Lyrically_Speaking

There will ALWAYS BE DIFFERING OPINIONS in those regards, but I agree with you in regards to the car chasing issue. They are meant to discourage the pulling the head to the side, not to discourage lunging through YANKING/JERKING their head to the side. That's the plan. I'm going to start again with a long lead.

He's a very pretty boy, I have to agree with you there And I think that is my next step, no fun outside if he barks...thanks.

Well here's to hoping we both get the answers we desire.

Hi, I'm not gonna start a debate on the matter of spay/neuter vs not. As I said, I am a VET Tech and I am aware of both upsides and downsides to neutering. There are risks associated with the procedure whether or not you wait till the growing is complete, it is AFTERALL a SURGERY. Bear in mind though that while you are correct in the fact that there are disease processes and the likes that are avoided if ithe animal is intact, the same can be said if the animal is altered. For instance, Pro-Altering -Male cats/dogs who are neutered young (under 2 years) show a 80-90% decrease in incidence of inappropriate urine marking/spraying -Roaming is reduced in both sexes (less drive for a mate) -Reduction in amounts of testicular/uterine cancers -80% of unaltered female cats and 70% of dogs will get mammary tumours with 50-60% being malignant/cancerous -PYOMETRA (pus filled uterus) is reduced in incidence -No accidental litters Pro-Intact -Better for future joint health in old age (studies suggest, but has not yet been proven) -Reduction in some cancers -Full appearance of secondary sex characteristics (IE tom cat pudgy cheeks, etc.) My reasoning is simple, my dog is around a lot of other dogs and I don't want him to get hurt if he spends time attempting to mount an unreceptive female. Plus, my grandmother's 7 year old Shih Tzu is unaltered and I don';t think that'd be a healthy pairing or make for cute puppies. Plus, I also do not like his roaming and hope to help curb that (I realize training plays a larger role) and urine marking is unacceptable;e and best avoided. Thanks for your help though, Dakota P.S. - Re: food, I'm aware that i leave excess food out for my animals, and I think the fact that food is available if he is hungry is one reason why he tends to eat ONLY what he needs.

I'm relatively new here, with my first PERSONAL dog, 7.5 month old Kilo (key-low). 1) I'm currently working on switching him from prong collar (Save The RANTS: he was on it to curb his attempts at chasing cars while on leash) to a front hookup harness (Kurgo brand) and he pulls like a mad man. I stop when he pulls, change directions, PRAISE like crazy when hes doing well, etc. Is there anything else that I might be able to do to make the switch EASIER AND PLEASANT for both of us? 2) He chases the cat. It's gradually getting better, as he comes back and generally abides by my commands to leave her be, but is there any thing I'm missing in this? I mean, he generally will chase and I will call him back and praise him when hes calmly playing again. 3) HE BARKS IN THE YARD. I really don't want a noise complaint and was looking for solutions as to how i can curb this nuisance barking. I HAVE been looking into bark collars and usually will tell him to quiet down or bring him in when he starts incessantly barking. He has never been an incessant barker in the house or in his crate. Because of this, I'm opting out of an experience to take him camping with me in the beginning of august (for 5 days) and instead am staying home with him) 4) I now work 40 hour weeks on a bi-weekly rotation schedule (2 weeks days, 2 weeks afternoons, repeat) and was curious as to the thought of others as to my daily schedule with him (below). It seems to work for us and he seems to be happy with it, but I feel that someone with a bit more puppy/BC experience might think otherwise. WHILE ON AFTERNOONS: 9am: Wake up for me, 1st pee break for the puppy and breakfast in kitchen (in one of his puzzles/kong/snuffle mat) while i eat and get dressed 10am: Walk (25-30 minutes) 11am-1pm: Quiet play while I study for my exam mid-august (I'm a recently graduated Veterinary Technician with hopes to specialize in animal behaviour, and the exam is to be registered as an RVT) 1:30-2pm: Walk (25-30 minutes) 2-2:30pm: Fetch or quiet play 2:30-2:50pm: I get ready for work IN BETWEEN MY MOM LETS HIM OUT AS HER AND MY BROTHER WORK DAYS, SHE ALSO FEEDS HIM HIS DINNER OUT OF HIS DISH. 3:15-11:15pm: Work 11:30pm: 15 minute walk 12pm: bedtime Here's a picture of his puzzles/kong: WHILE ON DAYS 5:45am: Wake up for me, 1st pee break for the puppy and breakfast in kitchen (in one of his puzzles/kong/snuffle mat) while i eat and get dressed 7-3pm: work (in crate) 3:30pm: Pick up brother from work 3:45pm: he gets tied in the backyard (we have a short fence on 2/3 sides and he can ALMOST JUMP IT) as I shower 4-5pm: fetch/walk depending on how tired i am from work 5:30pm: dinner in puzzle/kong/snuffle mat for pup in kitchen while we eat 6-8pm: quiet play while I study 8-9/9:30pm: evening walk (it's been too hot this summer to walk him long periods when I first get home) 10pm: bedtime 5) He gets neutered on WEDNESDAY (July 11th) and I was curious as to if it would be wise to purchase a plastic cone SUBSTITUTE (a fabric one or such)? Being a VET TECH I am aware of the need for him to have calm play while he heals. Any recommender quiet activities? 6) Also, I am waiting on an AUTOMATIC BALL LAUNCHER to be delivered to the house, curious if anyone has any experience (good or bad) with them... I will be using it to tire him out on rainy days or on exceptionally hot/cold days (Canadian weather is crap) or when i am studying for my exam. 7) Also, his recall off leash is CRAP, does anyone have any tried-n-true methods of improvement, I would love to be able to walk him (nature trails, or puppy play) off-leash with reliable recall, but would like to take a hand at it prior to paying a trainer (just out of college and trainers would make money tight). 8) Lately he has been turning his nose up at his breakfast, HE IS STILL EATING, but in lesser quantities and it's curious. I typically will offer him 1 cup in the morning for breakfast and one cup at night of ROYAL CANIN MEDIUM PUPPY. The bag states a 35lb, 7-8 month old pup should eat about 2 1/4 cups and he's only eating 1.5-1.75 cups. He's maintaining weight and isn't hungry or begging. Just curious how much you all feed your dogs. Thanks again, Dakota,m Lyric (the kitty-cat sister), and Kilo

First off, Hi!!! I'm fairly new here too so a new face is ALWAYS WELCOME! i have a wee 7.5 month old boy named Kilo (pictured). For names: I think Circa is a sweet name for a girlie. And yes, the things you are mentioning were issues with my baby in the first while. Though take her out more frequently if you find she's messing a lot (every 20 minutes) and praise her EXTENSIVELY when she goes OUTSIDE and bring her outside when she messes INSIDE. As she gets better SLOWLY introduce longer periods between potty breaks. My pup was about 10-12lbs when I got him at 10.5 weeks old and 14-16lbs at 12 weeks so your puppy is good. That's the thing about BORDER COLLIES they are typically bred for workability as opposed to breed standards, so HUGE variations in size, coat, colour, etc. is not an uncommon occurence. Now, at 7.5 months my pup is prolly closer to 35-40 lbs. Unfortunately, the first few months ARE the biggest growth period for the pup, so fingers-crossed for your plane ride. Here's a picture of him on Day 1 (turned it and can't figure it out SORRY) Also, Border Collies are very intelligent dogs and need not only PHYSICAL STIMULATION, but also MENTAL STIMULATION (try snuffle mats, puzzle toys, and other brain games) which BOTH work well to tire them out. If it helps, my daily routine looks like this: WHILE ON AFTERNOONS: 9am: Wake up for me, 1st pee break for the puppy and breakfast in kitchen (in one of his puzzles/kong/snuffle mat) while i eat and get dressed 10am: Walk (25-30 minutes) 11am-1pm: Quiet play while I study for my exam mid-august (I'm a recently graduated Veterinary Technician with hopes to specialize in animal behaviour, and the exam is to be registered as an RVT) 1:30-2pm: Walk (25-30 minutes) 2-2:30pm: Fetch or quiet play 2:30-2:50pm: I get ready for work IN BETWEEN MY MOM LETS HIM OUT AS HER AND MY BROTHER WORK DAYS, SHE ALSO FEEDS HIM HIS DINNER OUT OF HIS DISH. 3:15-11:15pm: Work 11:30pm: 15 minute walk 12pm: bedtime Here's a picture of his puzzles/kong: WHILE ON DAYS 5:45am: Wake up for me, 1st pee break for the puppy and breakfast in kitchen (in one of his puzzles/kong/snuffle mat) while i eat and get dressed 7-3pm: work (in crate) 3:30pm: Pick up brother from work 3:45pm: he gets tied in the backyard (we have a short fence on 2/3 sides and he can ALMOST JUMP IT) as I shower 4-5pm: fetch/walk depending on how tired i am from work 5:30pm: dinner in puzzle/kong/snuffle mat for pup in kitchen while we eat 6-8pm: quiet play while I study 8-9/9:30pm: evening walk (it's been too hot this summer to walk him long periods when I first get home) 10pm: bedtime As you can see, I've learned to incorporate the pup into my day. That being said, THINGS DO COME UP (dates, coffee with friends, etc.) so this is just our TYPICAL schedule. It's a matter of letting the pup have meaningful and positive time with you whenever possible. Quality rather than quantity of time spent. I RECCOMEND getting them a bed and teaching them to settle and self-soothe with their own toys while young. THIS was the best $10 used investment (bed or toybox): My dog is also my first PERSONAL DOG and has been a learning curve. Goodluck and lotsa love, Dakota and Kilo

1) Thank you, I am only using the prong collar until i can resume training in an area where there is less stimuli, as I've reiterated, I would like to see him walk on a flat collar. I am simply giving him the time to SAFELY mature further to the point where I can focus on more leash manners and, with the aid of puppy classes, get him on either a martingale (as the next step down potentially) and then a FLAT/STANDARD collar. Unfortunately, I have no backyard and no way to avoid traffic at where I am now, I've had him for 6 weeks and this has been our struggle. 2) I will be working on teaching him to "leave it" as suggested. I'm always up for suggestions. 3) I'd like to personally apologize and retract my former statement, now with the understanding of what was meant by the swinging stick. 4) As stated above ^^^^ I would rather have my dog aware that both praise and correction come from ME than from a random object. However, I now do appreciate and understand the stick method 5) I have been trained on the APPROPRIATE use of the prong collar and am aware of the additional training required to train my dog, in fact, i look forward to working with my doing to progress to appropriate leash habits once I am back to an area conductive to this training. 6) Exactly, at this point I don't expect perfection, I just don't want my puppy to be road-kill in the meantime.

Thank you for stating my thoughts EXACTLY!!! ^^^^^^ SMACKING A DOG IN THE FACE WITH A STCK??? seriously??? Everyone has their own method that works for them and their dog, but I don't see how a stick to the face is any better than a prong.

My pup, Kilo, is a very happy and focused dog on the collar, tail wagging and happy eyes. He gets excited when he sees the collar and associates it with "walkies". Would he associate something cruel and hurtful to an excited tail wag and sit in preparation to go out if it hurt him? NO... I've seen dogs terrified of martingales, haltis,etc before and that is NOT their reaction. (I love your above description of your dog on the prong ^^^) This is also my thinking, this way he doesn't drag and, while it may not be the "gentlest way" of training leash manners, which aren't as important at the moment as curbing the car-chasing (which the prong is reliable at aiding with). Border collies are active breeds and require the exercise and mental stimulation, frankly; which is worse an upset and bored dog who is left home all day and stuck inside as his owner DREADS walking him OR a happy and SAFE puppy who enjoys his walks? Thank you for the judgement-free and rather supportive comment ^^^^^. As I said, this is being used as a tool (or crutch if you'd prefer) to help me reach our goal of loose leash on a flat-collar. You may not agree with this choice and that's fine, but I live next to a busy 80km highway in my college town and the fact he's weaseled out of 2 different harnesses in attempt to get to cars, only once returning when called and the other time almost creamed, makes the car-chasing and potential for a premature death if NOT curbed ASAP a larger priority for me than social acceptance by all and loose leash walking. To answer this and the other comments, I will continue to look into and peruse through as much information as I can get my hands on and yes he gets his down time (I'm a college student who needs time to STUDY for EXAMS). I HAVE worked with 2 different trainers and tried to get his brain focused on anything but the cars. No backyard, so sidewalks are my only option. I'm doing the best with what works for my dog and our circumstances at the moment. Thanks,

Thank you for your support. I appreciate it and I realize the uproar I may receive at my decision, but it has been made. Prong collars are not the barbaric and terrible crutch that you are making them out to be. For more info look here: http://solidk9training.com/2012/06/14/prong-collars-are-lifesaving-and-humane-training-tools/ Frankly, they provide a short (1-2 second) correction, which is rather humane in comparison to many halters on the market. In fact, if fitted and used correctly, they provide no harm and are rather safe. Halti harnesses are designed to sit under the eyes (a VERY sensitive/eggshell-like area), Body harnesses with back-clips encourage them to pull (hence why they are used as training aids for SLED dogs), front clip body harnesses can cause back issues, choke chains have no stop to their choking potential, etc. I have tried all of the above, except the choke chain, the back clip body harness as the main method for 6 WEEKS, 2 WEEK trial of the Halti, etc.I have tried the "walking in opposite direction approach", the "be a tree" approach, and anything else I could find. That being said, all halters and leads have their pros and cons. I am just using what works for me and my puppy, I'm aware that as he progresses other methods may work better, but for now this is the one that is working and i think it's more humane to use a prong that gives mild and short correction than to watch him start heaving and pulling at the body harness to get at cars (chronic car-chaser) or to have him rubbing his nose raw on a Halti. As I previously mentioned he was almost creamed at 4 months by a pick-up truck BECAUSE, like it or not, he is a 25ish pound pup that pulls like a 100 pound pup on the leash. Thus, this could be a, quite literal, lifesaver for him. This is a tool to use to train loose leash walking so that, when we go to classes in a few weeks it will be possible to slowly transition him to a standard buckle/flat collar. So, while i appreciate and respect your differing opinion, unfortunately I will be sticking by my choice of what will benefit me and my puppy most. With love,

He does hate the Halti, I did my research and he's now on a prong collar. At first I was iffy on this decision, but after a small one was put around my wrist for demo I realized it wasn't as barbaric as it may look. He pays attention and it's curbing his car-chasing too... I think many people are just uninformed about the benefits. I mean, he almost got creamed by a pick-up earlier this week when he managed to pull the leash free of my hand. So to me, a prong collar that provides a second of correction (I had a trainer recommend it and show me how to properly fit it and use it) is a safe bet than having him hit in traffic or hurting my shoulders and back by letting him DRAG me.

I've had this pulling problem on everything I've tried, easy walk included, except the Halti.