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About D'Elle

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    Tucson AZ

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  1. Agree with the above. My best advice - Love the dog you're with. Now, I know you love your dog, I don't mean it literally. But acceptance of who he is, all quirks included, is part of that love. I have learned that lesson, and it makes all of my interactions with all of the animals who come into my life, whether as my own or fosters or client's dogs I am training, so much easier. I know it sounds hokey, but really your (my, anyone's) attitude has a lot to do with how the dog . Think of a dog as bad or aggressive or difficult or stupid or what have you, and that will be the dog you have. Think of the dog as just fine the way he is, even if a certain behavior needs some work, and things are easier. Now, having said that, I don't tolerate biting, and you might want to see a behaviorist on that. But first, quit using a harness. Many dogs don't like it. I have a dog who will just sit down and refuse to go for a walk if I put a harness on him. So try a collar, maybe different kinds, find out what is OK with him. Plus, you can leave the collar on him and then all you have to do is clip on the leash. Maybe that would work for him. I would just experiment.
  2. I am not surprised that he doesn't want to spend the whole day outside all by himself! I would suggest taking him for walks. Go out the front door with him on a leash, and take him for a nice walk away from the house every day and then let him be inside if he wants to. In my opinion, all dogs need to go for walks away from home even if they have a nice big yard, to give them new things to see and smell. I think your dog simply doesn't want to be outside all the time any more, especially now that he no longer has a companion. I personally don't think people should leave their dogs out all the time. Border collies in particular really need human interaction, and leaving them outside all the time without people being with them is not good for them, nor is it nice to the dog. Let him be inside with you and interact with him more. Teach him things, play with him, hang out with him and let him be with you during the day when you are home. You may find that if he gets more attention this anxiety will pass.
  3. Oh, it's too bad you have two such puppies.....but I will take one or both of them off your hands if you like. They are so cute. Thanks for posting the photo. I am also hugely grateful for this forum, and don't know what I'd do without it at this point. I am glad you enjoyed Kelso's story. I am going for a hike with Kelso and his person the first week of December, and will be sure to post photos.
  4. Just my opinion - but that is what you asked for - I probably wouldn't let a pup at that age run free on 2 acres. The main reason being that I would very likely still be working hard on a solid recall cue, and there isn't any way to enforce it if you let the dog free in a fairly large space like that. If I had already a solid recall, I would allow it, but would curtail that activity if the recall started getting mushy. I personally would not worry about poop, because a dog either will or will not eat/roll in poop, and that applies to adult dogs as well; you can't really enforce that the dog's whole life. At 5 or 6 or 8 months old your pup may be more reliable, or may be less so. A lot depends on training and how consistent you are with that, but it is also something that differs among dogs. Aome are pretty reliable at a young age, others take two years to grow up, so I wouldn't base your decisions on his chronological age.
  5. Sue, thank you for writing such a beautiful and very interesting tribute to Celt. He was clearly a special dog, and I love your accounts of how well he could read the cattle and know how to move with them, especially how he was sensitive to the young first-calf heifers. I feel your loss, as I also have lost exceptional dogs, and wish you more days of smiles at the memories and less pain for the loss. I know I will miss both Jes and Kit, my two most recent border collies, for the rest of my life, but I also know there will be others I will love. It's worth it, and I always feel blessed to have had such companions. I can see you feel the same, and my heart goes out to you with both sadness and a smile.
  6. I agree with the above advice, although that doesn't necessarily mean you cannot ever go back to playing inside. The important thing is to impress on the dog that YOU are in control of the toys, when and where and for how long you play, and that pestering never gets positive results. Once that is fully in the dog's mind, you may be able to go back to playing indoors. But even then, you remain in control of the toys, which may or may not mean that they are out of reach of the dog. My Jester was a fetch maniac. He'd rather fetch than eat. I had a toy basket full of stuffed sheep for him to play with indoors, and he could go get one any time he wanted to. But if he brought me one to throw when I had not told him to, he got ignored, and the toys got put away, so he never did. He would sometimes sit several feet away from me and stare, hoping I would tell him "Bring me a sheep" so he could fetch, but I decided that staring was acceptable.
  7. I rarely go to sites showing how to train anything to a dog unless I know the source or someone I trust recommends it to me. So many of them are cruel to the dogs and I can't stand it, so I understand how you feel. I am not one who never says "no" or, for that matter, would never scold if the transgression were especially bad. But I would never hit or cause physical pain in any other way, and don't think that is ever necessary. Or fair.
  8. People in my Freestyle club use a mirror to see what the back paws are doing, and the same for teaching the dog to work behind our backs. We also have practiced with each other -- one person stands behind the handler and does the click when the dog is in the right position, then the handler gives the treat. One thing that really helps is to teach the dog the different places to be: in front, at each side, and behind. These are taught as specific behaviors that get rewarded. If the dog knows a move, and knows the position cue, you can cue the dog into position, and then give the cue for the specific move.
  9. Climate change. All sorts of strange things are happening. Here, we had saguaro cactus trying to bloom in September. Completely wrong.
  10. I endorse the above. Make all the interactions with her count. I LOVE her face.♥♥ And I want to put my face right in that little belly of hers! She is utterly adorable.
  11. If you have learned to tone down your dog-obsessed-enthusiasm, you're better than I! I am one of those "don't get her started" types when it comes to dogs, especially if it is about training. I am an introvert; not good at conversation with people I don't know. But I can carry on a conversation with just about anyone willing to talk dogs. (As long as the sub-topic isn't conformation).
  12. Oh, oops --- forgot! sorry 'bout that! Guess I should say - maybe suggest to the dog's owner that she try not using a harness?
  13. Every one is different, each has his or her own personality. I don't think there's any way to say that Aussies are more or less XYZ than border collies, or the other way around. I have had a number of border collies come through my home as a foster home and I have seen the gamut of personalities. As for off switch - that is a training matter. I have known a number of aussies although have never had one, and have seen a very wide range of personalities in that breed as well. Get your new dog from a rescue and you will have the best chance of getting the personality you seek, of either breed. An adult dog is already showing his or her personality right away and the person who has had the dog as a foster will be able to tell you all about the dog.
  14. In this case, a person shouldn't stop messing with the harness. I would give the yelp and hold onto the harness for a moment, then continue with putting it on or whatever. If this ends up turning into a little battle of repetition, then I'd crate the pup for 5 minutes or 10, and then go at it again. Another thought I have is this: is there a reason the OP is using a harness? Maybe your dog doesn't like harnesses. Neither of my dogs do, and will fight them every time, whereas with a collar they are perfectly behaved. Maybe you should just use a collar with the leash and the problem will be solved. Might be worth a try.
  15. This will not cause aggression. And I am definitely a positive reinforcement trainer. The thing is, positive reinforcement doesn't mean you don't set boundaries and it doesn't mean the dog gets away with what he is not supposed to do. Training is training, and has a purpose and needed result, and you do need to be the boss on this. Setting boundaries and making rules has nothing to do with aggression on either your part or the dog's. Think about how a pack of dogs, or a mother dog, raises a puppy. If the puppy nips or gets too annoying, one of the adult dogs will snap at the pup or hold it down with a paw or drive it away. This is natural. For you to discipline your dog -- always with kindness, not with anger, never with violence -- is natural as well. I have never tried "sit on the dog", and am not so sure I like that technique. I also admit I don't know anything about it, but I don't think I would use it unless I had an extreme example of a frantic pup with whom all other approaches did not work. Patience. Consistency. Persistence. Patience. Insisting on the pup behaving as you wish, and if not there are consequences. Patience. That's it in a nutshell. Oh, and did I mention patience?()
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