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D'Elle

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About D'Elle

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    Female
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    Tucson AZ

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  1. D'Elle

    Barking at sheep + Pulling on lead

    If you are only going to be around sheep a short time, it may or may not be worth it to you to train her out of the barking, but if it were I, I would do it. I recommend the book "Control Unleashed", and the "Look At That" game. Look At That This is a good one for the dog to know in any case, as it applies to anything to which the dog is reactive. As for pulling on the leash, when the dog pulls, turn around abruptly and go the other direction. This may mean you go two feet in one direction, then three feet in the other, then three feet again and so on. But as soon as the dog is not pulling, he can go forward. Reward with praise when he is not pulling, immediately stop and go the other way when he pulls again. This may take a long time. All you can do is continue to be consistent. There is no magic wand with a dog who wants to pull, but eventually they learn that there's no forward motion unless they walk nicely. I am not a fan of martingale collars, as they can injure the dog's neck if the dog hits the end of the leash and gets jerked to the side. You could try an Easy Walk or other front-attach harness, but it works for some and not for others. The stress drooling is a problem. Normally I would invite you to do a complete desensitization protocol, but if you are currently traveling that isn't possible so you will just have to live with it, although it pains me to think of the dog being stressed out so much of the time. If she is not food motivated but loves praise, consider yourself lucky. You can train all the same things and save money on buying treats.
  2. If I had a dog who was doing that while walking, I would say NO, and have the dog sit or lie down. I would then stand there for perhaps 30 seconds, keeping the dog in a sit or down (if necessary, putting my foot on the leash), not talking to the dog, and then let the dog up and continue the walk. I would do this about three times and the fourth time the walk would be over. The dog would be on a short leash, not allowed any sniffing or fun, and marched back to the house. If you do that, the fun stops. Again, please do this without anger, without ever jerking the dog or having an attitude of punishment. A simple attitude of neutrality is best. Do this=this happens, and that's all. I try to think of it as if it were simply a law of the universe, like gravity. That keeps the relationship between you and the dog positive, keeps you from getting angry or frustrated, and works the fastest. If you think he is doing it out of tiredness and or frustration, then stop the walk or training before he reaches that point. Make the walks/training sessions very short.
  3. Yes, you are on the right track. I would practice what you are doing, every day, until he feels comfortable being on the leash going around the yard for at least a couple of weeks before you take him off your property. His reluctance on the leash actually gives you a good opportunity to train loose leash walking and/or a heel position, because you can do the one step/one treat method to keep him close to you. In this method, he learns that being close to you when on the leash is a desirable position to maintain, because he is getting rewarded all the time. I would recommend that you start on training recall as well. I like to use a whistle and train the dog to come to a whistle sound as well as my voice, because the whistle will carry farther and be easier to hear if the dog ever gets lost outdoors. I use a slim shrill high pitched whistle. Just blow it in a short pattern that will be the pattern you always use, then call the dog by name, and when he comes he gets a treat. Do indoors, outdoors, several times a day. On leash, off leash, use it to call him to dinner, etc.
  4. There's probably no way you will figure out the why, and it doesn't matter. Just make sure she never sees this guy again. Shut her in another room, put her outside, or do whatever you need to do to make sure she is never around him. A dog that bites someone is putting her life in danger and opening you up for potential lawsuits. Make sure it never happens again.
  5. You don't say for how long you have been giving him a "time out" in his crate for this, but it sounds as though you have tried other methods and therefore perhaps have simply not given this one enough time. What I would do if it were a dog in my care is say "No!" firmly but without anger, not loudly, and then put the dog in the crate, as you are doing. The dog doesn't have to be picked up to be put in there; taking the dog by the collar may be more effective in any case. Have the crate in another room and close the door so the dog is isolated, and leave him there 10 minutes. When you let him out, don't be cheerful or angry either one - just neutral. The second he lunges again, back into the crate. Use only this method, no others. And do it as many times a day as is necessary. It might take several weeks to break him of this habit, so don't get discouraged and think the method isn't working. Unfortunately, you used several different things, and unwittingly rewarded him for a while for doing this by giving him a toy and this may mean it takes longer to break him of the habit. You just have to be persistent and 100% consistent. Eventually he will stop doing it, as it never gets him anything he wants. He is still a baby, and he will be persistent as well. You just have to outlast him. Best of luck and keep us informed so we can help. :-)
  6. So, next time you are watching the dog in the house don't take eyes off him for a moment. That way, as soon as he even starts to hunch into poop position you can hustle him outside so that he poops outside and gets praised heavily for it. Much better to create a situation where he does the right thing and gets rewarded, than to let him do the wrong thing and get a corrective action enforced. You can stop him from doing it rather than catching him in the act.
  7. D'Elle

    New Puppy Older Female BC

    Please don't scold your older dog for setting boundaries with the puppy. It may set up a situation wherein your older dog associates the puppy with being hassled, then being scolded for saying "no" to the puppy, and the result is that she may never like the puppy. It is your responsibility to set things up so that the older dog is never hassled to the point of having to get angry with the puppy. The advice above is sound: monitor interactions closely and prevent the puppy from pestering her. Give the older dog space and never leave the two alone (as I am sure you already know). Give your older dog extra love and special time with you. In time things will be likely to settle down. Just a story to encourage you: I had a foster puppy that my adult male snarled at and my adult female wanted to kill. Seriously. I couldn't turn my back on them for a minute. I took the puppy with me to work every day because I was afraid even to leave her in a crate in the house with the older dog. One day about two weeks after I got the foster puppy, I brought the pup into the house one evening and somehow everything had changed miraculously during the day. Suddenly my male dog was kindly-uncle-with-patience-of-Job, and the female adult was Mamma Dog. She looked after the puppy constantly, washed her, let her take her food, and protected her from all real and imagined threats or dangers. It was amazing. Not saying this will happen with yours, but be patient and manage the situation and most likely it will end up OK. Best of luck with that cute puppy!
  8. D'Elle

    Is a BC right for me?

    I predict that your son will fall in love with the Golden and all will be well. It would as I am sure you know, be unwise to get a breed of dog that would really not be suitable for you because that is what an 8 year old wants. Goldens are wonderful dogs; I like them a lot, and they are notoriously good with children of all ages. You of course need to train, and they require a lot of brushing, but there's no way you would get one and your son would not like the dog. It sounds as though that needs to be your choice. Border collies are really not the dog for everyone. Your son has a whole lifetime in which to grow up and get his own BC when he is ready for the dog as an adult and the golden will give him some dog experience in the meantime. Best of luck to you!
  9. What Gentle Lake said. If you live 5 hours away there may not be anything you can do to assist them. But see if you can get on their mailing list, and then they will email you when a "Fun Day" or other event is scheduled. If you are willing to drive to get there, you can then go to some and let them get to know you. Main thing is, don't be pushy. Let it take the time it takes. I spent a year letting them get to know me and it was well worth it. Since you may not be ready for a year anyway, you have the time. The events are fundraisers as well, so see what you can do to help set up and clean up. I never left one of the events until I had helped to the very end of the cleanup. I didn't talk about myself; just let my actions speak. This is a good approach in any group.
  10. Take yummy treats along with you on the walk. Or, better yet, take him for his first walk before breakfast and carry his kibble in your pocket with you. Whenever he is by your side tell him how good he is and give him a treat. If he walks nicely with a loose leash, even for a few feet, praise and give treat. If he surges ahead and pulls on the leash, abruptly turn around and go the other way. When he is at your side or nicely in front again, treat. No need for corrective jerks on the leash, which I advise against, no need for corrective words. Just action and consequence. So the pup learns: If I walk nicely along I get to go where I want and I get treats. If I try to pull my person along I don't get to go where I want. Running back to you is another thing to treat. If he has the habit of coming to you when something is new and different that is a good thing.
  11. Use a crate. Basically, I always tell people to obtain a crate before they bring a new dog home, and to use a crate with a new dog of any age. All dogs should be comfortable with a crate. It doesn't mean you will end up using it a whole lot in the future necessarily, but all dogs should be OK with going into and staying in one for many reasons. What if the dog is injured and has to stay at the vet hospital? He shouldn't have fear of a crate added to the stress. If you want to travel with the dog, many hotels will allow dogs only if crated. Dog events require crates. And so on. AND it is the best potty training tool.
  12. D'Elle

    Is a BC right for me?

    Have you had a border collie before? Just wondering. You can make a good life for a border collie even if you work full time; I have done so and many others have as well. The main thing to ask yourself is: do you really, really want to spend a good portion of your time doing things with your dog? Not just, are you willing to do so...do you want to? If the answer is yes, you can be a good border collie owner. If you are more likely to get distracted, perhaps by your kids, and your kids get distracted by other activities, and end up not having enough time for the dog, then get a less demanding breed or mix. Please read all of the "Read This First" on these forums. Be very careful where you get the dog, if you get one. I strongly recommend getting a dog from a BC rescue, and not from a breeder. But if you go to a breeder, please be certain that it is a reputable breeder, who breeds only for working ability and doesn't show dogs in AKC events or other dog events and shows that are about physical appearance and not ability. There is lots of info here about why. Finally, be aware that a border collie doesn't need to be entertained all of the time. They need a lot of attention, training, fun, play, and exercise, but they also need down time. You don't have to have a schedule that allows for many hours of work with the dog daily. A good rule of thumb for a young border collie perhaps 2 years old is about 2 hours every day and longer times such as hikes or long walks in nature once a week or so. If you get a dog under a year old, be sure not to over-exercise the pup, as you can damage the dog physically as well as "creating a monster", who will then demand attention a great deal of the time.
  13. D'Elle

    Bald elbow?

    Most dogs have this by a certain age if they have not spent their entire time on carpets, soft grass, or rugs. Nothing to worry about.
  14. If she already knows "leave it", then train her to leave her bowl of food untouched until you release her to have it. Also, teach her that you are allowed to tell her "wait", and she must stop eating, and sit until you let her go back to her food. You should always be able to pick up her bowl at any time, or reach for it or put something into it without her objecting. This is very important. One of my dogs is a food inhaler. I have trained him to stop eating at my cue and sit and wait for 30 seconds until I let him continue. Until I taught him to do that he was choking on his food all the time. It isn't as hard to train as it may sound.
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