MaggieDog

I like the rubber chuckit balls - very durable, don't get all gross, and because there isn't any fur, there isn't any silica. They also have a new one that whistles that I'm thinking about getting at some point.

We got a West Paw Bumi in a gift exchange this year and so far it is amusing Kes greatly *and* withstanding rigorous play quite nicely. I may have to buy a Huck or Hurley in the future.

We have one of the ultra balls from a past swap - I lurves it's durability (and the fact it doesn't hold dirt and drool) but Kes doesn't seem to think it as suitable for nomming as balls he can destroy unfortunately!

We'll hold off on the Helle roller for now, I suppose - I don't need to spend $$ on something that could very well die a horrible death. The purple dumbbell is likely a Busy Buddy Waggle (or if it makes noise, the Chuckle) - we have two and we love them, Maggie especially as it's one of the food dispensing toys that still takes her more than 10-15 minutes to empty. Target has the line of toys in green, and Academy Sports has them in orange. I forgot to mention one of Kes' favs - the Teaser ball - similar to the ball in a holee roller ball except the outside "frame" is solid plastic. Of course he likes to kill shake the thing so it's only allowed to be played with away from the flat screen TV or anything else breakable lol.

Perhaps the Holee Roller idea will help save the lives of many innocent tennis balls - Kes likes to kill them and is down to about 2 minutes per ball!

Durable toys that my pups like: Nylabones/Galileo bones All of the Busy Buddy line of toys, but especially the Bristle Bone and Squirrel Dude Orbee toys from Planet Dog, except those that have raised continents Jolly Ball Canine Genius Mike and Leo Kongs of all sorts - mine have black and red ones, but I also like the blue ones for durability, just haven't needed to replace any of ours Kong Bone Treatstik Toys we like but that do have limited lifespans: Tuffies stuffed toys (only one that holds up to Kes at all, but even it is showing wear quickly) Air Dog tennis ball toys Air Kong toys Kong Wubba Rope bones Orbee balls with continents (Kes pulls the continents off lol) Edible Chews: Wholesome Hide rawhide retriever rolls Ray tails Merrick Tendon Chews Zukes Z-Ridge bones Toys I've heard good things about but haven't bought myself: Goghnuts Tricky Treat Ball

The line for me is the individual (or rescue group's) ability to not just address physical needs, but also mental needs of the animals in their care. Obviously it's a hoarding situation when animals are living in filth, but I also think you are on the mild end of hoarding if the animals are crated for 23 hours a day, you can't spend time with them individually, and you aren't providing a place for them to express natural behaviors. If all you animals have major behavior issues that aren't actively in the process of resolution or they all need meds for behavior issues, then there's something wrong as well. I tend to be pretty skeptical of most "no-kill" places because of my concerns about the animals' mental needs - sure the physical may be just fine, but is it humane to ignore the fact that there is a mental aspect to animals that needs to be taken into consideration, too?

Twice, but not really on a set schedule so sometimes it's just once if I get up late.

Well crap. I'm so sorry it's not the news you were hoping for - Duncan sure can be thankful for his amazing family this holiday season. ((hugs))

Good luck! And safe driving!

I actually made Z a homemade "bite not collar" out of dishtowels and a wide collar when she got staples recently - worked like a charm without the hassle or stress of a cone. For her spay we used a long tanktop tied over her back for the first two days.

Honestly I think I just never went over to the dogs waiting to switch unless they were quiet. Plus when I say short sessions, we're talking about 2-3 minutes so they don't have a lot of time to wait. If I'm actively training all 3, then each dog is trained for a few minutes about 3 or 4 times. Often I also do work with them on walks, as a group, and when I take one to work with me.

Mine realize that there's no point in complaining while someone else is working or they won't get to work. Generally I keep their sessions short and multiple vs. one long one per dog and that helps. The dogs not working are babygated or crated in my home office while the working dog gets time with me and the clicker in the living room. Additionally I find it incredibly helpful to enroll dogs in separate training classes to ensure they get quality training time with me on a weekly basis. Kes currently is enrolled in a Puppy Agility class and a Levels-style basic obedience class. Z is enrolled in Excellent Agility right before Kes' Puppy Agility class. Maggie isn't in classes but I am working on setting up a regular therapy visit at a local special education class for her.

Thanks for the tip on Nicole - I'll pm her later this evening.

Ah forgot to mention - this is for someone I ran into on another board who I offered to help since she thought AKC was the only option. She's in Vermont; the dog in question is a 7mo ACD.

LOL yea I luuuurve my boy. And yes, he's taught me a lot about the proper installation of an off switch (it's almost fully installed now!), the joys of stuffed kongs, and the awesomeness of mental work when it comes to tiring puppies out. He's the only dog I have that will play with an empty kong - he just enjoys play! It's so cool! Heck he's making me reconsider SAR already

I've always wanted an intense dog that was "hard" and fearless; well I got him: Kes came back from 4 hours of daycare today with one skinned pad and 3 well worn pads. The boy doesn't know when to stop! Of course he's not phased at all - he's meandering around my home office trying to get into trouble...Off to look up the numerous posts on the topic!

How would one go about finding a trainer who can teach someone about cattle work instead of sheep? This would be for someone looking to turn a dog into a helpful dog around a large beef operation.

Hey it sounds like that did go better than expected in that they didn't fight - the correction from Quinn sounds quite effective and appropriate from your description!

Just a clarification - I use prong collars on about 3% of the dogs that enter my training classes. My first choice is a front lead harness, then a head halter, and then the prong and only if the dog is not overly sensitive to correction or at all fearful or aggressive/reactive. Unfortunately it sounds like your vet has ruled out the first two, so my opinion is the prong is the lesser of two evils given those restrictions - not ideal, but better than no exercise or re-injury. Do try the plastic version or using the rubber prong covers since your boy can be sensitive. And make sure you get a good one - the ends of the prongs should be smoothly rounded, not flat cut. A BC does not need a heavy weight prong, the one I use for most dogs is a prong with links about 1" in length.

If I was going with a correction collar I'd go with a prong waaaaaaaaaaay before a choke. I really prefer the even distribution of pressure, the ease of fading, and the self correcting nature of a prong, plus there has been at least one study that indicates that chokes cause permanent damage to the structures of the neck, whereas prongs do not. Do be cautious of the side effects of punishment, but for a sound dog a prong used appropriately should not cause issues. My biggest concern is associating corrections with the same situation (greeting animals or people) over and over = defensiveness around them - it happened to my Maggie so it is possible, but she wasn't as sound mentally as she needed to be to do well on a prong imo.

What about parallel walking? That's what always helped Maggie adjust to fosters. It would avoid the initial stiffness and get them back into a group mindset by doing something together.

He's a beautiful guy and sounds well loved; he certainly looks like a number of BCs I know of - I think it's diet time!

I had a pitty mix client who would do this when she was getting overaroused. It was a very reliable signal to tone things down or end the session or you'd get pinched for your troubles.

I don't find the comprehensive plans helpful, mainly due to cost and hassle related to having to file for every little thing lol. I do however have a plan for both Z and Kes that covers accidents/injury/illness up to $8000/yr. Z's policy is $120/yr and Kes' is $135 (Kes is a bigger dog, hence more $$). Each dog has a $250 deductible and the plan pays 90% after that is reach (70% for specialists). I've heard bad things about banfield (crappy vets, poor service, overcharging) and VPI (old references for payout limits on procedures, no coverage for congenital stuff). My plans are through PetPlan and include congenital conditions and do not consider newly developed conditions pre-existing after the first year like many plans. As long as you keep the premium current they will still cover expenses in the following years assuming the pet was diagnosed while under coverage.