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2bc4me

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  1. If only they could learn by watching. Quin loves watching the training videos with me.
  2. I had sessions with a Vet Behaviorist. My fearful reactive dog was put on beef flavored chewable prozac tablets for 6 months as we worked through his issues. It helped take the edge edge off his anxiety. He was never cured. I had to manage him for the rest of his life. However, we were able to take group obedience classes after that. We were also able to go take herding lessens and compete in AKC/ASCA/AHBA trials at the started levels.
  3. When each of my dogs were that young, I had x-pen gating that I could set up in what ever room I was in. As they got older, the x-pen space grew until it was nearly a quarter of the room. In the x-pen there were the safe toys and chews. They had quiet time in the x-pen that time of night so there was not much destruction going on. They also learned that evenings are a settle down time. It was a perfect time for the stuffed kong. They were with me in the room, but had to amuse themselves. I also made sure to get the smaller 2 ft ones so I could step over them. Since they were never used unsupervised, I easily taught my dogs to stay in and not jump out just cause they could.
  4. Definitely find a vet behaviorist. I had a bc who was fear aggressive toward other dogs. We followed a program that, 6 months later, allowed him to be ok near and around other dogs. He was never totally cured, never alone with nor ever unsupervised around other dogs. I managed his condition for the rest of his life. He learned to herd sheep and competed in AKC/AHBA herding trials. Due to his reactivity, that was an uphill battle, but, it was so much better for his mind than chasing a ball. There is help out there. I urge you to to find it. I also agree that the dog park is not a good idea for reactive dogs.
  5. I had one that got bored in his crate about that age and chewed the tip of his tail also. It took years to grow back correctly. He had toys and other chews in there with him, but who can tell what goes through a puppy’s brain.
  6. I have three at this time. My oldest boy, Quin, eats everything that is, or might be, food. I watch what I feed him as he has a tendency to be fat. My girl will eat when she is hungry and leaves the food when not. My young boy, Bard, is the one that leaves food. I have to police the bowls because I do not want Quin to ‘help’ by finishing what Bard leaves. All of bcs have been thin when young, but Bard is a bit thinner than the others had been.
  7. Thanks for the responses. Maybe my other bcs had a coats long enough that I did not notice exactly how thin they were. I will give him more time to mature. He cannot be starving because he leaves food in his bowl.
  8. What a difference a year makes. We needed to put the mileage in. I needed the repetition of watching the sheep to start to see the movement before it happens. Sometime around June, I could see her starting to actually maintain pressure on the sheep as she was driving them. This is still a work in progress, but it has gotten so much better. As she learned that, the line straightened as the sheep are now moving forward instead of being turned by her slipping to one side. On another good note, this year I learned to shut up and let her work. It is amazing how good she is doing her job without my interference.
  9. I think my 1 1/2 year old smooth coat bc Bard is too thin. His hip bones are so prominent, they can be seen from a distance. I have never had problems keeping weight on a dog before. I am feeding him Acana. I can get him to eat about 2 cups a day. He is a very slow eater and gets distracted from eating easily. I offer him food twice a day, as much as he wants for about 15 minutes each time. He does not have parasites. He is very active. At what point do you get concerned about a dog being too lean? What do you feed to help put weight on him?
  10. I have made mistakes while teaching my 4 yr old to drive. She does not want to walk into pressure on the drive and slides off to either side. Usually the side that will allow her to turn the sheep back to me. What I am trying is taking a position off to the side of her and walking in parallel calling her in when I see the sheeps heads start to turn. My biggest issue is that I do not see the sheep turning until they are more than 45deg away from where they were going. I flank her, we over correct and the whole thing turns into a zig zag mess. Assuming that I can train myself to see the sheep turning in time to give her direction/correction, what can I do to help her stay in position and walk into the pressure?
  11. I have read good and bad about Bio-Sensor. This consists of 5 small exercises that expose a very young pup to controlled stress. The theory is that the immune system is strengthened, the dog is better able to handle stress and has improved social skills. The good: http://www.breedingbetterdogs.com/article/early-neurological-stimulation The bad: http://www.border-wars.com/2012/02/bio-sensor-is-bad-science-the-failure-of-super-dog.html I just seeking personal opinions about this. Does it work?
  12. I knew 2 dogs that had that problem. The first was feed pizza and lots of other human junk food. The other was fed a vegetarian diet. But who knows if they would have had the same issue on regular dog food. They were wicked bad to be near. You have my sympathy. Good luck!
  13. We had a once a month pill for the family dog. My mother would make spaghetti for the family that night and make a serving for the dog after our dinner. She would cut the spaghetti into small pieces, top that with some of the sauce, cut the meatball into pieces, load one of the meatball pieces with the pill then top it all with grated cheese. He never failed to eat the pill. We teased her about this, but she said she was not spoiling the dog because she used generic cheese and not the good stuff.
  14. The last post left off my smiley face. Here it is.
  15. Nope, the peewee league is the PT course for AKC and the JHD for AHBA. Novice in USBCHA is at least Little League.
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