Jump to content
BC Boards

D'Elle

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    2,619
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About D'Elle

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Tucson AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

2,757 profile views
  1. Looks like a border collie to me, but that doesn't mean she isn't a mix. There is no way to know for sure if you don't know her parentage. Border collies are defined by behavior rather than by looks. They have been bred for thousands of generations to work stock, regardless of their size or coat qualities.
  2. this tracking device is on a collar, right? Not meaning to be a wet blanket, but if the dog is taken by someone they will simply dump the collar. Even a microchip is not a fail-safe, although it is injected, because if an unscrupulous person takes him they will ignore the presence of a microchip and not all vets will automatically scan for it when someone brings in a new dog to their practice.
  3. Just be persistent. Stop and go the other way every time he hits the end of the leash no matter how many times it is. He will eventually learn that if he doesn't pull he gets to walk along, stop and smell, do whatever he wants as long as it is not pulling. Your keeping him at heel all of the time may be frustrating for him, and so makes the pulling worse when he is not controlled into a heel. If you work on both simultaneously it will help. My method has always been to work on heel for the first 10 minutes or so, then go to loose leash walking as a kind of reward - but a reward that is still training. I don't suggest a front clip harness because that doesn't teach him not to pull when he doesn't have that harness on.
  4. I would just say continue with what you are doing and give it time. It is also possible that something happened just once - a noise or something you would not be aware of - and it spooked him sufficiently that he won't ever be comfortable in there again. that happened one time with my Kit, who was afraid of floor heater grates for the rest of her life because one time she stepped on one and it tipped up and the edge "bit" her. You are right that once he gets into that state there is no turning back and this is common with dogs. Once he is already anxious there's no point in continuing to try to change that, so I would not bother with luring him in the middle of the night or at any other time once the anxiety has started. Trying a calming herb as GL suggested is a good idea. If I were in your place and he went into the bedroom quietly but then woke me up I would probably just crate him outside of the bedroom at night because I hate to be woken in the night. At the same time, though, I would continue to work on desensitization because you have not been at it for very long so far. It might take months, but if it eventually worked it would be worth it.
  5. Good thing he didn't do that here. He might have backed into a huge cactus! Glad he is going to be OK.
  6. This can be done, you would have needed to start from the beginning. Using the crate as only a punishment is sure to create a dog who won't go into a crate, of course. The thing is, your dog needs to be OK going into a crate. There are many situations in a dog's life in which being OK in a crate is absolutely necessary, so start now to change that. Stop using the crate for time out and use something else. Leave the crate somewhere that is easy for the dog to get into, and put toys and treats in there. Start feeding the dog near the crate and incrementally move the bowl closer until he has to get part way, then all the way, into the crate to get the food. Leave the door open at all times. Work very slowly over the course of several weeks to desensitize the dog to the crate. You may not ever be able to use it as a correction again. The thing is, the crate needs to be an OK place for the dog to be right from the start. It needs to be his den, or his room. That is accomplished by using it a lot for nice things like feeding, using it for naps, and so on. Then, when it is used because the pup needs to calm down, it has to be done the right way. For one thing, I don't use a crate for "punishment". I do not have an attitude of Punishment at any time with my dogs, ever. Simply consequences. It is vitally important that you do not ever use a time out, especially with the crate, with anger or frustration or a punishing attitude. You need to do it calmly and even affectionately, the same way you would put a toddler down for a nap if he were tearing around the house knocking things over and getting over-excited. In my experience, dogs don't ever need punishment in training. I really mean that. All they need is to be shown what is right, rewarded for doing what is right, and shown the consequences for doing the wrong thing. The consequences are just that - like a force of nature - and impersonal. And they have to be, like a force of nature, 100% consistent.
  7. Ditto. This wait at the door is one of the very first things I teach any dog who is going to be in my home for any length of time at all. I taught it to all my foster dogs. It is vitally important, to me. They are also trained not ever to get into or out of a car until released to do so, or through a gate. While the tracking device is not a bad thing at all, better to train in order to prevent the escape in the first place, since something bad can happen in seconds. I would, in your place, also train the dog to sit and wait if the leash is dropped, and/or to respect a command of "wait!", meaning stop where you are and wait there. My dogs are trained in the latter command as well.
  8. Dog parks are not good for puppies. they overstimulate them, as is mentioned above, and make it impossible to work on training because the distractions are overwhelming. This creates a situation where the pup gets to self-reward with bad behaviors all the time, and this is exactly what you do not want. Advice you have above is good. Crate every single time he starts to bark. If he is not trained to go into his crate on command, train that now, because you will need that at times throughout the dog's life. You should not have to pick up the dog to get him into the crate. You do not need to let your dog run around off leash and socialize. No dog actually needs to have that, in fact, but it is too much for a puppy. No young dog should be let off leash until there is a reliable recall in place. Letting a young pup who is not fully trained run around off leash is never a good idea. Your puppy was not showing dominance with the other dog. He was putting him in his place - telling him to back off in much the same way you would if you were accosted by a stranger who tried to take away what you were carrying. You would probably grab onto your object and yell at the other person to get away from you. This would not be a show of dominance on your part. It would be standing your ground. That is all your dog was doing, and should not be reprimanded for this, nor should it worry you. I would be far more worried about a dog who did not stand up for himself than about one who did.
  9. Continue the tandem work since that seems to be getting somewhere. And, I second what GL says above about taking a different route. For now, avoid the place where the fall occurred entirely and make sure the walk is happy-happy with treats and fun times. He will get over it in time.
  10. Hi there. I cannot help but wonder why it is that this problem has been going on for three years without being addressed. Or, did you try to change this but were unsuccessful, and if so what did you try? Now that this dog has been walking only with one person and not going out the door with anyone else for so long it will be much more difficult to retrain her. What is her relationship with the other people who are trying to take her out? Is she afraid of them for any reason? How do they handle her when she is out walking? Is there a chance that she has had a bad experience with these other people? Do they live in your household, or are you talking about dog walkers? Sorry for all of the questions, but without more information it is pretty hard to advise on this. Perhaps you could give more details and then we can be of more help. My first thought is to work on strengthening the relationship between the dog and whomever else you want to walk her, with treats and play and lots of attention. It sounds to me as if there is a lack of trust for these other people and that will have to be addressed first. There may also be other fear issues at work here that will need attention.
  11. All the above advice is sound, and what I would have said. I will add only this: try a squeaky toy. I have seen that get the interest of a toyless dog when nothing else would. And make sure you look as if you are having a lot of fun with it.
  12. Sure you can save some money by just worming without the test. but worming medicines very often have highly unpleasant side effects for the dog, and I personally would never want to put my dog through that experience unless it were proven to be necessary.
  13. Ranch hand, it might be good for you to work a bit with that reluctance. Try giving treats every time the dog gets in. Act as though it is a trick you are asking him to do and when he does it he gets a treat. May as well train him to like getting in so you never have to boost him in.
  14. Karen Pryor clicker training has resources and information on this topic. Go to her website and you can read articles, and she may have books to purchase on the topic as well. I am also a huge fan of Suzanne Clothier. She has a website and has written books and articles; don't know what she has on fearful dogs, but you might want to check. Kikopup is also a good resource: Here There are other very good trainers out there. Do your search using such terms as "fearful dogs+positive reinforcement". Stay the heck away from Caesar Milan, and from anyone who advises anything other than positive reinforcement training for a fearful dog.
×
×
  • Create New...