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D'Elle

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About D'Elle

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    Female
  • Location
    Tucson AZ

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  1. D'Elle

    Keeping my busy boy busy!

    I would second the warnings about those bones, and add a recommendation that you not permit your pup to chew up wood or paper, either. Paper bits can be swallowed and then form a congealed mass in the stomach that is hard or impossible for the dog to pass. I have known this to happen to a dog I knew. Wood bits are splintery and can lodge in the throat or in the stomach and pierce internal walls and/or cause obstruction. There's a reason that so many hard-to-destroy dog toys are made; because most things that puppies or chewing adult dogs choose to chew up are actually dangerous. Get your puppy a bunch of hard chew toys and don't permit other things to be used. If she ignores them at first, just don't allow her to have alternatives and eventually she will use them. You won't forgive yourself if you permit her to harm herself with those things you are letting her have. (And your checking account might take a while to recover as well!)
  2. D'Elle

    Raising a calm city pup

    Not only has he learned, he has also taught you what works to train him. I have found that the dogs I have trained taught me far more than I taught them, in the long run. Congrats on the great progress. :-)
  3. I don't know your location. If the dog were here I would want a Valley Fever test but you may not be where that is found. Congestive heart failure could be another cause of it. Fluid collecting in the chest cavity could also be a cause, or a problem with one of his lungs or both. If it were my dog I would go back to the vet and consult once again. Sending best wishes.
  4. D'Elle

    Elderly dog's possible seizure?

    Sue, I have not experienced this. I just want to say that I feel for you and for Megan, going through this. If it were my dog I would find it very upsetting. Sending you both good mojo and a gentle ear rub for Megan.
  5. D'Elle

    Seemingly unhappy 10 week old

    If I were in your position, I would simply concentrate all my effort on being as sweet and gentle and understanding with the puppy as possible. Aside from mild corrections when she does something completely unacceptable like biting hands, I would spend my time making sure the puppy got the impression that the whole world is fun and safe and loving. Basically, that is how I feel puppies should be treated in general. You have not ruined this puppy, and it is good you have realized your mistakes and are not going to repeat them. She's just a baby right now and she will very likely turn out fine if you handle her correctly from now on. As for cuddling, I would probably spend time with her on the floor even when it is not play time, and see if she will come be near me on her own. If so, and she is calm, then treats and maybe a very soft slow petting of back near the tail or belly if she is on her back. I would avoid her head. Maybe she's just a dog, like many, who doesn't ever want to be petted on the head.
  6. D'Elle

    Raising a calm city pup

    Excellent. Please report back and let us know how it is going. Also do not forget that everyone here likes puppy photos.
  7. Jambuel, training other people is always much harder than training a dog. I sympathize with your situation. I cannot advise on how to handle the kids because I have never had any but it is probably not much different from how to handle adults in that situation. What I have done is sit down with whoever was doing things that undid my training efforts and have a very serious talk with them. I explain that training my dog is a serious business to me, and is necessary in my life as well as being something I love to do. I explain the ways in which a well trained dog benefits from that training: less anxiety because the dog knows what is expected and has no doubts as to his or her place in the scheme of things, a well trained dog can go far more places, everyone loves a well trained dog so he or she will get positive experiences with people all the time instead of negative ones, how the training builds a stronger bond between me and my dog, and so on. Then I explain how what they are doing undermines my efforts to give this important gift to my dog and myself. How it works against what I need to do. I suggest it is the same as if they had a garden they were trying to grow and I came and stepped all over it regularly. I compare it to something I may know that other person feels is important, something the other person is working on, and how I could undermine it if I did not treat their efforts with respect. Most of the time people get it. If they refuse, they simply don't get to be around my dog at all which usually means the end of that relationship, but I don't consider it a great loss, as that person has refused to respect my simple needs which would cost them nothing. I know you cannot do that with your own kid. But maybe this approach might help you with explaining to them why it is important and they need to follow your lead on this. Best of luck!
  8. D'Elle

    Raising a calm city pup

    I would suggest limiting these exposure times in stores or at bus stops to ten minutes tops. You don't want to over-stimulate him and that is very easy to do with such a young pup. Work on leash training at home and only when it is really solid at home should you take him on leash elsewhere, because if you take him into a store and he gets to pull around on the leash and act nutty, you are un-doing your training efforts at home. What he is being taught if you let him do that is that he has to behave on a leash at home, but when in a store he can get away with pulling, and this is the exact opposite from what you want him to learn. It is not futile to get him to walk quietly on a leash. But you cannot expect him to do it in such a stimulating environment. You need to train hard at home, and then work up to a more stimulating environment very, very slowly. If you still want to take him to quiet areas of a store and work with him as you have been, and I see nothing wrong with that, I would suggest carrying him to that spot rather than allowing him to pull wildly on the leash to get there. This crazy behavior on the leash, while normal for a pup that age, is also a self-rewarding behavior and you don't want to allow it. If you cannot carry him to a spot, then try going somewhere that you can simply let him out of the car and then stay with him close to the car and work the same way with people who walk by, rewarding for calm behavior and working on his focus. Leash manners will not "come with time" unless they are carefully and consistently trained, and proofed carefully at each baby-step level working up to being in public in a stimulating place. If you let this go until later, it will only be much harder to train, especially with a border collie; they are so smart they don't miss a thing and he will know that he can get away with it sometimes even if not at others.
  9. D'Elle

    Potty training vs marking

    I have had similar not-helpful experience with the belly band with a foster dog. I don't doubt it has worked with some dogs, though, and clearly it worked for Hooper2 in that one situation, which is interesting to learn. I would recommend against it, though, for the very reason that GL gives above: if it doesn't work, it will only set the training back even farther. Better not to risk that, and start out with the training instead.
  10. You are still allowing him to perform self-rewarding behaviors. Do you want him to bark? Do you want him to pull on the leash trying to get to a visitor? If that is not behavior you want, then don't give him the opportunity to do it. Every time you do, he gets reinforced that this is fun and allowable behavior. As I said before, remove him from the situation with new people entirely while you work on his training. If you don't, you are un-doing all the training work that you will hopefully be putting into changing his behavior.
  11. D'Elle

    Look Ma, No Crate.

    I never said there was a benefit to reading it. I was saying it has no connection to raising a BC puppy; the OP seemed to imply that it did, buy posting a link to the book. I personally enjoyed reading it, though, as it is well written and is about a man's close relationship with a good and rather unusual dog. I am puzzled as to why you would even say this. This is a forum about dogs. Dogs are not remotely like wild animals, and cannot be viewed in the same way, and how you treat a dog has no relation to how wild animals do things. Of course you were being ironic or sarcastic or whatever, but what is the point of being that way? It doesn't help the conversation, which you say you want to have, along in any way.
  12. Put him in a crate or another room as soon as a visitor arrives and do not permit him to have access to them at all. Clearly from what you say he is continuing to jump on people and this is self-rewarding behavior, even if you correct him, because he still got in the jump. Remove him from the situation so he has no chance to do this. Then work hard on training him into a calm position. "Go to your mat", "settle" a sit-stay, whatever you choose. Work and work on it. Proof it in all the different rooms of the house. Then, once you get it very solid and he will stay for at least one minute without moving, move on to having one friend who agrees to work with you come to the house. Put him into the stay. If he breaks it when the person comes in, he goes into the crate or other room and has no contact with that person. Repeat. If he stays on the mat for 5 seconds with the person at the door, then he gets praised big time, a treat, and he gets leashed up (so you can control him) and gets to meet the person. If all 4 feet don't stay on the ground, he goes into the crate again. Repeat. Work very gradually on this and don't get ahead of yourself. He may have setbacks. If he does, go back a few steps and start over from there. He will never learn to calm himself down on his own. It is up to you to train him in this. A book that might help is called "Control Unleashed", specifically the "look at that game".
  13. D'Elle

    Potty training vs marking

    No jar of pennies. That will make things worse. What you need to do, since you know this behavior happens under certain circumstances, is watch him very closely in those situations. Don't take your eyes off him! Read his body language. I can tell with my male dogs when they start to think about peeing, well before they lift a leg. You need to be able to tell this as well, and that takes close observation of your dog. Then when you see that "tell" sign, that is when you calmly and quietly say No or uh-uh to the dog and put him outside, just as you would with a puppy. Please be sure you don't yell, stomp, or take him harshly by the collar. Do not express anger to the dog; just take him gently and firmly outside as if he were a baby who did not know better. I don't personally think a belly band is a good idea because it will not address the behavior at all, and that is what you need to take care of asap. It doesn't matter what the source of this is: marking or losing training or what. The solution is the same and that is what you need to focus on. best of luck and let us know how it goes.
  14. D'Elle

    Look Ma, No Crate.

    I have read that book, and in fact own a copy of it. It is a good book, and worth reading. but the story there in no way is similar to raising a border collie puppy. The dog in this book is an adult, for starters, and has lived on his own for some period of time, although how long is not known (although he was not feral). Another thing is that the author and owner of the dog in the book lives in a very small cabin the mountains, far removed even from the closest town, which is a very small town. Even his neighbors are not close by. He allows the dog to come and go from his house freely, which may be a controversial approach to some folks, but that is what the book is about. I fail to see any correlation between that situation and raising a border collie puppy in a house in town.
  15. D'Elle

    How can I use his focus?

    My experience with a ball or frisbee obsessed border collie was that it was very tricky trying to use it as a training tool. He would not focus on anything else, including my training cues, if he could see the ball or a frisbee. I tried training him with that as a reward, but eventually gave that up and used other positive reinforcement methods to train (food worked for him), and then used the fetch game as a final big reward at the end of every training session. You might try that. It sounds as if your dog is the way mine was, so I suggest that you don't let him see the ball when you go out for a walk. Do your training session for a nice leash walk, reward him with treats and/or praise as you train, and then take him to your yard or other secure place where he can fetch for a short time as his reward for a good training session.
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