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Miztiki

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About Miztiki

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  • Birthday 02/01/1972

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  1. Fynne was like that when I got her. Just give him time, exercise, and challenge his mind and he will eventually get better. I found that teaching Fynne some self-control was key in helping her. I'd imagine his prior life was lacking so it's good that he has a chance with you to learn that there's another way before moving on to his next (hopefully forever) family. Time, structure, and meeting his needs are your solution though, and a great deal of patience!
  2. Thanks for the replies. I got some of the square chips on sale the other week and I'm seeing some tarter chipping off here and there. They'll get parts and pieces to chew on during deer season but that won't be until fall. Things should be looking up quite substantially next year so I'll just do what I can until then to keep those teeth clean. I think those pressed bones a couple times each month are probably the best for scraping teeth as far as rawhide goes. RMB's and the like just aren't feasible for me right now. Mr. Tiki is coming up to visit in a few weeks and then he'll be able to post pics and vids of the dogs (my computer is messed up so I can't). They are absolutely loving it out here (me too!) and we are really anxious for spring. There is so much to see and do here in the country and we're just loving every minute of it! Take care all, Miz
  3. I can't afford to feed the dogs raw anymore and they are getting some tartar build-up on their teeth, Boy more than Fynne. I am aware of the choking/digestive hazards of rawhide and they only eat it under close supervision, but I wondered what shape is best for cleaning teeth. There are square flat chips, rolled "bones", and pressed "bones". Which does the best job of scraping teeth? I hope you're all doing well. Life is very good here! Miz
  4. I have no problem with (just about) any training tool IF it's used on the right dog, in the right situations, and is in the right hands. Using an e-collar in this situation would exacerbate the problem, not correct it, so please don't. I have a fear aggressive dog as well so I understand what you are facing. It takes lots of time and lots of patience. It's important not to put your dog into a situation where he feels the need to act out aggressively. If he's hiding away from strangers then have them leave your dog alone. My dog Fynne absolutely hated my dad, and that was a real issue because I moved in with him 5 months ago. He couldn't even walk by without her being nasty to him. (Only thing I can figure is that he reminds her of someone because others can interact with her after a quick sniff.) Anyway, I told my dad to completely ignore her - don't look at her, don't talk to her, and don't try to interact with her. Well, he's my dad so I didn't push it when he didn't take my advice, and she had a problem with him until he finally gave up on her and started ignoring her. It's then that she would cautiously come up and sniff him when he wasn't looking. They just played fetch with the tennis racket and ball the other day for the first time. At first she would bring the ball within about 10 feet of him then bark at him and not come any closer. After half a dozen whacks of the ball she was fine and his new best friend. :-) A shy or fearful dog lacks confidence. Anything you can do to build that confidence is a step forward, but every time you put (or allow) your dog into a situation where he feels he needs to act out, such as growling, barking aggressively, or nipping, then you are taking him a step or three back. Consider this; you are afraid of snakes. How would you feel if someone pushed a snake on you? It wouldn't help. It might help to have the snake in a cage so you can go up to it at your own pace to check it out, then let you open the cage in time, then maybe reach your hand part-way in there, then maybe quickly touch it with one finger... In time maybe you have a friend to hold the snake so you can touch it more and maybe hold part of the snake for yourself. Now if that person quick shoved the snake in your face to frighten you then it would set you back, and you wouldn't much trust that person anymore. So try to think of it from Patrick's point of view. It's important to get him out for socialization - new people, places, things, and experiences, but control his environtment so that he's not pushed too fast. If someone approaches you to pet him then tell them it's better to just admire him from where they are. Don't force scary things on him. I would not recommend taking him to the dog park, in fact I strongly discourage that for right now. You don't want him to nip or bite someone or even growl. That's just too much for him right now. As far as your friends bringing their dogs over to play, don't allow Patrick to harass them. My Fynne was 2 1/2 years old when I got her three years ago. She was not socialized at all, so didn't know anything about other dogs, other people, other places, new things... Even a package left by the gate or a new plant on the porch caused her to cautiously approach it and bark aggressively at it. I've worked hard with her and we still have a long way to go. She's been loose around only a handful of dogs so far, and she will harass them as well, once she gets over her initial fear. This is only with dogs that are very submissive though. Any dog that will stand up for itself, even a little dog, still terrifies her and she will tuck tail and run and then act big and mean once she's a safe distance away. I don't know about Patrick, but Fynne just needed (and needs) to be exposed to an assortment of dogs to make up for the socialization she never got with her previous owners. Right now I only expose her to dogs that will not give her any *legitimate* reason to be afraid. I will start with her on leash with me, where she feels safe, and I won't let the other dog get into our space. (I'll shoo it away or have the owner keep the dog a comfortable distance away). I'll walk her in the yard or whatever and make sure she knows that we are to focus on walking, and not on the strange dog. She is to a point now where she'll quickly focus on the walk and not worry too much about the other dog. Once she's comfortable with that (and it took a long time and many dogs to get to this point) then I will have the owner hold their dog with its butt facing us, then I'll have Fynne go up so she can sniff the dog and check it out real good. (This is only if the other dog is ok with this btw.) Then I'll keep Fynne on leash by me while the dog sniffs around the yard or house or whatever, pretty much ignoring Fynne. Once Fynne is comfortable with that then, depending on the dog and owner, I will let go of the leash and let her drag it and sniff around the room/yard like the other dog. If she gets snarky or harasses the dog then I can verbally correct her or take up the leash if needed. I pay close attention to her body language and that of the other dog as well. I don't want either dog to be pushed into anything they are not ok with, so it's important that you are able to read Patrick and the other dog(s) so that neither one becomes fearful or aggressive or anything else. Control the situation and know when to keep going and when to stop. It takes time and patience like I said. Don't let Patrick harass another dog. So to recap, don't put him into a situation he's not ready for. Crate him, use a leash, put him into another room, have people ignore him, have people keep their dogs at a comfortable distance, take your time, be patient, build his confidence up, and teach him that he can trust you, that you are his leader and will keep him safe so that he does not feel the need to act out with growling and nips and such. Other people will have things to share and there is plenty you can learn by reading books and internet sites that deal with this topic too. Do not give Patrick the opportunity to bite though. I can't stress that enough. You don't want anyone to get hurt and you don't want to have to put him down, so prevent situations like that from developing in the first place and slowly work on building his confidence. I wish you and him the best!
  5. Bo Peep, that's the kind my dad had in the garage, big sticks instead of the little pellets (Contact?). He thought he had them all put up but his garage is quite large and has a ton of junk in it. The vet said rodents can move the bait around, so it does no good to put them up where pets can't reach them. I don't know if that's what happened, or if he missed one or more. Either way, we are going to use safer methods to keep the mice under control. Fynne is doing wonderfully and I think I can stop worrying now. She'll continue to get vitamin K for the next few weeks though. I'm seriously thinking of poison proofing the dogs, or at least Boy since he's going everywhere with me now. There's lots of dangerous stuff people have around here in rural Michigan like antifreeze and rat poison and rotten food thrown in the woods and who knows what. Boy loves food so much that it's a four letter word around here (don't say the "F" word!) and I'd be devestated if something happened to him. My old Mickey wouldn't eat anything unless it was in her bowl. I just raised her by saying "no" and that's all it took. She wouldn't even take food from a friend unless I gave the ok. Boy isn't like that though and I can't afford to lose him. He's not just my pet anymore so I'm seriously thinking about teaching him not to eat anything he's not supposed to. I know of one way, not my fave, but effective. If anyone has any alternative techniques then please share. Thank you for your prayers for Fynne. She's just fine!
  6. Hi guys. Fynne found some rat poison sticks in the garage a few weeks ago so I warned my dad about them. He thought he had them all put up but apparently missed at least one. He had the dogs in the garage with him Wed morn so that must be when she found it. Anyway, local vet thought she had an intestinal bug (not rat poisoning) but Fynne got worse, particularly with breathing and swallowing, so I rushed her to the emergency vet. She got real bad on the way and couldn't breathe. I thought for sure I wouldn't make it in time and just kept praying. They put her on oxygen and did a clot test and x-rays. Her diaphram is full of blood and it's pressing on her lungs and heart. That's partly why she's having trouble breathing, and her heart is not beating properly. Her throat is swollen and bleeding, and she has a little bleeding/bruising elsewhere on her body. They did a blood transfusion (plasma) and vitamin K, fluids, etc. They did another clot test this evening and it's still not good but it's better. I have to take her back for another clot test to see if the K is working. Her breathing is still noisy and labored but she's breathing. She's suprisingly alert and perky today. That sparkle is back and I am very hopeful that that means she will pull through and be ok. They advised me on what to watch for and what could still happen. She's going to rest for several days and get babied. She's not out of the woods yet but I am hopeful. It's been a long few days and I'm so tired so I'm going to bed. I sure would appreciate if you'd take a minute and say a prayer for her. Thanks. Miz Sincere Artisan, I thought of you and your dogs the whole time. I can't even imagine what that was like for you to have to deal with. (((hugs)))
  7. Dog food is something us pet owners have been kept in the dark about. I do agree that what you are feeding Polo is not something I would feed my dogs, simply because of the ingredients. Diet is a huge subject that takes time to learn and understand and can be overwhelming while you're learning, but a dog food containing meat as the main ingredients, minus all the fillers like corn and grains, will help keep a dog's coat and skin in good condition (in addition to better overall health). Smell won't be such an issue, nor will continual scratching, excessive shedding, etc. ALL dog foods on the market are able to keep a dog alive. Please understand that much. The quality though is what determines whether a dog is thriving on their diet or not. We can live off Big Macs and chips but it's not exactly healthy or good for us, especially all the time. You may want to learn about dog nutrition so that you can determine for yourself what is good quality and what is not. The ingredients list on the back of the package is all that you should bother reading. The order of the ingredients is always from most to least. Dogs can't digest corn or other grains, it's just a filler that basically goes in one end and out the other. There is absolutely nothing available at the grocery store that I would feed my dogs because of all the fillers and additives and whatnot. That should give you just an inkling as to what to look for when choosing a kibble for your dog, but I would recommend that you look into this subject for yourself when you have time. It's a real eye opener! I hope you are able to help Polo overcome his fear of water. Just take it slow and make it a positive thing. In time he will be ok with it and it won't be such an issue. Who knows, he may even come to enjoy it someday! Oh, and I hope your foot is back to normal soon. I broke my ankle last year and it was a pain taking a bath and keeping my cast dry, so you have my sympathies!
  8. Those are wonderful pictures. I got to spend time watching BC's work cattle in NC and it was the best day I've had in years. Those dogs sure are amazing to watch and they seem to really love their work. I'll always appreciate that person letting me spend that day with them. Thanks for sharing your pics! Miz
  9. Yes, it's bad for them to eat too much rawhide at once (or real bones for that matter). Something I learned is that the pressed (layered) rawhide chews are safer than the regular, but I can't recall why. I don't feed my dogs rawhide. I think it has something to do with potential blockage. Feeding too much of anything that is slow to digest can cause blockage, which can be fatal if not surgically corrected. At the least it could cause constipation. Do you have a kong you could give to Poco? That would keep him busy for a long time, particularly if you had more than one for back-up. I had to crate rest one of my dogs for weeks so made up a bunch of frozen kongs with broth inside. He could eat as many as he wanted and it kept him occupied.
  10. Thank you for those links, and for the tip on Cabela's harness. I have not spent the time to look into pulling harnesses yet. I know Fynne and Boy are shaped differently so will have different needs. This cart will be for both dogs to pull me around, and it will allow me to get Fynne out for socialization without me hurting so much. Depending on how well she pulls and how her socialization goes, I'll have another cart built that will be permanent. Remember, Boy is not a BC. He's a big dog, and I'm not even 100 lbs, so he's quite capable of pulling me in the wheelchair when I need him, which is very infrequently. Nicole, that is an awful lot of money though, isn't it? But I really need that mobility harness like yesterday, so I'll get it. I just can't risk falling. I do think taking the harness to an Amish leather shop for some custom changes is in the future though so that it can be used for other things as well. Thanks for the input guys. I'll let you know how it works, maybe post a pic or two!
  11. It is good to be back, and to have BOTH dogs! Thanks for stopping by and being a friend, and a "friend"!

    Miz

  12. It's so nice to hear you contemplate the pros and cons before getting another dog and not after like so many others, so kudos! Have you considered getting an adult BC or BC mix from rescue or a shelter or elsewhere? There are so many available. Puppies take up so much of your time, particularly with the potty training and socialization, and since you both work full time, an adult might be a better option for you. A rescue could match you with a less active BC or BC mix. Shelters have lots of mixes and there are always dogs needing homes in another section of this forum and in other forums as well. You could find a BC mix that is more low key that would be ok with being alone during the day, but still have the BC quirks and intelligence that we all love so much. If you can't settle for anything less than an intense, active, quirky, intelligent BC, then I would wait until you retire and then get a puppy or adult that you will have plenty of time to devote to. Best wishes to you and I hope you make a decision that will make you, the wife, and the future dog happy for years to come! Miz
  13. What do you feed Polo? Diet can have a bunch to do with how dirty and smelly a dog's skin and coat get. That may be something to consider. I got Boyden from the shelter and he was my shadow until I took my first bath. He wouldn't even come into the room. He's very food motivated so I would give him treats while I took a bath until he was ok with that. Then I'd put treats in the bathroom somewhere with the tub water running a little, then running on full. Then I'd put treats in a dry bath so it was easy to reach, then where he'd have to get into the tub to get them. When he was comfy with that I'd command him to get into the dry tub for a treat. After that was ok I'd lightly run the water for just a second, then for a bit longer, then plug it so his feet got wet. It took time and I wouldn't move on until he was totally ok with what we were doing, but now he will hop into the tub on command with no qualms at all. In all honesty though, I've never given him a bath! He's just naturally clean, doesn't smell a bit, and doesn't leave my fingertips with anything on them after giving him a good rub. I have hosed him down but that's it.
  14. Glad to have you back Michelle! Glad you are doing well with BOTH your dogs. Take care!

  15. I like the way that pulling harness looks Erin and may get that for Fynne for the cart. I will take the LDS harness into a custom shop and see if it can be fiddled with so that it's a 5 in 1 harness. I want it to have the vertical handle like shown to support me, the other handle like shown for pulling a wheelchair (which would be infrequent since I can't sit in them for long w/out hurting), padded and whatnot in the front for pulling the cart (and wheelchair), room for a backpack or something so he can carry a few small things around, and room for a blanket/coat type deal so he doesn't freeze his butt off while I'm ice fishing or out carting for hours. That may be asking for a bit much from one harness, but that's what I'm aiming for. Fynne will need just one pulling harness for the cart though and the design and price on Cabela's looks reasonable to me, so thanks for pointing it out to me. '
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