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Hooper2

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  1. Hooper2

    Place Fear

    I concur with the suggestion to purchase some cheap non-skid mats. My elderly girl has become more and more tentative walking on my tile floors as her rear end muscles have weakened. Then I added a puppy to the household, and her fear of slipping went up exponentially as the little demon buzzes around her. Adding some strategically placed carpet runners has improved her quality of life immensely, and I'm kicking myself that I didn't think of yoga mats as a cheaper alternative. Genius! As others have said, mats and desensitization aren't mutually exclusive. You can certainly continue to work on desensitizing, but adding a non-slip pathway through your kitchen may prevent setbacks that could occur if your dog slips again. And, trust me, I know this is easier said than done, but try to limit your dog's roughhousing to non-slippery surfaces as best you can. Dogs and puppies can experience some pretty serious injuries bashing into each other on a slick surface. Also. Adorable photos ;-)
  2. I have a dog that shows a mild version of what you are describing - very subtle stiffness and uneven weight distribution that comes and goes, and most people wouldn't notice if they didn't know the dog well. I've been taking him to an ortho vet for a couple months now doing cold laser treatments (not totally convinced how effective they are, but the only thing they are likely to hurt are my bank account), massage, and underwater treadmill exercise. He has improved tremendously although maybe once or twice a week I'll still see some mild stiffness that he usually walks off on his own with a good stretch and a few strides. So, yeah, your dog's symptoms could be due to a soft tissue injury of some sort (besides an ACL), some mild arthritis, or as GL suggested, may be a tick borne disease.
  3. Hooper2

    Keeping a reactive dog occupied

    "With it on" are the operative words here. It would take a matter of seconds for a dog to chew or pull a doggy chastity belt off. You are lucky that Wellington is young and probably less determined than he would be if he were older. You reeeaaaallllly need to talk to some experienced dog breeders and/or veterinarians before you keep an intact male and an in-season female in the same household again. Normally, I'm not a big proponent of neutering dogs. In your case, absolutely make sure Wellington is neutered before Lola comes into season again.
  4. Hooper2

    Keeping a reactive dog occupied

    YIKERS. Dogs have been known to mate with a chain link fence between them. A pair of panties will keep Iola from dripping blood on your floor, but they aren't going to do anything to prevent breeding. And as others have said, the fact that Iola snaps at Wellington means nothing. She'll snap at him until she decides she's ready, and the way that you'll know she's ready is that she'll allow him to mount her. Go to this site and read it. Here's one relevant quote from the site: Keep your two dogs separated for at least 3 weeks from the time Iola first came in season. Separated means one dog is crated in a different room with the door to the crate and the door to the room both closed. Breeders with tons of experience raising litters spend big bucks on progesterone tests to determine when exactly in her heat cycle a bitch is fertile. Don't assume you can determine that by how swollen she is. You can't. I understand you wanting to delay neutering Wellington until he is physically mature. I would make the same decision myself. But if you choose to keep intact dogs and bitches in the same home, you need to educate yourself on what is involved in preventing breeding. Google is your friend. Your vet is your friend. Experienced breeders are your friend. Don't fool around with this unless you want to be posting in about 3 weeks that you are afraid Iola might be pregnant and you don't know what to do.
  5. Hooper2

    Keeping a reactive dog occupied

    In another thread you mentioned that Wellington had suddenly started marking in the house. Did this by any chance coincide with when Iola was in season? Because, if so, normal. As for Wellington's reaction to the GSD snapping and barking, maybe she IS playing. Or, maybe she's not, and he's trying to entice her to play. Either way, normal. When you throw a ball and your other dog gets to it first, he takes it away from her. Normal. She may not like it, and you may have to play fetch with her separately, or put him on a leash while you throw the ball for her, but normal. As he gets older you maybe able to teach him to stay while you toss the ball for her, and then for her to stay while you toss the ball for him. But it will take time to teach that, and you'll start by teaching a good solid stay in lots of other circumstances first. Meanwhile, tossing a ball in the presence of two dogs who like balls, and one of them grabs the ball from the other? NORMAL. Yes. Exactly. Being rowdy is the prime directive in the adolescent dog job manual. Perhaps somewhat more so with males, and perhaps somewhat more so with border collies, but basically you are describing a young dog being a young dog. Most young dogs can learn over time to behave civilly, just as most young humans can. But they have to learn that behavior, and it takes time to download, it doesn't come pre-installed.
  6. Hooper2

    Keeping a reactive dog occupied

    Wait. What?! You consider a (intact?) male dog sniffing a bitch in season to be "crossing a line"? Yeah, no. That's not crossing a line. That's being a dog. I'm shocked if butt sniffing was the most problematic behavior you and your girl had to deal with in that situation. Your puppy used to grab things from your hands, but now that you've put some effort into training he generally takes things nicely? What exactly do you see as a problem here? I'm not sure what you mean by him "thinking it's funny" when other dogs correct him, but if you mean he continues to play, and the other dog tolerates it, then he backed off enough to satisfy the other dog, so, again, what's the problem? As far as the video goes, once again, I see two dogs being dogs. Admittedly, I might change my opinion of what's going on if I saw more than just this short clip, but based on what I did see, your girl wasn't trying to ignore Wellington, she was egging him on. But if you are concerned that the play is getting too rough, separate the two dogs. Put them in separate rooms, or crate one of them. It's not rocket science. Honestly, almost everything you have described about Wellington in this thread, and both videos you've posted just seem like normal rambunctious adolescent dog behavior. Again, I might change my opinion if I saw more of his behavior, but if your idea of being over the line is a dog sniffing a bitch in season, your idea of a tantrum is a dog barking when he sees his owner playing with another dog, and you think your bitch is somehow somehow trying to ignore Wellington while simultaneously "instigating" him, I'm a unconvinced that any of his behavior is all that unusual or extreme.
  7. Hooper2

    Keeping a reactive dog occupied

    Honestly, the video you posted of Wellington's "temper" looks to me like what I would expect most adolescent dogs to do when s/he sees his/her person interacting with another dog in the yard. That's not to say that it's perfect behavior, and I would certainly continue to train the dog to accept me interacting with another dog without barking, but what I saw looked to me like perfectly normal young dog behavior.
  8. Hooper2

    Keeping my busy boy busy!

    I don't THINK I paid less for my own root canal than I did for my dog's root canal, I KNOW I did. By quite a bit. It turned out my dog had a root canal for a broken canine tooth on Monday, and had my own root canal on the following Wednesday. The receptionist at my dentist's office was sort of apologetic when she presented me with the bill for the portion not covered by my insurance. I laughed and told her that I had just paid $700 more for my dog's root canal than the total bill for my root canal. I could hear my dentist muttering "I'm in the wrong business" as he walked by. To be fair to vet dentists, much of the additional cost for a dog's dentistry is because dogs need to be anaesthetized and humans usually don't. Anyhoo, I whole-heartedly agree with the warnings above: no weight bearing bones, no antlers, no nylabones. Which is a great pity, because my dogs loved them.
  9. Hooper2

    Seemingly unhappy 10 week old

    First, regarding her not seeming to enjoy being pet, lots of dogs don't. Many dogs especially dislike being patted or stroked on the head. My bestest dog ever would have joyfully walked through fire for me, but he acted like a total martyr if I insisted on being so mean and embarrassing as to pet him. Try butt scratches, or tummy rubs, or maybe pats on the chest. As for the rest - right now I have a nearly 6 month old pup. Except for the part about being worried about ruining him (I think my pup is awesome! ;-}), your second paragraph describes my pup pretty well. If I need him to, he settles in his crate for longer periods than yours does but 2 hrs was about his limit when he was 10 wks old. At six months he will relax in there for several hours if need be but he's also becoming more reliable outside the crate so don't find myself using the crate as much. But everything else, yes including me having smacked him once when one of those needle sharp baby teeth left a hole in my thumb, describes my pup. You're right, smacking is bad, but puppy causing pain to human is bad too, and sometimes our own startle reflexes aren't under perfect control. Resolve to do better and move on. Your puppy doesn't hate you. She's just being a normal puppy, who at 11 weeks old is roughly comparable to a 2 yr old child. Think of each month in a puppy's life as being comparable to a year in a human's life up till they are about 2 yrs old. When my 2 month or 6 month or 12 month old puppy misbehaves, I think back on what a little jerk I was at 6 yrs or 12 yrs old, and that puts my puppy's behavior in perspective ;-) I like to play scent work games with my puppies - both tracking and searching for hidden treats, but beyond that I'm not much for training tricks. Certainly not a bad thing, just not something I'm into, but others here can recommend some youtube videos on trick training.
  10. Hooper2

    Look Ma, No Crate.

    Well, a lot of them don't manage to eat, drink, sleep and fornicate. Dying of old age is the rare exception among wild animals.
  11. Hooper2

    Potty training vs marking

    I don't want to be overly pushy about the belly band, since I'm basing my suggestion on my vast experience of having used it with exactly one dog who was an exceptionally obnoxious/obsessive marker. Obsessive though he was, that dog most definitely did not like wearing a wet diaper, and pretty quickly curbed himself from marking. For him, marking into a diaper was the opposite of self rewarding. I don't doubt that many, maybe most, dogs would just learn not to mark when they were wearing the band, and would regress without the band. But, for the marking-obsessive young dog I tried it with, the band taught him self control, and once he established the ability to walk with me without hoisting his leg every few steps, that transferred over to a bandless existence. May not work for all dogs, but it's cheap and easy to try, and if nothing else, would allow you (general you) to take your dog places for socialization that you might not otherwise be able to if he's leaving his calling card everywhere. Not a permanent fix, but a tool to help you past a difficult and frustrating point in your dog's maturation.
  12. Hooper2

    Potty training vs marking

    Two words: Belly band More words: They are available from Chewy.com among other places I'm not suggesting this as a permanent solution, but it may help you get past the stage where your little boy his just discovered the novelty of writing his name in the snow, so to speak. This is one behavioral issue that I think is actually helped by neutering if it's not allowed to become a habit in the meantime. I prefer not to neuter dogs until they are around 2, so you want to work on not letting the pattern get ingrained in the meantime if you delay neutering until your dog is fully mature. That means vigilance and training, but belly bands can be a useful stop-gap tool.
  13. Hooper2

    Vestibular disease

    I'm so glad to hear he's feeling better. I bet you're feeling better now too, aren't you? Even when you know that their chance of recovery is excellent, it's pretty hard to feel so helpless to hurry the process along.
  14. Hooper2

    Vestibular disease

    My guess is that the appetite issue has more to do with your dog still feeling dizzy and nauseous from the vestibular disorder than because of the antibiotic, but the antibiotic is a possible culprit. I would ask the vet about whether you need to continue with the antibiotic. I know you are supposed to never quit an antibiotic treatment part way through, and I understand the reason for that. But in this case, it turns out that there isn't an actual bacterial infection anyway, so you shouldn't have to worry about selecting for the resistant survivors by quitting treatment part way through. And while you are asking your vet about the antibiotic, ask about dramamine. No one suggested that when my dog was going through this, but it makes sense that it might help. Hang in there. I know that it's tough to feel so helpless to do anything to help our buddy when they are in such obvious misery. But they do get better, and from what I've read, recurrence is pretty uncommon.
  15. Hooper2

    Vestibular disease

    I had one dog who had a vestibular episode when she was about 11 yr old. She clearly felt pretty awful for about 2 day, but by the end of the week I would say she was about 75 % recovered. She still had a pronounce "list" to one side and was still just a bit wobbly on her feet, but by then she was back to being playful, had her full appetite and was eager to go on walks. She continued to gradually improve over the next couple months, but she always had a very slight head tilt. I don't think most people would have noticed it, but I did, and a rehab vet I took her to for a different issue spotted it immediately. She lived to almost 14 yr old with no recurrence. It's tough for the first few days because there's really nothing you can do but let them rest, and there's no way to explain to them that they'll feel better in a few days. But they do recover pretty well, and I shudder to think how many dogs have been put down because their owners mistakenly thought the dog had a stroke.
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