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D'Elle

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About D'Elle

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    Tucson AZ

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  1. It sounds to me as if you are pretty much on the right track with handling this. I would just recommend to you that you give a "time out" in the crate Every Single Time that she growls or starts barking or otherwise in this manner misbehaves. Without exception. It only needs to be a short time, maybe 10 minutes, or until she settles if she starts barking in the crate. Make sure she is put into the crate with no corrective or punishing attitude on your part; I just like to say "uh-oh! time for the crate". If she is out on a walk and bites the leash, end the walk and all the fun stops. Make the walks short, not far from the house or a vehicle, and if she starts acting that way it is "uh-oh! walk over." and it's back to the house or car. Carry her if needed. Please don't see this behavior as "dominant". It isn't. Just normal non-aggressive puppy behavior. Just like a small human child, she is testing her boundaries. You wouldn't say that a 4 year old human being was being dominant if she acted out; your dog is much the same. By the way, we like puppy photos here. :-)
  2. I use Oratene toothpaste for dogs. This stuff I find it really is the best one. Highly recommended by vets. In fact, I use it myself on my own teeth. It doesn't have chemical flavorings and other stuff in it, which is good, but it doesn't taste bad either. It is excellent for helping to prevent build-up of plaque. And if there is build-up, you can rub it on the plaque every day and in a week or so the plaque will simply chip off with a fingernail. I scale my dogs' teeth when needed with a dental tool. But I only need to do this because I don't brush their teeth as often as I should. You don't even have to use a brush with this stuff, but I do. I wouldn't use an electric toothbrush myself. The sound might be nerve wracking for the dog, the vibration might be too harsh on the gums. Usually I use a pet toothbrush, although a regular one would work, and for the back teeth I get in there with my finger with a little rubber tooth cleaning thing on it.
  3. While I wouldn't argue with "choose what is right for you", I will reiterate that crate training is for the dog's own benefit, and as such is very important. Even if it is not necessary at home, you need to make sure your dog is comfortable being in a crate. At any moment there could be an accident or illness requiring your dog to be at the vet, and in a crate. If your dog is not comfortable in a crate, or has never been in one before, it will make being there unimaginably worse for your dog. Crate train as a favor to your dog in case he ever needs to be in one.
  4. Hi and welcome to the BC Boards. The first thing I would want to know is what has the instructor said at puppy class. And I would say, drop out of the puppy class, as it is making things worse. What has that instructor told you about his fear aggression toward the other puppies? Just wondering. Your pup needs to have some gentle work while he overcomes this problem, and putting him in with a bunch of other dogs in a class will not help with this, as it is overwhelming him. Are your other dogs social with new dogs they meet? If so, one thing you could do is try is taking short walks with both your puppy and one of your friendly dogs on leash. The reason for this is that if your pup sees that the other dog is friendly and not afraid, it might help. But the main thing is not to overwhelm your puppy with other dogs. If you do take him out with another one of your dogs, you would still follow the protocol below: If possible, get a friend with a calm friendly dog to help you with this. Take your pup out on leash and let the person with the other dog (on leash) be seen, but about a block away. As soon as your dog sees the other dog, give your dog treats, and speak in a very calm but upbeat voice: "Oh look, there's another dog. How cool. Now you get some treats". ....and then turn and walk away. Do not speak to your dog in a reassuring tone: "it's ooooookay..." because that will only tell him there's something to fear. Just speak normally, but with a smile in your voice. Repeat the session with the dog at a distance a few times. Only about 2 minutes each day. Then let the other dog get about 5 to10 feet closer and repeat there. And very slowly, over the course of many days (this could take as much as a month or more) the other dog gets closer, while you are giving treats. Make the sessions very short. Watch your dog very closely. The minute your dog gets tense, you end the session and the next time you have the other dog start back farther away again. Only move closer to the other dog if your dog seems relaxed at the distance you are before you move closer. You have to be very, very patient with this. This is slow counter-conditioning, and it cannot be rushed. Best of luck to you and let us know how it is going.
  5. Leash walking --- You need to get this down very thoroughly in the back yard before taking it on the street. And, you don't want ever to let her pull you even a tiny bit when you do take it to the street. Every single time that she pulls you on the leash and gets anywhere with it at all undermines all the work you are trying to do with training her to walk nicely on the leash. Do not let her pull. At all, period. Start out and the second she pulls, turn around without any comment and without jerking her leash and simply walk the other direction. She will pull again. Stop, turn around, go the other way. This means that at first your walks will simply be going back and forth on the sidewalk or path, and you will get nowhere. But this is the way to stop it. Take note, and this is important: the second she takes even one or two steps that is not pulling, praise her and go along with her where she wants to go. But the second she pulls again, turn around. Your dog is probably pretty smart. She will learn within a few days that only if she doesn't pull will she get to go anywhere. The door: Tell her to wait, or use the cue you are using that means that. Open the door a crack. When she lunges for the door, close it. Repeat endlessly. Do this without comment of any kind. Act as if it is simply a force of nature: her lunging at the door makes it close! Only when she is waiting does she get to go outside. This will take days or weeks to train fully, but each session will probably only take four or five closings of the door before she waits. Only expect a wait of two or three seconds at first. If the door is open a crack and she waits two or three seconds, then open it the rest of the way while saying your release word. You have to do this each and every single time she goes out the door. Later, as she gets better at waiting you can work very slowly up to having the door open all the way and she is waiting. Socks---Do not ever leave them anywhere that she can get to them. Roll over --Some dogs don't easily roll over, others do. If your dog doesn't want to do it, let it go.
  6. I would agree with GL that those books don't have much or any substance to tell you anything about border collies. My favorite books are not specifically about border collies, but are excellent for reading if you have any dog. They are: Bones Would Rain From The Sky by Suzanne Clothier as well as her other publications and pamphlets, The Other End Of The Leash by Patricia McConnell, A Pack Of Two by Caroline Knapp, and Karen Pryor's writings on clicker training. AVOID reading anything by Jon Katz who is an idiot and writes with great pride about how he so badly mishandled his border collies that he ended up killing one of them.
  7. Your dog knows when you leave her at home you are coming back. She has not had enough experience yet at being left in other places to know you are coming back. Just give it time and patience and don't reinforce her barking when this happens. Ignore her at the nose work lessons when she barks. You can practice while on walks. You could walk a distance away, maybe go behind a tree. Have your girlfriend wait until she stops barking, even for one second, and then reward her --fast, before she starts barking again -- with a treat. Then she may bark again. Wait again until she stops just to take a breath, and quick reward her. This will teach her that she is rewarded for being quiet, and ignored if she is barking. After two or three repetitions of this, you came back to her again, no big greeting, nothing exciting, and off you go again on your walk. Repeat daily until she gets the idea that if you walk away and hide, all she has to do is stay there calmly and not bark or get antsy, and she will get rewarded. A clicker is very useful as a tool with this kind of training. Your timing has to be correct, so you could even practice with one another, with you playing the barking dog, so that your girlfriend gets the timing down and doesn't end up rewarding the barking. You don't think the dog ever stops barking, but she does. Just for a second, but that is enough to start the training.
  8. Welcome to the BC Boards. I suggest you crate train your dog. You may not need to use it a lot at home, but it is important that a dog be crate trained for several reasons. Some places you may want to stay while travelling will only permit a dog if there's a c rate being used. Crate in the back of the car is a lot safer, especially on long car trips. And this: What is your dog needs to spend the night at the Vet, and has never gotten used to being in a crate? It will confuse and frighten him to be put into a crate if he doesn't understand what it is about, and that will make everything harder for him and for the vet staff. Additionally, while you have a person ready to care for him when you need, if that plan fell through you might need to board him and, again, a crate trained dog will be far more relaxed in that circumstance. To crate train him is to give him valuable skills for coping with life circumstances. As for ideas what to teach him to do...teach him to do anything you want. Teach him to pick up his toys and put them into the toy basket. To pick up your dropped keys and hand them to you. And so on. The sky's the limit. Kikopup has a great website and Youtube channel you might enjoy. Lots of ideas there.
  9. As GL has stated above, there is a lot of info on this. This is a normal "fear period" that many dogs go through, regardless of the breed. You can find a lot of info on this forum and other places on how to handle it. Best of luck.
  10. I kind of don't like articles like "what your dog's bad behavior says about you" because it really doesn't say near enough, as GL points out. It is one of those things wherein a tiny bit of information without the rest of the necessary information to go with it is likely to be more detrimental than helpful. I fear this is the case with this article. I kind of like the dog park one, though. Although my advice is always simply Don't Go There.
  11. I think that trekking pole would work just the same. It is the snap sound that gets their attention, and then they look at you and suddenly you are swinging a weapon above your head at them and off they go. it is surprising how well it works. Two large aggressive strong dogs once had my Jester down and they were going for his neck. I snapped out the baton and they took one look and ran. I was fully prepared in that case to start hitting them but actually I never have needed to yet.
  12. I don't know why you are trying to pick an argument over this, Flora and Molly. There's no point. The OP has left in a huff. This topic has burned out and there's no point in any of us continuing to go on about it. Your attempts to argue are simply provocative and are certainly not the least bit productive. I suggest we quit this thread entirely.
  13. No, not likely. Simply do your training with Zola far enough away, even when you are travelling or camping, that she cannot hear see or smell Nala. Otherwise you will not have a good time in training. As for her having lost all the training you have done, that is not likely either. It has just been "poisoned" by your attempts to do it all with another puppy present. Start from the beginning again, and act as if she has never learned anything, and reward and praise heavily for good responses. She will get back to where she was more quickly than she learned it initially, but be patient and do not try to rush ahead or skip any steps with her out of frustration. Be sure you only train her when you can be calm and loving and don't let her see or sense any frustration on your part or that will only makes things worse. She will be confused by that and it won't help. Make your training session very short, maybe 5 or 7 minutes, and do more than one a day. She will be fine if you are careful and go slowly and make sure that you don't ever give her your commands while she is with the other puppy. When she is older and her training has been proofed well, it will be different. Try not to be in a hurry for her to grow up. You will have the adult dog for many years, but the puppy for only a little while. Enjoy what you have.
  14. If you absolutely have to walk where there are dogs like this, I recommend carrying a weapon of some kind. I have lived in bad areas where there were lots of loose mean dogs and that is what worked for me. My favorite, although you need to check and see if it is legal in your area, is this: Tactical baton It is very handy, as it telescopes into a size easy to have on your belt. I have never once had to hit an attacking dog with it. They hear the snap it makes when you snap it out and run. Alternatively, a stick or umbrella, or walking or hiking stick will work. Most dogs will run as soon as you brandish something like that. I wouldn't do any kind of spray because the chance of it getting into your own dos'g eyes is much too great. But.....better that a weapon, don't walk there!! Even if you run the dogs off, the fear will still be there for your puppy. If at all possible, take your dog somewhere else to walk even if it means having to drive there. It's not good for your pup to be terrorized and it will make her afraid of all other dogs, especially as she is so young and impressionable. She could become a dog who is fearful and therefore possibly aggressive herself if she has experiences like that. Make sure she has good experiences with other dogs to counteract that. If it were me, I would do everything in my power to make sure my puppy was not ever terrorized by something like that again. That kind of thing as a repeated experience for a developing puppy can ruin the dog's outlook for life. A good counter-action would be enrolling your pup in a good socializing/beginning training class for pups her age.
  15. Approach it thusly: Do not attempt to do any training work whatever when the other puppy is in the picture. If you do, and your pup ignores you, you will be undoing all your hard work in training. So, play sessions with Nala are for play only and training happens when you are well away from Nala. If you need for your pup to stop playing and do something else, don't call her at all, just go pick her up or take her gently by the collar and take her elsewhere. I would do it very nicely with upbeat words (come on, Zola, let's go get a treat!) and add a treat into that action so that it's not as if all of the fun stops. Explain what you are doing to the owner of the other pup so that person can cooperate with you on this, and gather in her dog at the same time.
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