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bc soul sista

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About bc soul sista

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  1. I second what everyone has to say about making sessions short...and fun!!! I train and compete in competitive obedience so I can let you know what I do... I am a HUGELY motivational trainer(although not all positive, I do implore some negative consequences and the occasional correction if needed)....The best obedience teams to me are the ones who are look like they are having FUN together!! And keeping a young dog having fun and motivated throughout his/her training is key!!! I'm a HUGE advocate for incorporating tricks into EVERYTHING!! And with pups and young dogs I do the same...what you are essentially teaching them is to WANT to train and work with you....you are teaching them how to learn... So...I use a crate while training(I'm a big advocate for "crate games")..teaching self control, encouraging leraning and learning that the crate is not a bad thing......I use crates also because I am working multiple dogs, and I can pop my pup/dog in and out of the crate to keep sessions fun and short....they can go in there crate and have a "time out"..process things and I'll pop em back out 10 minutes later and BOY are they eager and excited to work....gimme more they say!!! I know alot of positive trainers who will use the crate for this "time out" if they are working with there pup/young guy and they seem to loose interest...I know Denise Fenzi also uses the crate some in this manner....again, would go through "crate games" DVD first...Can't just start shoving a pup/dog in the crate and have them spaz attack...that will make things not fun real soon!! For teaching fast and fun recalls for obedience I use the "go get it" game"...my dogs LOVE this game and I willoften start out training sessions with my adult dogs doing this because it gets em all jazzed up!!! I have "rolly" treats..cheese balls or peanut butter captain crunch...show it to the pup or dog and chuck it(I do this in a ring..has to be a flat easily visible surface)...they take off after the rolling treat and right before they have it in there mouth I'll shout there name and a come command..they'll eat the treat and come tearing back in your direction..i'll throw another treat in the other direction...again repeating the come command and having them tear back at me.... Eventually I will teach the pup/young dog to come through my legs..so I open my legs and throw the treat in-between my legs....so when they are tearing back at me upon hearing there name and come command I throw the treat inbetween my legs, turn around and do it again...I and the session with throwing a toy inbetween my legs and tug after.... I add drop on recalls and fronts into this exercise as training progresses..... This whole exercise gets the dog driving...it's fun...I'm incorporating commands...and I'm keeping the dog guessing!!! I know some traininers who do this entirely with toys stuffed in there pants and not food...same idea....throw a toy...once they get it call them...throw one through you legs...turn..call them throw...etc.. end with tugging.. I'm a big advocate for tugging also...keeps them engaged in you and it's FUN!! My dog love it and it's there ultimate reward... I teach spins...I use them while heeling to mix things up/ and keep them in position and engaged....so I'll heel a few steps with a young dog and lure them to spin head out then get back in position and keep heeling...I'll also do leg weaves while heeling...it's great for a dog who forges...I'' heel awhile then ask for a few leg weaves then go right back into heeling... I teach my dogs to back up...and this helps with training signals as I want no forward movement..so I'll have fun sessions of backing up..asking for a down thenback up ask for a sit....then reward by throwing a toy behind the dog..never forward.... Rewarding at the right time is crucial...don't be afraid to ask more of your pup...if you set a goal they will work to meet it....don't reward for EVERYTHING if you are trying to get certain behaviors like speedier commands....I kinda have a reward tier system....treats that aren't super high value, super high value treats...jackpot for awesomeness and a toy is the ultimate reward...So if my dog doesn't give me a speedy response...in a fun voice I'll break him and tell him to "try again"...and keep working for what I want...then HUGE jackpot and tugging or toy when he gets it right....
  2. Hi Donald!! Yes I know there is no "Q" or "NQ" or title in USBCHA trialing...I guess I was trying to compare the fact that there is a standard though that is some what similar to the parameters in place for qualifying/non-qualifying rounds in other competitions... The dreaded RT(handler chooses to leave the post) or the DQ(judge gives ya the "thank you" you're done)...although not nearly as tough and sometimes silly(in AKC you get NQ'd in herding if you leave the arena without putting a leash on your dog)..they do have a basic level of competence that is expected.. Also, when you get an RT/DQ in USBCHA you get no score and you do not get any kind of placement with theother competitors....you can look up the breakdown of your scores on your own but nobody does that for you and comes out with a list of ranking in the class with the RT/DQ's included...only teams that get some kind of score.. It can actually be quite interesting...on tough sheep and in tough situations some dogs with pretty low actual scores win!! They got the job done when no one else could put a score on the board LOVE IT!!
  3. I'm just trying to understand this, I've never competed in agility before...thinking about giving it a shot with one of my guys...so this is interesting. In agility(certain organizations)...even if you don't qualify for the the class you are in..you can still place?? I've competed in a variety of venues for both herding and competitive obedience over the years(AKC, ASCA, USBCHA, AHBA, UKC)..and all of them have a basic standard which you must complete in order to "qualify"...this is just a basic level of work that is expected..if it's something that you are not reasonably able to manage at this level of training for you and your dog, then you shouldn't be competing. Examples of not readiness that I've seen(dogs that chase and take down sheep...or can't get there sheep at all or out of control..in obedience dogs who are sniffing all the time, can't do sit/down stays or are running around the ring while there owners do the heel pattern alone..etc, etc, etc) Either you as a trainer need to go back to the drawing board or the dog is super green and just needs time/consistency and ALOT of fun matches!! Non of these venues I've competed in would allow people who did not meet this basic standard to place also? The competitor whose dog chases down and bites sheep does not get a ribbon even if everyone else NQ's also...someones dog who has very little idea of what "heel" means and is running in and out of heel position during there run does not get a ribbon or placement even if the others NQ also? There must be a level of integrity at competitive events...or the people that are able to qualify with there dogs or even place highly in these events accomplishments are taken down a notch.. I have noticed in the events I've competed in there is a split between more competitive point seekers/HIT winners/etc..vs not so competitive people who are thrilled to qualify and get a title with there dog...that is totally cool!! I have utmost respect for both sets...but they do have to attain that standard, there's something to strive and work for.. Is there venues in agility where there are placements regardless? Maybe it's just so different from the others...
  4. I know in AKC you get a ribbon for qualifying even if you don't place... I'm kind of confused as to why a venue would give awards to teams that NQ? You didn't meet the basic requirments/standard to qualify on that course or in the ring/on the field? You'll need to go back to training and try and improve? What's the point of a competitive environment at all?
  5. Mmmmmm I make a pretty good effort to keep my guys healthy and fit... I believe the daily physical exercise keeps them healthy physicly and mentally....I know it sounds kinda silly but like a long hard day working the farm/field, I believe a good long walk at least once a day in varying locations helps calm the mind and gives them a feeling of going somewhere or accomplishing something Plus it's very calming for me also!! They get about an hour off-leash hike a day...I vary the locations for variety.. I usually warm them up for 5 minutes, and if I am going to do any cardio I do some fetching after the 5 minute warm ups...then do the rest of our hike after the more intense exercise....I found this to be way more beneficial than a loooonnngg hike and fetching at the end if there is any fetching..I'll vary a frisbee/bumper or tennis ball also to kind of mix it up Then I'll put the fetching toy away/back in the car whatever and finish our hike(they will relax and settle into there walk when the toy is away)... In the winter I mix it up with skijoring to get the heart rates up(human and canine ..throwing bigger ball toys/etc in deep snow....summmer we do ALOT of swimming/dock diving...and trail running....jogging and rollerblading in summer also...usually by a body of water so we can take a break and do some water retrieving/cool down... They get a good massage/look over about once a month... I've worked with a reputable rehab lady when my one guy pulled a groin muscle....and she urged(after rehab)..lots of hiking/off leash running...short spurts of cardio...and I ran hills with my dogs to strengthen there core and hind ends....I do those about twice a week... Most my sheepdogging friends let the weekly work on the farm/training on sheep do the conditioning for them and that seems to be fine for them...I do know if they are preparing for a big trial or a string of them..they usually take there dogs free-running or jogging next to a 4 wheeler for a couple miles a day to build endurance.. I understand the mentality of hyper-focusing on things....I know plenty of agility people that invest in there stretching/conditioning who's dogs get injured, or the latest fad on getting an edge with your dogs competitive wise seems to be popping up all to often...but it's probably safe to say that like any finely tuned athlete one that's fit and mentally/physically fit enough to do the job will have a higher probability of doing that job and staying injury free... I don't mind putting the work in as I enjoy staying physically fit and active myself so it's a win win I might cross the line at making my dogs try Yoga though...
  6. Jamie Spring in SD has some very nice dogs/pedigrees......I know of fantastic dogs coming out of some bloodlines in ND/SD but most people keep to themselves and don't advertise there litters.....Jamie has a nice website kept up to date and is very friendly..google Silver Spring border collies.. I have been at the Slash J trials a couple years now, VERY awesome with the top handlers in the country giving the huge challenging field and tough sheep a try...best trial I've ever seen and some incredible dog/sheep work.....
  7. Root Beer, what are you basing your knowledge on? Own personaly experience and opinions? I'm just curious.... I've recognized head turning/yawning/ etc during training sessions...noting it is a sign of stress but we work thorugh it.... The way I described the situation with the ear licking, and the events that escelate do not appear to be the dogs attempting to decrease stress....there "intent" seems quite intense and they are interacting in a manner that escelates that tension....
  8. I have seen mounting as what could be displacement behavior in neutered males..or spayed females...I've seen dogs getting seemingly over stimulated during rough play and try to mount... I've seen fights break out and damage done with mounting behaviors also, mostly in "intact" animals...if you're able to read body language there intent is definatly NOT play...My young bc was mounted and then attacked by an older intact male...and as I mentioned my female sustained injury after being mounted by a male and then bit... A breeder/trainer friend of mine brought forward the fact that ear licking/mounting in intact animals can lead to and can end in agression..and that the dogs "intent" is different...didn't throw out the cliche "dominant" term but they are usually jockeying for position/etc.. She also noted if a dog is neutered later in life he can still present some of these behaviors? I recommnended to this person with the two dogs that she seperate them when she sees the ear licking start but that would pretty much contradict the fact that the ear licking is a "calming" grooming ritual...both dogs look quite intense when it's going on and the fact that it escalates and turns into fighting I would be inclined to think that it does NOT have any sort of calming effect....the fact that ear licking has been observed in intact males before mounting and eventual agression would make me think it's more of a "dominance" thing...or the other dogs are being pushy or competing..
  9. Both neutered male dog start going back and forth between licking eachothers ears and..."other" parts...then one puts there head on the others back which leads to more tensions which eventually leads to fighting.....the ear licking starts it all off....so this chain of behaviors singals to me more "dominant" behvaior or the two are "jockeying" for position or whatever? They have been living together in the same household for a few months and were adopted as rescues about a month apart...
  10. If "licking the ears" is a calming behavior...why is it usually followed by a fight with the dogs in question? and in other observations why does ear licking in intact males precede mounting and then aggression?? How do explain why most mounting behaviors I see are followed by agression/my one dog got puncutre wounds in her face after a dog tried to mount her and she spung around...
  11. What do you all have to say about ear licking?? Is this a dominant behavior? Most ear licking I've seen from one dog to another preceeds mounting then usually agression? So I would assume the licker/mounter is being "pushy" towards the other dog? Dominant? Also, someone told me a "behaviorist" told her mounting is a behavior brought on by stress?? Really?! Thoughts/advice and opinions welcome...
  12. SO frustrating.....I thought maybe the dryer winter air is irritating it even more? I don't know what else to do...thanks for trying
  13. Hey Ya'll...... My younger bc(4 yrs old) has been doing this weird "reverse sneezing" thing off and on for the past yearor so.....It literally sounds like he can't breath/snorting..generally sounds awful!!! Sometimes can go on for 30 seconds or more until he seems to swallow...but then it can start again a minute later.... I have scoured the internet and asked around, even the vet...the only thing anyone could come up with is this "reverse sneezing" crap that's normally common in bracheocephalic breeds.... Well #1-now the other 2 dogs are doing it occasionally....ok, is it a coincidence that the other dogs are doing it aswell?? Could there be some kind of sickness present? All symptoms I see of upper respiratory infections in dogs have "coughing" or nasal discharge or SOME other symptom to which these dogs have none.... #2 - it seems to be getting worse...especially at NIGHT when we are trying to sleep!!!! I started giving him a couple Benadryl at night...thinking it may be allergies? Sometimes it seems to help...but last night I was up about 4 times to the sound of him having a breathing/snorting FIT!!! I actually had to resort to holding him in bed..(he was panting from stress)..and petting him..this seemed to calm him and the breathing/snorting fits stopped completely for the night.... I just feel terrible, he doesn't appear to have any other symptoms...I'm not sleeping, he's not sleeping...I would like to avoid medications beyond Benadryl.. Has anyone had ANY experience with this? I am just at a loss?
  14. Alright, I'll bite... I'm sure there were a whole SLEW of reasons to cause that dog to become aggresive, not just a rpong collar....as it's been mentioned ANY tool not used as intended can cause damage... Anyone with 1/2 a brain can easily use a prong collar...and in fact, is a lifesaver for most pet people that cannot physicly handle there dogs... I have seen hundreds of happy owners walk in and out of our training doors using and helped by using a prong collar......and the few that it did not help, were not using the collars correctly...
  15. Here in MN, I know Susane Hoffman(who is Vice President of the WWSDA) is planning a spring/summer litter....her and her husband are both VERY invilved in USBCHA trials and have been training/handling for quite awhile...they breed once every 4 years or so only when they are ready to add another training partner for each of themselves. They put an extreme amount of time in choosing the sire and making sure both parents are health tested above and beyond!!! There pups are well cared for and socialized! The bitch they are using is running in open and is very nice....super sweet to boot!! Another breeder I know of possibly having a summer litter is Meg Johnson(Silver wind farm)...she is an up and coming talented open handler and has worked hard to produce some excellent dogs in her breeding program. She has alot of imported dogs, including Aled Owen lines and Serge Van derZweep?(murdered the spelling)... Lori Perry might also be having another good litter in the next year.... That's all I got
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