MaggieDog

I've changed dogs names even after they've been used to me calling them by another for months (fosters turned adopted dogs lol). I generally just go cold turkey with the new name and reward any attention they give me after I say their name. Usually they start to respond to the new name very quickly. IMO it's always a good idea to change a dog's name when it's a name associated with less than stellar environments, so I'd def change names on shelter or stray pups but would consider keeping a name given by a foster parent if I liked it.

You might want to contact the Animal Behavior Clinic at Purdue University - I believe one of the main vets at the clinic specializes in compulsive disorders so they might have more resources.

I think I paid $38 or $40 for the big bag last time I bought it - I think it may become my base food on the dogs' rotational diet.

Aussie - If I were you I'd also be looking into a good insulated doghouse for Bonnie - a good dog house will retain heat and make her own body mechanisms for keeping her warm more efficient. There are also special plastic disks that can be heated in the microwave (heat lasts up to 8 hours) you might want to look into for those very cold nights.

Yea it's not really cold to me either (grew up in Indiana winters), but she *is* shivering due to cold - it looks VERY different than her excitement shivers. Cold shivers are all over, excitement shivers are often restricted to ears and legs for her lol. And of course sitting stationary is very different than moving - 40 is not shivering weather when she's working, but before and after our turns she's completely stationary in the car and that's when you'll see the issue. (I figured no one was making fun, but I didn't want people to dismiss the OP's question either.)

Ouchies! I wonder if fining a place for him to swim might also be helpful. That plus physical therapy, and supplements would certainly be a complete treatment plan! Have you tried DGP or any of the other stuff WDJ has discussed?

Coats can be very helpful in certain circumstances and I think we owe the OP the benefit of the doubt. I use a coat on my SAR dog in training when she has to sit in her crate for hours during practice in temps below about 40 degrees, otherwise she'll shiver. Ziva's measurement is about 40cm to her tail base, but I generally prefer coats a bit shorter than that, so her ideal would be around 30-35cm. Z is 15.75" at the shoulder and 24.4lbs. Maggie's full measurement is 57cm to tail base and I'd prefer a coat about 50cm long. She is 18.75" at the shoulder and 32lbs.

I'd recommend a martingale collar for walks in addition to an ID collar as properly adjusted they are virtually escape-proof and it's nice to have that added security with a new dog. DAP is a good idea. Do you have any cats? If so a similar product is available to help them with the stress of the new addition as well. Towels and shampoo are good to have on hand just in case. Do you have a vet lined up? If not, now would be the time to be interviewing them and any other animal related service providers you'll be using (daycare, dog walker, kennel, groomer, trainers, etc.). Same with info on local E-clinics.

Hey you can always drive up to Spartanburg, SC - we're having a heartworm clinic on the 28th and it's $10 per dog and includes a brief physical. I know around here it's state law that dogs must have an annual heartworm test before prescribing prevention even if they've been on it continuously.

Our humane society will s/n any animal over 2lbs and 8 weeks. Wee do thousands of adoptions every year and many are of pups and kittens. Our vet does a great job and we've not heard of any problems from adopters. For dogs going to high performance homes I might be a little more cautious, but for pets the benefits outweigh the potential risks, especially when you consider that compliance w/ s/n contracts, even those including a deposit toward surgery, is around **30%**.

At least at the shelter we consider half grown in canines to be a dog between 5 and 6 months, never 7 months.

Yea gag me with a spoon. Separate classes that may or may not be offered at events?! Only offered at shows not in association with conformation? Did I read that right? Mixes still can't compete in tracking, lure coursing, etc., just agility, rally, and obedience. If anything they've just made me even MORE anti-AKC...

I greatly prefer front lead harnesses for big pullers as there's very little adjustment time and they're pretty easy to fit in comparison. My two top brands are BeBop USA and the EasyWalk by Premier. As far as the aggression issue, I'd be looking to minimize her opportunities to sit at your feet and guard instead of setting her up to fail and be corrected.

It's one of my least favorite tools, but it can be useful in some situations. What are you thinking about using it for and what have you tried so far?

I LOVE LOVE LOVE my Granite Gear pack for Maggie. It's just the right size, doesn't flop about, looks great, and distributes weight properly over her shoulders and not her back. It's one of the few I had her try out that she doesn't seem to really notice, even with a fair amount of stuff in it; the adjustment period was a breeze. We don't do much longterm hiking or much in really rough terrain, but it's held up great on all our treks (up to about 3.5mi) thus far. Keep in mind that the Ruffwear packs are great but do *not* come in sizes for smaller dogs. A dog like my Maggie (32lbs, 18.5" at the shoulder) would be at the far end of the size range for their packs from what I understand. My 23lb, 15.75" Ziva can't wear any of their packs, but I have a Webmaster Harness for her for SAR work since it's a 5 point harness and in red is great for visibility, all without being restrictive.

What about trying the skunk odor remover stuff? Though you might want to double check with the vet that you *can* wash him to get the odor out - perhaps the odor just is a sign that the meds are still there and thus you wouldn't want to wash it off.

The crate is not punishment - it's a way to keep the puppy from pottying (errorless housetraining) and restrict any environmental or self rewarding. The pup should be placed in the crate calmly, with no emotion.

I would be surprised if the pups learned down exclusively through imitation as I've never seen pups like that. Pretty neat results, but I too found the running towards the road scary and wondered why she let some of the pups get away with crouching or standing vs. lying down.

Have you cleaned the rug well with an *ezymatic* cleanser? If you haven't, do so as it's likely she's returning to that spot because it "smells right". If you can, the next time she potties inside take the soiled paper towels outside to where you want to have her go and see if that triggers her interest. There are also "scent stakes" you can buy that may do the same thing. With the above in place, I would tend to be a bit hardcore about pottying outside: When it is likely she needs to go, she goes out with you on leash and has 5 minutes to eliminate; if no result, carry her inside (so she can't have an accident) and put her in her crate for 10-15 minutes. Take her out again for 5 minutes, rinse and repeat. When she does potty, make a huge deal out of it, go on a walk, play a game, and/or take her inside for some free time in the house. The idea is that not eliminating = boring crate time and having to hold it (no relief), pottying outside = PARTY!!!, relief, and time out of the crate. Generally the 5 minute rule training takes about a day or two to really start the puppy on the right track, but it *works* and in the long run, the time investment is WEEEELLLL worth it.

I prefer their Holistic line and really wish I could get it here. It's a good food for a reasonable price.

Not much different from a big dog ime, though I have the following tips that might be helpful: - if you are using food rewards, consider using a long handled spoon to deliver them so the owner is not constantly bending over nor does the dog learn to jump up for treats if the owner doesn't deliver them low enough. - any physical corrections will need to be incredibly light given how easily the necks and bodies of small dogs can be injured. - small dogs are at higher risk of collapsing tracheas, so consider suggesting that the owner use a harness or head halter vs. collar for leash walks - ime small dogs have more trouble learning the down cue, so creative solutions may be necessary.

My work schedule varies, but it's the same pattern just different hours. - Up at between 7:30 and 8:30am, dogs all out to potty as soon as I'm dressed. - Dog breakfast after pottying, so about 30 mins after I'm up. I eat at my computer after they've been fed. - If I don't have to go in to work until later (11am) then it's generally some play and just hanging out in the house until about 30 mins before I have to be at work, otherwise they don't get the free time before the pup goes out to potty and everyone is sent to their respective rooms with treat dispensing toys (kong ball for the pup, Kibble Nibble for Z, Waggle for Maggie). - home for lunch between noon and 3 depending on how late I'm working. Dogs go out to potty when I get home, then hang out while I eat my lunch. I'm usually home for about 30 minutes. - home for the evening between 6:30pm and 9:30pm depending on schedule. Dogs are let out by DH around 5:30pm, but if they haven't been out by the time I get home I let them out then. Dinner is generally about 30-60mins after I get home. - Hang out time, play time with each other, and the occasional training session with me fill the time after I get home until final potty break before bed between 11pm and midnight. Z goes to SAR practice every Monday and agility practice every Thursday morning for the most part. The pup is starting a puppy agility class on Thursday mornings this coming week as well. Maggie gets walks with DH about once or twice a week when I'm out working the others. Weekends are a very similar schedule of feedings and time out to potty, but much more time with me during the periods between.

Often it's a sign that the dog is conflicted about what to do, or over excited. I'd suggest limiting the type of petting that starts the behavior and when she does it, immediately walk out of the room and ignore her for 30 seconds.

bc4ever - the BB trainers I've run into were very "into" the whole alpha dog thing, thought choke chains worked for every dog, and in general just came off as rather abrasive and full of themselves. Certainly a very "one size fits all" training approach. it sounds like you found someone very different and I'll certainly keep that in mind when it comes to BB in general.

We have some really crappy BB trainers around here - I generally recommend that you stay away from them for that (as well as the fact that I really don't like the majority of their methods) reason. YMMV and I'm glad to hear that some people have had success with them.