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Lawgirl

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Everything posted by Lawgirl

  1. I have never come across an indoor trial in Australia yet. Then again, the weather here is a LITTLE more friendly to outdoor trials in winter. Most grounds tend to be public grounds but blessedly quiet, other than the occasional bird and spectator. Our home grounds are next to a BMX track, but we don't usually have competing users. One thing Australia has a lot of is space. I may try and get some photos of the caravan park, and the trial grounds, to show what the trial is like. If you would be interested. The trial actually has an obedience and rally competition as well as agility rings.
  2. I think part of it for Oscar is that for most of our agility trials, we are camping in a tent at a caravan park or camp ground with many other people and dogs around. This starts the day before the trial. Then we have all of the fun of the trial, for two days (or at least a day and a half) before we get to go home. This is not counting the minimum two to five hour drive before we get to the town of the trial. There is so much stimulation for him, and we only go maybe three to five times a year (not including our home trials, where he can come home at the end of the day). We have our first trial of the year this coming weekend, our closest neighbour, only two hours' drive away. We will be staying in a packed caravan park. It is a long weekend, and there is an agility trial, a kid's surf lifesaving competition and, I think, a kids soccer competition on in the same town, and a Folk Music festival at a neighbouring town on the same weekend, with literally thousands of people staying in the camp in caravans, motorhomes, tents, cabins, rooftop tents etc. It is insanely busy.
  3. That is impressive to me! Oscar would not be that calm. Oscar may not be reactive, but he would be far more alert in that situation. He gets so exhausted at a trial because he does not really relax.
  4. I am so happy to hear that the mystery has been solved as to the cause of the problem. Even more importantly, Kenzi is back to being a happy dog again! Yay!
  5. OK, my first agility dog. First photo taken when he was about 7 months old Second photo taken about one year later (with his brother) and on slippery tiles. I really really would not worry about his front paws. Although I totally understand being overprotective; aren't we all?
  6. I know that in America you have ticks that carry Lyme disease, but proving the theory that everything in Australia is trying to kill you, you need to Google paralysis ticks. I may have mentioned them on another thread before. Trust me when I say that you do not want any of them showing up in your country.
  7. Just thought I would update: Nike the snake has made a full recovery and has been released back into the wild! Fortunately for my peace of mind he lives half a continent away from me.
  8. Not sure if there is any NADAC in Brisbane? Tunnellers or the hoops may be better for an older dog than the jumps. Otherwise nosework, or even something like Rally can be good for an older dog. Rally can have one or two jumps in higher grades, but with straight approaches and not at high speed. I call it an obedience obstacle course. Or you can look into track and search or lure coursing. I just checked Dogs Queensland's website, and there are trials in both disciplines, so there must be clubs that teach it. These might work for an older dog that is still active.
  9. Has he got the ACD stink eye down yet? That look that lets you know he is infinitely unimpressed?
  10. He is gorgeous! Love the last one. Have his ears settled on being one up one down, or is that just that photo?
  11. Oh, I recall seeing that face a time or two
  12. I agree with everything that is said above as, especially about the suggestion that 20 puppies is probably way too much stimulation for your puppy, and an abnormally large puppy group. Border Collies are bred to be sensitive to the minutest movement of sheep. For a little puppy, that much movement must be overwhelming and frightening. Be his protector; keep things at a distance, let him observe from where he feels safe and allow him to set the pace of his interactions. I have also found that my BCs are somewhat 'breedist', in that they get on best with other herding/working type dogs who have the same body language and play styles. This is not the case with every BC, obviously. But if there are some puppies that are very boisterous and 'in your face' in the group, or some of the brachycephalic breeds, like pugs, frenchies and boxers, BCs can have difficulty reading their play. If there are some other BCs, Aussies etc in the group, can you maybe arrange a small play meet with one or two other puppies away from the big group? And your puppy is gorgeous
  13. She looks more like a Jackie or a Shawnee to me. Thank you very much, you have paid the puppy tax - for now! She is a real cutie pie! I look forward to seeing her grow. I am afraid I do not have a lot of advice for toilet training in winter with snow. Not something I see a lot of in Australia. I suspect letting her out of the crate as soon as she goes in is a bad precedent to be setting though.
  14. I think you will find many people on this forum join in your view of the rare need to wash their BCs. I have four BCs, two aged six and a half years, one aged five years, and one about to turn two. George (6 and a half) has been groomed, I think, three times, and bathed about six times. Oscar, also 6 and a half, has been groomed about five times and gets bathed about every four to six months. Bailey, aged five years, has been washed maybe five times. Shadow, who came to us at 11 months, has been washed twice.
  15. Best of luck with the surgery and to you and Kenzi!
  16. Welcome to the BC Boards MVZ! I hope you will feel free to ask questions and share your fun experiences with us. We will do our best to help. Also, we are always happy to see photos of puppies (hint, hint!).
  17. I am glad it seems to be working! I must admit I am not talking from personal experience, but from group experience from others on this forum dealing with things like dogs afraid of a car etc. If things take a backwards step, you just need to go back to where she is comfortable again and go more slowly, breaking things down into slower steps, but hopefully that doesn't happen.
  18. Also, after my long read above, I wanted to say that I love the look of your dog, and she reminds my of my boy Oscar. I love a whiteface BC in Agility. Makes them much easier to pick out in the photos of an event.
  19. I think with all dog sports, it is easy to get very caught up in them. I can only speak about agility, which is what I do, and I am in Australia, which means I will have a different perspective. But I will give my perspective. Agility has many different handling systems, theories on how to approach it etc as you can shake a stick at. My advice is to relax, work on building a good relationship with your dog, make everything as fun as you can and enjoy the ride. Your first dog will always be special, but will always be the one where you learn the most, and probably make the most mistakes. If you are a super competitive personality, you will want to go to a top trainer, practice regularly, make or buy your own equipment, immerse yourself in the culture and theory, compete as soon as you are ready, and then enter everything you can, travelling to every competition you can and advance through the levels to elite competition. Or my preference, especially as a first timer, is to take your time, maybe help out at some agility (or other dog sport) trials first to get a feel for what they are about, how they run, what is involved, how different people work. Talk to people you like watching work their dogs about where they train, or what system they use etc. Do some basic foundation work (lots of videos online) to build up core strength, build a connection, etc. Decide which system you like and either go to a local trainer or do courses online. Stay positive and make things fun for your dog. Have a go, laugh at your mistakes and keep trying. In Australia, we have a saying "I'm not playing for sheep stations here". The meaning being that I am not competing for some incredibly valuable trophy or prize, I am doing this for fun (or exercise, or friendship etc). That is my attitude with agility. My boy loves, and I mean LOVES, going over jumps. He is never happier. It is not my idea of a good time to run like a mad thing around a field for 30 seconds. I do it because he loves it. When it stops being fun for him, it stops being fun for me. There is nothing wrong with wanting to be an elite level competitor in agility or any other dog sport. If that is what you want to be, go for it, I will be cheering and admiring from the sidelines. But it is perfectly acceptable to just want to have fun, to keep trying and learning and improving. Not everyone has the time, money and dedication (or aptitude) to be an elite level athlete in dog sports. We can all have fun and try to do our best.
  20. If I ever come to the USA (not likely in my current circumstances short of a sudden windfall) I will be knocking on your door to meet Kiran ( and you too, of course Cpt. Jack, but, well, priorities!). He is an absolute delight and I love every photo and video.
  21. I guess the question for me is whether removing the implant is going to relieve the immediate pain only to cause other pain. I am sure the original surgery was a well considered choice because the alternative was a negative outcome. Does removing the implant mean Kenzi goes back to the negative outcome? Does the removal also mean ongoing pain or loss of function? Would that be worse or better than the current situation? Are you balancing function versus pain? I don't know enough about your situation to know what the answer is, and it is a horrible dilemma to be in. I am not generally in favour of long term pain relief, partly because of side effects and toxicity, but also because, at least in humans, it can actually make pain worse over time. I have no idea if it is the same in dogs. Sorry I can't be more help. I have no answers; I have never been in your position and I suspect it comes down to a very personal decision in your particular circumstances with no absolute right or wrong answer, only what is right for you and Kenzi.
  22. I have a dog who is not a fan of being brushed, mainly because he has quite wiry fur on his hindquarters and bloomers. I tried one of those mitts and had no real success; he didn't hate it, but it did bupkiss when it came to getting undercoat out. It might be a good massage? I have found that I have to get him really relaxed with a good scratching and petting, then sneak out an undercoat rake which I had hidden away, and brush him quite gently, interspersed with pats and constant reassurance. Even then I can really only do a section at a time. The best I have found is a narrow but long toothed, double row undercoat rake designed for long coat and wiry coated breeds. He seems to tolerate that brush the best out of all I have found so far. I guess it pulls his fur the least. But that is more due to his coat type than a blanket fear of being brushed like your dog. I do like the look of the brush you have bought. If I was going to go for a brush for a dog that was afraid of them, that looks like a good one.
  23. Lots of games you can play with puppies. Trick training is perfect. Aside from the basic sit, down, shake, you can start doing things like bow (by capturing when she does the move naturally while stretching), touch with nose, touch with paw, roll over, turn around and the ever cute gimme a kiss... I think there is something like "100 things to do with a box" which is full of ideas, or look at trick training videos.
  24. So what you need to do is desensitisation. Depending on how bad she is, you start by putting the brush down somewhere and rewarding her for looking at it. Then, when she is comfortable looking at it, you no longer reward for looking at it, but you reward her for moving towards it. Then you reward her for getting closer. Then for touching it. Then you start over with you holding it still. Then with you touching her with it. Then, finally, you can think about starting to brush, very gently. This is going to take time and lots of treats. There was a video on a sudden fear of a kitchen thread recently which shows the sort of process you go through to over come fear in a dog. Same theory, different fear. Small steps, lots of positive reinforcement.
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