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Everything posted by waffles

  1. How was trainable defined? How did they get the information from the owners? The owners own subjective observations? How were other variables factored in beside from being spayed/neutered? Did the owners know they were participating in a study about behavior changes after spay/neuter? How was fearfulness defined? What ages were the dogs in the study? What other factors were going on with the dog and owner's lives. I tried to find the article but just found generic links to articles about "should I spay or neuter my dog". Do you have a link?
  2. My youngest doesn't touch food until after she has been out and had a good walk or run. I feed my older male once per day though he gladly eats anything at anytime. I am one who thinks picky eaters are made. Unless there is a health issue he sounds normal, given the info you have provided. Try feeding once per day or feeding in the morning after he has been out for some exercise.
  3. If the dog is let out into the pool area, he should know how to swim. He should also know where the steps are to walk himself out of the pool. I can't imagine putting a life jacket on a dog every single time he goes outside forever. It is not difficult to teach most dogs to swim and show him how to walk himself out of the steps. Have your sister get in the pool with the dog, or walk the dog in on a leash or just toss a ball in. You may have to support his stomach until he gets the hang off paddling around. Both my dogs love water and swimming. My old guy had to be taught as he had never been to a creek, pond or lake before. Now he is a total water nut. Is the pool not fenced in? Or is the entire backyard fenced and the pool is not separate?
  4. One idea for leashing him up... Ask him to sit or lay down. With the leash in one hand, pretend to clip the leash on him while at the same time, take your other hand a offer him a treat. Keep your hand cupped so he has to kind of push his nose in your hand to get the treat out (giving you a second to pretend to clip the leash). Give him the treat and remove your other hand. Repeat. You're basically distracting him with a treat while you trach him that your approach with the leash means that he needs to be still (sitting or laying with his head still). Keep repeating it (over days) until you don't need the treat and he can hold a sit or down while you clip his leash on. He is also so adorable. Definitely can see the border collie and American Eskimo in him.
  5. You don't need to buy either of the expensive products listed. DIY (do it yourself) coyote rollers can be made from PVC pipes bought at the hardware store. Same with the 'cat proof fence', you can search online for what others have done to save yourself a lot of money. Fencing and long brackets can also be purchased at hardware stores. Some dogs despite enough mental and physical exercise, still enjoy climbing fences and running off. I would definitely think though, about what else you can do to keep her occupied during the day (walks, hikes, swimming, trick training, fetch, stuffed kongs, etc) that will lesson the desire to run off. It may also be necessary to just always be out with her or have her on a cable run for her own safety.
  6. Coyote rollers are what they are commonly called. You can google for DIY instructions. Also search online for 'cat proof fence'. You basically use netting/floppy type fencing that is staked at in inward (to your yard) incline. So the animal gets to the top and has to basically climb upside down to get up and over the fencing. Which is impossible/very difficult for a cat and dogs to do. Almost like putting a 'roof' on the gate. Here is a quick link... http://store.purrfectfence.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KIT-CONVERSION&buttonOutdoorCatEnclosuresConversion I would question though, if you make the gate impossible to climb over, can't she just climb another part of your fence? You would have to do the entire yard, unless I am picturing the problem incorrectly.
  7. I am sure others will give some good advice but i will say... someone needs to see the dog in person to help you. Advice online only goes so far as we are basing advice off of what you are telling us. Which is obviously very subjective, bias and definitely leaving out all the small things (body language and such that we can't see online). We would need to see how your dog interacts with your kids, you, and how your kids interact with the dog. There is little way for us to tell what the dog's intentions are and if he is safe to live with such young kids. Hopefully someone here can suggest a professional in your area who can come to your home and evaluate the situation. A dog his size shaking a 3 year old child doesn't sound safe and needs in person help. My guess though is that he needs more structure and clear boundaries in the home.
  8. You will need to treat the dog and the house. Otherwise they keep coming back. Read up on the life cycle of the flea. I personally use Advantage on my dogs spring-fall and stop in the winter. For a dog who has fleas, you will probably need to treat him more than once. If you are not comfortable using a room spray, you can just vacuum your entire house daily, empty the canister in the garbage outside. Wash all bedding that you can fit in your washer each week. I wouldn't use baking soda on the carpets as I would think it would ruin the filters. I have used borax when some mice came into a back room and brought fleas onto the cats. It is less flour-like than baking soda and it was fine in the vacuum. I have never had any luck with any natural product in regards to ridding an animal of fleas. To prevent them maybe, but once the pet has fleas, no natural remedy has ever worked for me. I know some people are not comfortable with topical treatments. You can also call your vet to see what products are working best in your area.
  9. As the neighbor in your scenario, it is rude and incredibly annoying to allow a dog to roam into someone else's yard. Your specific neighbor may not mind or at least not be willing to let you know he minds but no one appreciates it. We have had a few talks with our only neighbor who seems to have a rural old fashioned view on dogs wandering. I think after 5 years we have made some head way. He seems to think our acreage is a dog park for his dogs to do as they please unattended and it has been very hard to get through to him while keeping the peace. Put up a fence, put in an underground fence, tie him up or stay outside with him. Don't put your neighbors in the awkward position to have to either say something to you or smile and pretend they don't mind while they complain about it to their spouses.
  10. I just fill them with canned dog food. Stick them in the freezer in the morning and give them to the dogs at night. Usually occupies them for 30+ minutes. I only do kong's in the winter really. A few times per week. It's a treat and not part of their regular diet.
  11. It is not true. Motion sickness is caused by your eyes perceiving motion and your inner ear canal sensing motion in a different way. I don't think those things are for sale anymore because they are a scam. At least for motion sickness they are. Maybe they help you not get shocked while entering/exiting your car but definitely are not for sale for the purpose of treating motion sickness. For Levi, I know it is something about the specific car that freaks him out as I know he can ride in my car without looking like he has motion sickness. The OP's dog, sounds like she has motion sickness. Just like some people have it and some don't, I would think some dogs experience it and some do not. Training, desensitizing may not help then. My poor brother always vomits on planes, boats, roller coasters, even a helicopter ride once. It's just his body's reaction unless he takes dramamine.
  12. That is so sad sounding. I feel for Levi when he does go in my husbands car. One thing that helped him was opening the window enough so he could stick his nose out and smell the fresh air. It was just so strange as the very first time we opened the car door he said 'nope' and walked away. Now he at least jumps in but once we get going he gets stressed. Maybe it was the new car smell? Your girl sounds pretty bad off with the car issue. What I am envisioning from your posts, I would definitely consider medication. It may help now while you continue to get her accustomed to the car and may eventually be able to not need the meds. Are you able to crate her in the car? Wonder if that might help a bit.
  13. Levi doesn't get car sick but he hates my husbands new car (which we have now had for 2 years). He has never been traumatized by a car. Has always known my car and my husbands previous car and always rode just fine. But when he got a new car, that is much smoother and quieter than his previous or my current car, he immediately was nervous. I figured it is a nicer ride, if anything he would appreciate it! We took it slow, fed him treats (that he never touched) and had him practice going in and out, short rides, to Tim Horton's drive thru, etc. Fast forward 2 years and he will occasionally take a treat in his car but he still drools (the side of the door used to be soaking wet) though less than before, his eyes get buggy and he carries his head a bit low the whole ride. We just have never figured out what it was. He never had a problem with the car before. We normally take my car places with the dogs since I have a back seat cover and since he is comfortable in my car. In the 2 years he has eased up a bit on the nervousness but just slightly. I wish you luck though. By violent sickness do you mean vomiting? Has fasting helped (not feeding her that morning until you get back)?
  14. If you can, baby gate the front door so she can't get out while you work on training. The main issue is not recall but impulse control at the door. You want her to not run out the door in the first place, yes? I would search online for videos for teaching door manners and impulse control. You should be able to easily open your door and come in/out without her pushing through to escape. She should be able to sit/down and wait at the door. You can practice by having her on a leash and opening the door, closing the door, repeating. Videos will help show how to set this up so she learns that the door opening is not an invite to run. Reward her for waiting calmly. You can also try to find a competent trainer to come to your home even once or twice to show you how to work on the door issue. In person training can be invaluable as they can point out the small things you may miss when training.
  15. A pile of towels at the door. And a cut 5ft section of an old hose attached to the spigot. We have a rural, muddy, old farm property in NY. Which means no lush lawn, just hay fields and something resembling a lawn area that is mostly tree roots, rocks, grass and weeds. So we have the same issue with mud now since it snows, then warms up and all melts. It has been raining for days too. I keep a pile of towels at the door to wipe some of the mud off and just let them hang in the enclosed porch for a bit until some of it dries and falls off. I mop the downstairs of the house daily. When they run, mud splashes onto their backs. So basically their entire body has some mud on it. Straw and wood shavings will just lead to mud with straw and wood shavings embedded into it. And all that straw and wood shavings will be tracked into your house. It would take so much to cover even a small yard so not sure how it would work unless you were talking about a small pen/fenced area.
  16. Your dog might be confused with the training. Each click should follow with a reward. Clicking numerous times for numerous behaviors and then eventually giving a treat, is probably confusing him. Click, reward- should be the sequence to be the most clear to the dog. If the dog knows the behavior, there is obviously no harm in asking for several tricks before rewarding or praising him. But clicking for each and not rewarding for the click, is probably confusing him.
  17. I would fill it out now even though you are moving. Have it on file with them so they are aware that you are a serious adopter. Then when a dog or puppy comes in that you are interested in, you are already pre-approved. A cat should never have to boss a puppy around. As someone with two border collies and two cats, I feel the dogs should never bother the cats to the point that they are stressed. The one dog came to us as an adult and was scared of the cats at first. The other came in as a 10 week puppy and it was probably a full year before she could be left alone with the cats. She always loved them, was gentle with them, and one is her playmate (they bat each other around) but... she was also a puppy and that in itself means that she could be rude, in their face and want to chase them longer than they wanted to be chased/played with. It is definitely easier to bring in an adult dog that is already known to be okay with cats vs. a friendly pup that is going to want to play with the cats, even if gentle and polite. GHF does cat test their dogs but it is still up to the individual cats in your home to get along with the puppy. Each cat, like each dog, is not the same. My cats are quite confident and sleep on the bed with the dogs. If I had more nervous, shy cats, they would probably hate and be stressed out by my young dog. Any young pup coming into a home with cats is most likely going to need some management by the humans until they really mature and settle in to the household. Just something to think about. Also, my young one was the shyest and most docile when I picked her up. Her littermates all came up to us on their own and she had to be picked up to meet us. Well, fast forward and she is annoyingly outgoing with anyone and everyone, especially total strangers. Our biggest focus on training as a puppy and into adulthood was being calm greeting strangers when out on a leash and at the door in the house. She is fabulous now at almost 2 years old but it was a lot of work to get her to not go over threshold when meeting people. I never would have predicted that from the puppy we first met. Puppies are always a crap shoot in many ways.
  18. Not sure where you are located but Glen Highland Farm recently took in a litter of puppies. Plus other puppies are available as well if you are set on a pup and not a dog. http://www.glenhighlandfarm.com/ghfdogs.htm You can also look at handlerspost.com
  19. I have only met one Border Terrier, as they are not that common here in the US as I suspect they may be in the UK. But, any good rescue or shelter should have no problem helping test a dog you are interested in with the scooter. You can and should do a meet/greet with the dog and test out walking the dog along the scooter to get an idea of what he/she may be like. They should also have you bring your current dog so they can meet before adoption. Best of luck in your search.
  20. What is the actual potty schedule? At 6 months I wouldn't wait until he tells you he needs to go out. Take him out before that point. If he drinks lots of water, take him out 10 minutes later, then again 20-30 minutes after that. Praise/reward for peeing outside. Take him out also after he has been active/exercising. In the house, I would do everything that rushdoggie just suggested. Do not give him the opportunity to go in the house. Good luck! A little hard work now will pay off later.
  21. At 4 months, I would be doing more than one 20 min. leashed walk. Others may disagree but I would be doing several short walks per day letting her set the pace. Since you are in an apartment, a long line (15+ ft leash) can help let her out to explore a grassy area. Letting her greet other dogs on leash is okay, provided she is not pulling you towards that person/dog and most important, you have asked the person if it is okay. Most people just let their dogs pull up to another dog then say 'she is friendly' or 'can they meet' when they are already 6" apart. If the other dog is dragging their owner over, don't let her meet them. The surest way to teach her leash manners is to set the situation up with someone you know, who has a dog you know is friendly to puppies, and practice letting her walk up to meet them calmly. Are you sure there is no obedience class or puppy class at any daycare, boarding or vet in your area? Most areas have something to offer, unless you are in a remote location. Letting her greet other dogs in a controlled setting is always less stressful then finding a stranger on the sidewalk and hoping their dog is friendly with yours.
  22. I don't know what kind of rescue you are fostering for (is it a border collie rescue or an all breed?) but I don't think the rescue did a good job matching the dog with you as a foster home. It does not sound like a dog that should be in a home with owners who have no dog training experience or border collie experience. It sounds like you have your heart in the right place but just from reading the post (of course I have never actually seen the dog) I think the dog needs a lot of training from an experienced person to make him safe and happy to live with. He is young and green, and has a lot of potential I am sure to make a great companion. I agree that he sounds very stressed and may calm down a bit in the next few weeks. But the behaviors will not just go away on their own. I would be open and honest with the rescue about the type of placement he needs and ask if they have a more experienced foster home that can take him in. At the very least the rescue should help you out with an in-home trainer or group classes (if he can even handle that).
  23. My advice is to find a good puppy obedience class. Ask for a reference from your vet, check reviews online, ask friends, co workers. It sounds like you are new to dog training and good in person guidance can be invaluable. Your pup is young and still needs to learn how to walk in a loose leash which will take time and active training. For picking stuff up in her mouth, teach a "drop" command so you can just ask for the object. There is no reason to physically pull things out of her mouth then. I always recommend new owners to watch videos on YouTube by "kikopup". Her videos are easy for new owners to follow.
  24. NY state law requires it by 4 months of age. I have had pets vaccinated at 3 months plus a few days but not earlier. I think NY defines active immunization at 14 days after the initial vaccine. What state is your friend in?
  25. I am sorry you had a terrible, useless trainer. She said that because she does not have the tools to help you. Not because you and your dog cannot learn to take a nice walk together. Dogs don't pull on leashes because they are rescues, they do so because they have not been taught what pressure on the leash means. She pulls and she get to continue walking, even if it is after a pause (like people 'being a tree', turning the other way, etc). I will PM some helpful links and videos. I do think that finding a qualified trainer is going to be the best approach to really work with you and your dog in person. I think of leash walking as a developed skill, not something to be learned overnight or fixed with a product from the store.
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