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About D'Elle

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    Tucson AZ

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  1. That is hilarious!! If only all of our dogs had a favorite song that they wanted to run to, rainy or snowy day exercise would be so simple!
  2. Might help to remind Joey that everyone has his or her own learning speed. My guess is that if he thought back over his life, most especially when he was a child, he could think of something that took him a while to learn or to get used to. Maybe he was scared the first week of a new school, or it took him a long time to learn to do a sport he plays really well or whatever. That frustration is counter-productive and damaging to everyone. It is what it is, and you have to work with the dog you have today. Progress will definitely be made, but if he gets frustrated with the dog it will be slower than if he is accepting and patient.
  3. Could be a fear stage. But if it were my dog I wouldn't spend any time trying to figure out what stage it is or why she is reacting this way to those things. I would just deal with each thing without making it any big deal to the dog. So in other words, I would simply work whatever desensitizing protocols seemed to be appropriate and let these things pass on. It is not clear to me if she needs to go down the steps to get into the play area or to get out of it. either way, I would just make the area she needs to go down stairs to get to very, very inviting, and encourage her to come, but if she didn't come nothing happens, no pressure on her but she just doesn't get the good thing and so it is her choice. Eventually she is likely to give up her trepidation in order to get to the good things -- food, treats, play, walk -- that are offered to her if she comes down the stairs. And if it is not really important for her to use a certain set of stairs, like the basement, then I would probably just ignore the issue. Nails - go back to the beginning of training a dog to let you trim her nails, work up in baby steps with lots of treats, and perhaps try a rotary tool to see if that works better for her. I have found many dogs will accept that but not the clippers.
  4. Since I don't feed all raw or give my dogs bones, I brush their teeth and scale as necessary. I don't do it as often as I really should, but their teeth are pretty good because I use an excellent toothpaste on them. Actually, I started using it myself as well, and had more than one dentist tell me I was doing a great job of taking care of my teeth, which I had not ever heard prior to my use of this stuff. It will prevent plaque and if there already is a buildup, it will soften it and make it possible to chip it off your dog's teeth with a fingernail. I learned about it from my dentist. Expensive, but worth it. This is it: Ortene
  5. Video it and put it up on YouTube. It would be a hit!
  6. You can make your own, and then you know what exactly is in them and avoid things that might cause upset. My favorite is to take some kind of cooked meat, thoroughly cooled, and blender it with some of the cooking water and then mix in just enough tapioca flour to make a pancake-batter-like batter, and spread into a pyramid pan and bake. Other recipes are all over the internet if you look, but I keep mine simple. It is easy to make, cheap, I control the ingredients, and you can make a whole lot of them: tiny treats so you don't have to cut anything up. Don't use wheat flour, as they will come out crunchy instead of soft and will break up instead of coming out of the pan nicely. Pyramid mat
  7. You have a pretty boy there. One thing is the Golden Retriever in him. Goldens mature very late, as a rule, so that could be part of what is going on. but at a year and a half, focus is not going to be easy for most dogs. Just keep working with him. You can Google "focus exercises for dogs" and get hundreds of ideas on how to work with that.
  8. How are you sure he tells you every time he needs the toilet, and that this is something else? Is there a chance he is telling you he needs to go out and you don't notice? Just wondering. Have you had him seen by a vet and checked for infection or other issues lately? Have you cleaned the area where he goes with super good cleaners and made sure all traces of urine are gone? My best recommendation is that if he is only doing this in the kitchen, then block off the kitchen and do not allow him to go in there. Find creative ways of doing this so that you can still come and go but he cannot. It may be inconvenient for a few weeks until you break the habit, but the alternative (letting it go on) is worse. It is most important that you prevent his going into that area, because if you don't he will not stop doing this as it has now become a habit and even if you clean it up it is still smelling to him like his potty area. You have to use enzymatic cleaners that are designed for this purpose, and then use a black light to make sure you get it all. Just wiping it up or using ordinary kitchen cleaners won't do it because he will still smell his urine there and it will trigger him to go there again. So clean the area properly and then don't permit him into the kitchen again.
  9. Hide-and-seek is a great game for dogs. I used to play it daily with one of my border collies. the reward for finding it was a few throws for him to fetch, then I hid it again. He really loved that game.
  10. I second what GL says above. You are moving much, much too fast if you want to condition your dog to accept the rotary tool. The process should happen very gradually. On day one, you only show it to him and give treats. the next day, you can turn it on but have it farther away from him (unless he moves closer by himself) and give treats. Repeat on days 3 to 7. Don't get it any where near his feet for at least a week. Then, put it close to his feet but NOT turned on. More treats. Do this for a couple or three days. then, turn it on near his feet but do not touch his feet with your hands or your tool. More treats. Do this for a week every day. Any time that he looks scared or moves away, back the whole thing up and start over with the previous step. In other words, if he gets scared when you turn it on near his feet, go back to a few days of having it not turned on and giving treats, then try again. Seriously, if you want this to work you have to move at a glacial pace. If you rush it, you won't have success at all. And when the time comes to touch his feet, do not grab them! You shouldn't be touching his feet at all until he is completely comfortable with the tool being near him and turned on. And then, only touch his foot with one finger, gently. Work very slowly up to being able to take his foot --gently!-- with your hand.
  11. Either block off every piece of furniture that she can push a toy under or else keep the toys away from her unless you are supervising her and playing with her with the toys. She has made this into a game and trained you to play it. So, if you don't like the game it is up to you to change it. I think giving her a blanket to bury the toys under is a great idea. How about blocking off all the furniture (go to the Goodwill, buy old blankets or towels, use them to stuff under the furniture) and then give her a blanket, an empty cardboard box, whatever, to hide her toy under. Eventually she may grow out of it and you won't have to keep blankets stuffed under the furniture all the time.
  12. I always apologize to my dogs if I accidentally hurt them during nail trimming or anything else. I agree that it is best not to make a big fuss about it, but to give a little petting and niceness as an apology is only right. I don't want my dog to think that I did it on purpose, or that I didn't notice, or that I don't care. It's the same as when I accidentally bump into one of them or step on a paw. It is only right to make sure the dog knows that you care. From what you say I wouldn't worry a bit about the little cut on the paw, though. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't get infected. As for the nail trimming you might try a rotary tool. I had one dog who absolutely wouldn't allow her nails to be trimmed with clippers, but who permitted the rotary grinding tool just fine. The advantage to using it is that you can keep a close eye on what you are doing and stop when you get close to the quick, so you run much less chance of hurting them. Do make sure that if your dog has any long hair you keep it out of the way, though! Adding in a lot of nice talk and a treat after each nail is a good idea, so try that. But don't worry about his getting too traumatized if you take him to have his nails done professionally. I have found that with some dogs it's better to get them done by someone else because then the association is not with me, and I have had the experience of seeing a dog who fought like crazy when I tried to do it and then acted passive about it when the vet tech or groomer did her nails. You just gotta do what ever works.
  13. Just before coming to check the Boards here I was looking with much nostalgia at old photos of animals I no longer have, and found this one of my beloved Jester, Christmas 2003. This was the year that Jester came to me, and the photo was taken at a Fun Day organized by Southern California BC Rescue, the wonderful rescue from whom I got Jester. Jester died several years ago at the age of 15, and I still miss him a lot. That day everyone was trying to get their dogs to stay still for their photo with all the trappings around them, and I was immensely proud of Jester that he was the only dog who held a stay so nicely. RIP, Jester. Love forever.
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