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About D'Elle

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    Tucson AZ

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  1. D'Elle

    Catching him in the act!

    ^^^This. I also have never known a border collie who took four years to mature. Goldens, definitely. But not border collies.
  2. Very beautiful dog you have there! If it were my puppy I would not permit larger dogs to body-slam her. It is, for me, to great a risk for injury. Hit the wrong way, or just landing on the ground wrong after being knocked off her feet, she could end up with popped ligaments or other serious injuries that would require surgery. Better safe than sorry, is my feeling. Maybe you can find (or even start) a border collie play group in your area? Border collies usually play very well together. As for the concrete, again I personally would not allow my young dog to run or play a whole lot on concrete because of the hardness of the surface and the damage it could do to the joints. Think of a young child running a lot on concrete. Probably not a great idea, as it puts too much strain on the feet and the joints in the legs. This is my take on it; others may have other points of view.
  3. D'Elle

    Catching him in the act!

    I second the suggestion of using a leash or light cord attached to the collar, making it much easier to grab the puppy on the fly. Even better, training in an "off switch" so the pup knows that there is time to be rowdy and time to settle. In my home, rowdy time doesn't happen unless I am actively playing with the dog. Any other time, the dog needs to settle down and be calm, or will be put into the crate for a time out. Making this distinction that play is only when initiated by you will give you control over this kind of thing. A few short play sessions with the puppy each day, if your schedule allows it, will reinforce this training. Now we play! Now you settle down. I would also keep the playing under some control and avoid letting the puppy get overstimulated. Just a note on the first response you got: I do not think you were being the least bit critical of your puppy, or negative, so don't worry about that. JMO. And, the behavior has nothing to do with herding. It is highly typical puppy behavior that I have seen in puppies from bulldogs to pit bulls to poodles to labradors and more. It's not herding, it's just puppy craziness and zoomies. Nothing bad, but needs to be curbed so you don't end up with an adult dog who thinks such things are OK. Let us know how it is going. :-)
  4. I agree with the advice you have had so far. Never, ever, hit the dog. Also, do not pet to try to reassure or calm him - you are simply from his perspective telling him that he is being a good dog for barking and that of course is reinforcing behavior you do not want. Use the crate a lot. If he won't settle down, put him into the crate, away from the thing or person he was barking at, or covered if it cannot be away. Leave him in there 5 minutes, let him out and pop him right back in if he starts again. Don't yell, hit, or do anything else that is punishment. don't say anything and don't be rough, just calmly put him into the crate. My attitude with this sort of thing is to imagine that it is not really me doing this, it is simply how the universe works. If he behaves badly, he goes into the crate. If he is good, he doesn't. Just action and consequence, no crime and punishment. Implacable and impersonal law of universe, like gravity. If you have this attitude and are absolutely 100% consistent with it (which means EVERYone else in your family must do exactly the same thing 100% of the time as well) he will realize that there is no way around it. I use this "law of universe" technique for many things I train a dog not to do. I also second the suggestion of the Look At That game, which I have used myself with a dog-aggressive dog, and it worked well.
  5. D'Elle

    Trouble teaching stand

    I have always taught it simply by having the dog in a sit by my side, then taking a little step forward using the foot closest to the dog, and holding a treat in my hand. If the dog doesn't stand, I take another very small step. As soon as the dog stands, click/treat. Repeat many times, but do not add the "stand" cue verbally until the dog is accustomed to standing as soon as you start to take that step forward. I have never had a problem with this interfering with my "wait" or "stay", because I never expect that unless I have given that cue. It is not one of the things that dogs tend to learn fast, like sit. So whatever method you sue, be patient. But never pull or push the dog into the stand position, as all you are teaching the dog then is that when you say that word you are going to pull or push them; they won't learn that they have to do it themselves.
  6. So glad to hear you are having some success. However, please don't go back to walking on a leash outside the yard just yet. Make sure that you have completely extinguished the unwanted behavior before you go out on leash again. Since it is hard to contain the dog on a leash outside the yard, and immediate consequences such as the crate are not available, she will have lots of opportunity to get away with the behavior, and I would bet dollars to donuts that it is the first thing she will do. Spend weeks in the back yard first. However long it takes before she is really solid and no longer tries to jump or to bite. If you push things too fast, before the good behavior is ingrained fully, you stand a very good chance of losing a huge amount of the work you have already done. One time of her getting away with it can undo weeks of good work. And when you are ready to go to the next step, only walk 20 feet or so out the gate at first so that you can easily take her back to the crate when she (inevitably) fails to maintain her good behavior outside the yard.
  7. I will toss in another agreement with the opinion that border collies can be breed snobs. My Jester was as good-natured a dog as one could find, but he did not suffer fools gladly. And according to him, any dog who got up in his face or tried to distract him from fetching (which was Very Serious Business) was a fool. He had many levels of saying "back off", starting with something very subtle and slowly escalating to snarl-snap. But, put him in a huge fenced-in enclosure with about 30 other border collies and he was fine with all of them. They "spoke his language", were his tribe.
  8. D'Elle

    Kirk, a female Border Collie, watching herself

    Whatever the answer to that is, that video is a delight to watch.
  9. D'Elle


  10. In your situation, there's a good chance I would cease the walks until this is corrected, because unless you can pick up the dog and subdue him and walk home carrying him like that, you are, as you have noticed, in a bit of a pickle. Work on this only in the back yard. Don't worry about enough exercise while you are doing this. For one thing, the training is more important, for another mental exercise is every bit as important and tiring as physical. I would keep my eye on the dog constantly. Literally constantly. Learn the body language that leads to the unwanted behavior and you may learn some of the triggers. When the dog starts to jump and bite, he gets taken by the collar, without any harsh body language, and no words at all except an initial No, and he gets put into his crate. All the fun stops. He stays in the crate for 10 minutes, then comes out without comment from you and you go back to the yard. As soon as he starts up, back into the crate. Because he has been doing this for a while, and it is self-rewarding, it will take a while to extinguish it. But you can do it; just be persistent and never give him an opportunity to continue it. Best of luck!
  11. D'Elle


    Have fun watching them change. Some of my favorite puppy photos are of border collies whose ears kept changing. Floppy, airplane, tipped, airplane, one up one down, then finally pricked. It's hilarious to watch. Make sure you take photos. (As if I have to tell you that!)
  12. D'Elle

    Collie Breeding

    This person is a troll who is only trying to get everyone's backs up, pick a fight, whatever. First she says " I am happy – nay thrilled – to be excluded from this forum. It will be a welcome reprieve from the clear in-breeding – pun intended." Then she goes on to write endless paragraphs in several posts which none of us find useful in any way. I don't even find them interesting. All she wants to do, and is doing, is wasting our time. We have better things to do than respond to this person. If you don't respond, she will go away.
  13. D'Elle


    No food for thought here. It is very clear from what the author says that she knows nothing about how positive reinforcement training, or working with a clicker, works. Nor does she understand how it is done. She makes several fallacious statements in this article of hers, revealing her ignorance. It is always so easy to criticize something about which you know nothing. Very good article, Baderpadordercollie. Thanks.
  14. D'Elle

    Lunging at bikes

    If a puppy pulls me, I stop abruptly and go in the other direction. And again, and again. sometimes the walk is actually going around in circles. But as soon as the puppy takes one or two steps without pulling, we go forward. They figure out eventually that if they want to get anywhere they can't pull. Your puppy is young, so it will take time. Just be patient. I also recommend the control unleashed puppy book. Good luck and welcome to the Boards.
  15. D'Elle


    ^ what she said. Make sure you start out with the easiest thing, not with his food bowl. A short sit stay of a few seconds, then praise and treat. Short down stay the same. Then, sit and stay for a few seconds longer, and so on. Then....Doggie Zen. Sit on the floor. Put a treat on the floor with your hand over it. As soon as the dog stops trying to get the treat, praise and reward with the treat. When the dog figures out that he has to refrain from mugging your hand to get it and as soon as he backs off he gets it, you have started on impulse control. Very, very slowly increase the time the dog waits for it, and add in your "wait" or "leave it" command, then release him with another cue and lift your hand. When this is really good, you can start lifting your hand a bit so that the dog can see the treat while he is waiting. If he lunges for it, back down goes the hand and you back up to several steps previous and make that solid again. The idea is that eventually you can put something down on the floor, even his food bowl, and say your cue and he will wait to get it until you tell him it is OK. This also teaches him that the food bowl is not controlled by him, but by you. I taught this to one of my dogs, who bolts his food. Slowly built it up to where now, I can say "wait" and he stops eating and sits down. I can then put something extra in the bowl, pick it up, whatever, and then release him to eat again.