MaggieDog

I agree with the "use what works for you and your dog" rule. Z's weaves are rockin and we used 2x2 and channels, with guides for weaning her to the full set. Tonight at class she rocked the poles w/o guides: fast, smooth (and accurate once she realized she had to slow down for the entrance ), even with me working from the other side of them! 2x2s got her entrances accurate, channels got her fast, and guides reminded her not to pop out - they all work in concert!

Just an FYI, driving 60 miles is *nothing* when it comes to distance to get to trials. For me, the closest USDAA trial is 55 miles away and I was thrilled it was that near. Honestly, I'd reconsider your distance requirements unless you are in an area with other venues much closer. Here in SC, 50-60 miles one way is close, so my radius for trials is going to be about 200 miles one way.

I've always liked the Wellness and Eagle Pack Holistic formulas and they both have a fish variety. Maggie's allergic to chicken, so it cuts down on our choices greatly. I'm currently feeding Wellness Lamb and the next go round will prob be ProPlan Selects Salmon or Prairie Beef.

Yup our shelter feeds Pedigree almost exclusively - scary stuff.

I now leave both girls loose in the house when I'm at work the majority of the time, but every once in a while I'll crate Z for half the day to keep her skills up and give Maggie a break from the pest. Ziva didn't get house privileges until about 14 months, though she slept loose starting 5 months after adoption (10 mo). When crated she had/has a large crate (2 sizes larger than needed), a cushy bed, lots of chewies, and at least one treat dispensing toy. My schedule is a bit skewed but DH works a normal 8 to 5, so the girls are only left alone between 10:45am-noon, 1pm-3pm, and then 4pm-5:30pm if we both come home for lunch. The longest we generally will leave the girls loose together is 6.5 hours (11am to 5:30pm); if we'll be gone longer, Z is crated to keep her out of trouble (her bladder isn't as strong as Maggie's), but that happens very rarely. Before I lived with DH, I came home for lunch and crated Z for half the day to give Maggie her space.

Rockin' Freddie - guess I was guesstimating ages correctly at last in his case. Glad he's going strong - I know how hard those certification exams can be (been reading up now that Z's in training lol).

I would guess the number of deaths shortly there after was due more to the fact that they sent the top dogs who had the most training. Since most SAR dogs don't start as a certified dog until at least 2yo ime, this would mean those dogs would've likely been around 4 or 5 yo and that's middle age for most large breeds. With heavy work and training, they generally work until 8-10ish give or take. Those alive now would be pretty old dogs (i.e. 9yo minimum, many between 12 and 13yo or so).

Could also be flea bite dermatitis - I've seen a number of dogs come into the shelter with sparse hair on their hindquarters that regrows as soon as the fleas are gone. I'd also wonder about some other disorder given her swayback, big bellied appearance. A ten year old should not look that "old" unless they've been uncared for for a while or there's something going on under the surface. If it were me, I'd ask the rescue to have their vet run a full blood panel and thyroid series to see where she stands in general.

Aggression like you describe in a 5mo pup is something for a veterinary behaviorist, not people on an internet board. Please find a veterinary behaviorist (not just a vet or trainer) and seek their help with this issue ASAP!

USDAA requires registration with their org, but allows all dogs regardless of lineage. I compete with my two mixes in USDAA. ASCA has agility, though I think competitions can be hard to find in some areas.

USDAA is all over the midwest for agility. APDT does rally, dunno how popular they are in your area. For obedience and agility there's the UKC. Lots out there is you start looking for alternatives. I compete in USDAA agility and find it more challenging than AKC in many ways.

Oh gag - they jump into the "retail sector" immediately, and yet the mere thought of registering mixes for performance purposes isn't even discussed (hopefully altered mixes of course). Heaven forbid we deign to admit mixes into the premier registry...Yet another HUGE reason to avoid them at all costs.

I believe my mom said she paid $3.50 or $4 for her regular 50lb bales of grass hay for her horses. She's in South Central Indiana.

I use fish oil capsules from the human supplement aisle - Whole Foods brand or NOW brand. Seems to be working well thus far.

Any way you could get to an orthopedic specialist? Sounds like you need an experienced professional's insight.

Just saw this - you've got our strongest "mojo" headed your way from SC. (((hugs)))

Do NOT NOT NOT sedate an animal that will be flying - sedation can cause respiratory suppression from what I understand and this can be deadly. Most airlines will refuse to transport a sedated pet due to the risks. I heartily second the recommendation to get her acclimated to the crate ASAP - I have seen the damage a frantic pet can do to both the crate and themselves if not properly acclimated. This is a process that is not to be rushed so the sooner you can start working with her, the better. You can find good info on crate training by searching this board. Find out the airlines' rules, the departure country's rules, the layover countries' rules, and your arrival country's rules for animal transport by plane to avoid any nasty surprises. you will at minimum need health records of some type (generally an official form) from a vet within a set amount of time prior to departure (10 days here in the US I believe). Additional info: US based, but good to read nonetheless - APHIS Pet Travel info Thread from another board with lots of links - Flying with your dog

Welcome to adolescence. Pups can seem to revert during this time in their lives and the best remedy I've found includes enforcing the rules and a good dose of patience.

Wonderful vid - passing it along to some of my friends.

Honestly I would not consider a 5 yo dog with fears of balls and timidity issues a SD candidate. Are you sure you aren't letting your desire to help people blind you to the needs of this dog?

Congrats - it certainly is an awesome feeling isn't it! Keep up the good work Odin.

I know you said she doesn't like veggies, but I've found green peas and canned pumpkin motivating for many non-veggie dogs. I also like making "trail mix" from assorted kibbles, cheerios, and a few high value jerky or meat based treats (if you use hot dogs or cheese, you'll need to refrigerate the mix). The cereal and kibble absorb the odor of the high value treats so they become higher value themselves, but aren't as high in calories.

It sounds very anxiety based, so I'd start looking into addressing the underlying anxiety before the specific behaviors. Things to try include: - maintaining a regular schedule when in a new location - instituting a work to earn/Nothing in Life is Free program at all times (search for NILIF or NILF on the board) - using Rescue Remedy (flower essences) and/or DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) when you go to new places - doing some remedial socialization work in a variety of locations to help him adjust to traveling and what's expected of him (these can be short trips like going to a new park, walking around the shops in the city square, etc.) - perhaps try an Anxiety Wrap As for his behavior at the dog park, I'd probably start stepping in and redirecting him if possible before he starts the mounting and institute time outs when he does mount another dog.

Honestly it sounds like Logan has been given WAAAAY too much freedom, and too soon. If it were me, I'd have the new home start a strict Nothing in Life is Free program for *both* dogs, give Molly some more one-on-one time in the house w/o Logan present, and avoid leaving the dogs loose together unsupervised. Logan needs to have more structure and people who will ensure that he isn't practicing the behavior they don't want - NILIF and more supervision can only help with this. I'm guessing he did so well in your house because you naturally have more rules and structure by virtue of having multiple dogs. I know fosters tend to do quite well in my home, but their behavior often slips some when they go into a new one that lets them have more freedom; fosters here spend a fair amount of time crated at first, are never left unsupervised, and follow a strict work to earn program (NILIF basically). I also ensure the resident dogs get special priveledges and attention from me w/o the foster present to solidify their standing in my home.

We only do agility as far as sports go, and that's mainly for fun. Ina addition to agility, my older girl and I visit as a therapy dog team at a local retirement community and my younger dog and I are starting in Search and Rescue. Both activities get us out and about and build my skills with my dogs, and both help others.