Jump to content
BC Boards

CptJack

Registered Users
  • Content Count

    2,178
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CptJack

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    NRV, Virginia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I do want to say that, in my experience, while BC should be able to do more than is mentioned here.... They're not, in my experience, dogs who have a ton of endurance unless specifically conditioned for it. Go hard, go fast, short burst stuff, yes, but most I know, unless used regularly for work and built up to longer times have more 'go fast!' for like 5-10 minutes and then take a break and recover. They also, universally, tend to take 'there is nothing being asked of me so I'm going to sleep' as an approach on life. Again, absolutely this sounds extreme. But 'go go go' and physical stamina to match is not the default setting on most/many.
  2. And, yes, neutering can cause an energy level decline. If you think about it, you're basically removing a chemical from their body that athletes use to enhance performance (testosterone).
  3. Is it possible that he has some form of Border Collie Collapse and is self-regulating to avoid that collapse? This is, unfortunately, a DX of exclusion and usually comes with gait changes, but they can be subtle and some dogs (Molly included) learn to self-regulate by putting themselves down to rest/stopping before things get bad. Mental alteration is almost always part of that, though (seeming 'out of it' a little, less responsive, etc).
  4. Oh, we have the same stuff - the puppies aren't experienced - we just get a little more confident that it will pass. My youngest as a puppy was a hellion. No off switch and thanks to ACD in the mix bit like a rabid shark.
  5. She definitely doesn't have any trouble with her jump height, or in clearing it without OVER clearing it. She's a very, very efficient jumper and it's very cool - to me, anyway, after seeing so many pictures of dogs jumping WAY above the bar and sometimes even nearly clearing the jump standards and thinking that was desirable.
  6. My BC (or mostly BC, who knows) is now just about to turn 5. Her routine goes something like this: Wakes up about 6:30 when spouse gets up, goes outside and pees, comes back and comes back to bed with me. 8:00, I get up and feed the dogs, so she gets breakfast. She follows me downstairs and goes up on the love seat and goes back to sleep while I settle in to work. Noon, once I get up and start moving around she and the other BC mix (who is just 2) go outside with me where we do a bit of training with the ball as a reward for about half an hour. 12:30 - back inside, she goes back onto the loveseat or dog bed and goes back to sleep. 5:00 I wrap up work, they get fed dinner and I start cooking dinner. After dinner (6?) they either go for an off leash run through the woods or swimming. 7 or so I start pulling dogs out for individual training. obedience, agility, stupid tricks, disc, whatever we're working on, and each one gets a solid 30-45 minutes working on their stuff. Then they're back to lazing around until bed at about 10. Now, sometimes there's a class, seminar, trial, or competition going on that involves a lot of waiting and a little running, but mostly that's our daily routine. One stint of hard off leash exercise in the day, a couple of points of training new stuff. What there definitely is not is a lot of frantic activity, all the time. And I do realize my girl is now middle aged, but this has been the routine - really! - since she was abo ut 6 months old for her. the ACD X BC took longer to chill out and stop yelling about his desire ot do things all the time, but he still got there. Crazy amounts of activity is not the magic bullet. Working their brains IS.
  7. Yep. Molly can play run for a really, really long time if temperature's aren't broiling. She's good for about half an hour of agility training at a time. It's way more exhausting for her. Think of it like this: Is walking for an hour or taking an algebra test for an hour more likely to leave you in need of a nap? For most people, barring being WAY out of shape? It's the math test.
  8. She was a little intense that first jump.
  9. There is no way I am going to acknowledge 'My dog runs up to your dog and is friendly and that means that kicking at it is wrong and bad and you are threatening my dog'. If their dog is on a line and not allowed to approach, there's no risk of it getting hurt. If it isn't, IT DOES NOT MATTER IF IT IS FRIENDLY, I AM GOING TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT. There was nothing to get defensive ABOUT if their dog was staying on a line and I acknowledged as much, but "BUT FRIENDLY!" does not change a damned thing. And does not make acting like I'm going to go over to where their dog is and kick the crap out of it for fun and games any more reasonable as a response.
  10. ...If my dog is with me, on a 4 foot leash, and standing beside me then. The dog coming up to me is, in fact, likely getting into my dogs face. My dog who can retreat no further than 4-6 feet and knows it and is therefore more restricted by it. That's a problem. Presumably yelling/screaming/flailing at the dog would work, but I'm not going to wait UNTIL there is a fight to prevent there being one! And, yes, I am resenting acting like I'm going to go out and attack a dog for existing. No. I'm going to do what it takes to keep a dog from getting close enough to my dog to have an issue. Maybe she'd be fine, I don' tknow, but I do know I'm not risking it and don't want to be approached at ALL by someone's OUT OF CONTROL DOG. The nice, sweet, young dog doesn't deserve it. You are right though in that OP already said they'd be using a long line. Their 'my dog's perfectly friendly tho!' defense just doesn't hold water with me. Perfectly friendly doesn't remove 'out of control' if they're allowed to approach.
  11. And let me go ahead and point out that my dog regularly competes in dog sports/activities in the presence of other dogs and has dog friends she's perfectly happy to interact with (or ignore). She isn't a loose canon. She is a dog who doesn't want another dog charging up to her - particularly with a toy and when she cannot retreat - an d getting in her face and will behave accordingly. Well behaved and under control dogs? Not an issue.
  12. Um, yeah. I have no desire to hurt anyone's dog or see anyone's dog hurt, but the reality is MY dog, who is under control, on a leash, and unable to retreat, will behave in a defensive manner if approached by an off leash dog. It does not matter how friendly that dog is. My dog is unable to flee (fight or flight), which leaves fight. Which means that me kicking out at - or even kicking! - your dog is protecting your dog from my dog. My dog that is on a leash. Under control. That your dog should not damn well approach. If I see your dog coming, I'm going to ask you to recall your dog. My dog will stand there while this is going on, possibly putting herself behind me or between my legs. If you either do not or cannot recall your dog and your dog continues to approach you have shown me that your dog is now out of your control and the ONLY MEANS I HAVE to prevent your dog from being bitten by my perfectly under control dog, who is on a leash and was minding her own business when approached, is yelling, screaming, throwing something, and finally kicking. And if I don't do those things? My dog WILL handle it and she will handle it by putting holes in your dog and I will be -legally as well as ethically, completely without liability. This is not even unusual dog behavior. Lots of very friendly dogs HATE being approached in that manner and will behave defensively and who can blame them!?!. Doesn't matter if your dog is friendly. My dog does not want your dog in her face/space and my dog, due to being leashed, cannot retreat. That means growling, snapping, and ultimately biting or potential for bite The solution to avoiding ALL of these is very easy and they are ALL , legally and ethically, on you: Keep your dog within your control. If your dog will not recall, use a leash. PLEASE. I *don't* want to see your dog hurt, that's the whole point!
  13. ^This. You HAVE to realize that not everyone can read dogs, likes dogs, or feels safe around dogs. Even with that aside, PEOPLE WHO DO NOT KNOW YOUR DOG do not know how aggressive he may or may not be, or under what circumstances. Does he resource guard his ball? T hey don't know! There are dogs who will drop a ball and then snap whwen you go to take it because they're conflicted. Will he jump up on them? They don't know! What if it's a small child, a frail elderly person, or someone with an immune condition or undergoing chemo or otherwise made more fragile than you can immediately tell! Is he dog aggressive after an initial greeting (or to other males, neutered males, intact males, puppies)? Is he fully vaccinated? They *don''t know* and they don't want to interact with your dog. If you cannot keep your dog to yourself they are WELL Within their rights to, when the dog blows a recall to protect themselves, their children and their dogs and since they do not know your dog, he IS a potential threat who has the capacity to do harm. And on one very specific scenario? If your dog approached me when I was out with Molly and would not recall AND brought a toy into the mix? I 'd stomp toward him, yell and if he continued to approach probably kick him. Because if he doesn't leave? Molly's going to make him go - with teeth. And given that she would be on leash and minding her business until your dog charged in, your dog would be the one in trouble legally (as well as because he'd have holes in his body from my dog - or bruises because I kicked the crap out of him to save him from puncture wounds).
×
×
  • Create New...