles that were "curling" or warped. Jodi-You do bring up good point about finger whistling. It isn't super practical when doing farm work. Both of my hands are usually full or filthy. It is also hard to work drills with your dogs as it is hard to use a training wand/crook and whistle at the same time. Julie P. and any one else interested... I'll be happy to give a finger whistle "How To" class at any of the Virginia trials this Fall. Just ask. If I can do it anyone can. One catch...just have to do it before we use the porta-potties Dan

I was a volunteer at the National Finals this past weekend where I actually was on the trial field during the Double lift finals. My dog and I were there to prevent the first packet of sheep from drifting where they were dropped off. Anyway, I got to listen to the Big Hat's whistles from the dogs point of view. It was quite a treat. After I left the field, I noticed the type of whistle each handler had (I tried to be somewhat scientific) Far and away, without a doubt the loudest, clearest most consistent whistles, other than the finger whistlers, came from a handler with a plastic whistle. The plastic whistle was very close to the finger whistlers. To me, the metal whistles sounded awful.. weak, inconsistent etc. No contest (to me). From experience, the plastic whistles are harder to work but they are worth it in the end. The finger whistlers sounded superior and clear. i.e. David Henry, Alasdair, Scott, Tommy.. However, no matter the whistle type it did not seem to matter to the dogs. They obviously aren't as discerning as I! The only thing that I saw hurt people, was if they had to shout a verbal command for the look back. Moral of the story...IMO Use what works for your dog... Not what sounds good to you.... I have been told that fingers are the best out West where the winds are strong and loud. fwiw.... I began with a stainless whistle and eventually learned to finger whistle.... no contest to the emotion, strength, communication you can do with your fingers. Maybe to a fault??? my .02 Dan

Sue, That picture is a scream! Next time try to get the whole dragon..It pretty much sums up the fair trial. Gotta love fair time in Va. I hate to miss it. Sylvia will be there with Junior. Dan

Hats off to Ethel, Wink, Susan Rhodes, Deb & Andre, Stacy & Peter, Sue Rayburn, Cassie, Laurie Anderson, Sherry Sheldon and all the others who helped and organized (too many to name and remember)for a great event. Great judging from Barry, Mark and Renee. And as always, a SUPERB job by Deb Crowder and the 4H-ers. What a thrill to run on that field. The rocks ate me up, but I loved every minute. And by the way, I never heard Ethel say it was the last one ;o) Dan

Beauties Christine.. The shot of Roy is a show stopper. I'll be ordering one of my stealthy girl!! Dan

As Wendy mentioned, I too have played with the line before but never stuck to it. This time I intend to. I have seen dogs before and after and the results can be amazing. I know it is not cure all, just something to try like any other tool. I do appreciate hearing everyone's thoughts. The dog in question is quite pushy and has a "Don't bother me I know what I'm doing" attitude. I am committed to her and I hope to stengthen our teamwork and "clean up" the flanks, drive, pace etc. Dan

Thank you all for your ideas. The Bobby D philosophy Mark described is what I am after. I just wanted techniques for when using the line. Dan

I have heard several good handlers talk of the advantages of using a long line for training. I would like to try it on my dogs for training driving, pace, squaring, communication etc.. I would dearly appreciate hearing general comments/techniques/advice from those of you familiar with the long line. i.e. anything from length of line,tension, when to take them off, to Bob Dalziel's methods etc..?? Thanks!

Kris, the double shredded was available from any local landscaper here. I would imagine you could get superior hardwood mulch in Canada. Ours is kinda stringy. It has packed down nicely and given a soft, yet firm surface for the dogs to run on. Should you do similar, putting down the gravel dust was absolutely essential. It provides a nice firm base while draining away the water. It would be muddy, mucky mulch without. Dan

Bob, All, try this link. Hopefully it'll work. The pictures of the dogs are to better show the field and fencing. We have not replaced mulch but plan to supplement annualy. We are told the hardwood mulch is pretty durable. Best of all this is that I don't have to move equipment to mow! It is also low impact on the dogs. Dan web page

Last year I posted a similar question. If you search this topic with "alternative agility field" and you'll see some possible answers to the question of agility surfaces. I did get some good answers and ended up completing an "Agility field of dreams", as she calls it, for my wife. In very brief detail: We brought in a professional excavator with Bulldozer to level off the land and provide a drainage angle. We tended up bringing in fill dirt to supplement. We then put down gravel dust at a thickness of about 4 to 6 inches. Finally, we then spread about 4-6 inches of double cut wood mulch. I finished it off by fencing it in, to an official size. Posts are at a ten ft distance, and numbered, to provide assistance when building or designing courses. It has been a fantastic field. Never mushy, and best of all low maintenance. When the grass in our yard is wet and/or mucky, which is a lot lately here in Va., the field is always good to go. To answer the original question, this is only one suggestion. It is nothing you can do tomorrow, but in the long run it is a permanent solution to wet, mucky, slippery conditions. I'll can post pictures if any one is interested. Dan

My wife will be traveling to the area near Medford, Oregon next week for approx eight days. She will be going through major withdrawal symptoms from playing/practicing with her agility BCs as she will be dog-less! We were wondering if anyone out there knew of a training center, individuals,club,trial etc. going on in that area that she may visit or spectate. Any thoughts are appreciated! Dan

Hi, I have a several family run/commercial sheep farms within a few miles of my house. I wondered if any readers of this board ever used a situation like this for their training and how they did it? Are these types of farms generally amicable to letting you rent acreage and/or using their sheep for a fee? These places have several fields with woven wire and water sources. In a dream scenario it seems like one could avoid a lot of the previously mentioned everyday hassles of sheep husbandry? Thanks for any input/suggestions. Dan