Stacie R.

The most important thing for me is instructors who are willing to work with where I am and my dog is. Also it's important to me that instructors respect that I know my dog best and know how far to push and what her limitations are. The best advice I got before starting agility was to always have fun.

I also teach both (as do the trainers at my training center). They have both been useful. I've used them some in agility but I find them even more useful in everyday life (I'm teaching Daisy to close the door right now using targeting because if the stinker can open it the least she can do is close it).

We've been working on noise phobias by building positive associations. When there is a loud noise (thunder, fireworks, the teeter slamming on the floor) I give tons of treats and throw a little party. I look like a fool but it is working. Daisy is gettting a lot better about noises. Instead of cowering and barking she looks to see what kind of foolish dance I will do. For Daisy I had to use both a DAP diffuser and Rescue Remedy, neither were effective on their own. Also there is a Bach Flower Remedy specifically for Noise Phobia (http://www.bachflower.com/Pets.htm) and some holistic vets are able to mix special Bach Flower remedies specific for each dog. Patricia McConnell also had a couple good blog posts about thunder phobia http://www.theotherendoftheleash.com/categ...phobia-in-dogs/

I've seen this method recommended before but I haven't used it. http://www.coonhound911.org/info/display?PageID=2400 I just used some boundary training (and we also do some prevention). My dogs are not allowed in the kitchen unless they are on their "spot". I used body blocking to "herd" them to their spot. Then rewarded them for being there and staying there. Making sure to reward them sometimes for just being there. You don't want them thinking they can get up then rush back to their spot to earn another reward. It's been very successful and I'm able to pretty easily give them a new "spot" in every kitchen we are in.

My dogs don't stop to sniff or potty on walks so I can't imagine why the same rules couldn't be applied to a run. I simply don't allow it. They heel and pay attention to me while walking unless released from their heel. For my dogs their default behavior is an attentive heel but we also have a "leave it" command if there is a particularly interesting thing that I want them to ignore. I think would increase the distance gradually if your dog isn't used to running that distance without breaks yet.

Another Jean Donaldson book to check out is Fight!. There is a whole section in the book dealing with resource guarding, dog to dog.

Positive reinforcement based training has done wonders for my nervous pup. We started with just basic obedience, then silly tricks and now we are doing agility. But her confidence was built through the process of training using positive reinforcement no matter what the particular behavior.

Both of mine do it too. Scout (our GSD mix) also likes to do it when he's trying a new food. We found that out the first time we gave him a banana piece to try.

We have taken classes with both of our dogs. I do think it is possible to train without formal classes but I don't have the experience neccesary to do it. Plus the classes provided an environment that I would have to work harder to create myself (distractions, socialization, etc). For obedience classes my dogs knew most of the behaviors before we started but the distractions in a group setting provided extra training oppurtunties. Also one of my dogs is highly reactive around other animals and our training facility has given me a safe place to have him around other dogs while we work on his reactiveness (he's taken basic obedience 1 and 2, a focused attention class and wil start Rally this month). My other dog is in Agility and I know for sure that I do not have the experience or knowledge to train her for that on my own. I need the guidance of experienced people so I don't hurt her or myself. I have also found classes to be a great bonding experience for me and the dogs. Plus it gives me the oppurtunity to see and talk with other humans that have similar interests. So we get a lot more then good behavior out of the classes we take making them well worth it.

I forgot to add in my first response I think all dogs should be comfortable in a crate even if they don't need to be in one everyday. I've seen dogs who in older age suffered from dementia and crating would have kept them much safer but they were never crate trained and by then it was too late. Dogs often need restricted activity to recover from an injury and what better place than a crate. In an emergency situation many evacuations require that dogs be crated. The examples are endless. I think every dog should be comfortable in a crate just in case.

I'm a suburban owner and do not work my dogs on sheep. My dogs are crated (indoors) for their safety and to ease anxiety not because they don't have an off switch. One dog isn't always crated but for longer periods of time he is. Our younger dog is a nervous nellie and her crate is her safe place. She is markedly less anxious when crated while we are gone. We also play fetch (with one dog at least, my youngest isn't interested). We also do on leash walks. I think either activity is as mindless or as engaging as the handler makes it. Since fetch has been discussed to death in another thread I won't go into that. Walks don't have to be mindless. My dogs probably have more commands or learned behaviors relating to walk than anything else (except maybe agility). They have two different heel commands (also loose leash walking not on heel), commands to change positions, commands for ignoring distractions, automatic sits anytime I stop, and a variety of other behaviors that I expect on walks. They certainly don't just meander about on a leash stopping and starting when they feel like it and sniffing anything they want. They work when we walk (which is pretty much daily). It certainly isn't the only thing I do for mental and physical stimulation but it does play a part. My dogs are not generally out of control or under stimulated so that has nothing to do with why or when they are crated.

We use them as well with both of our dogs. I do double leash them in new environments or when the squirrels and rabbits are particularly active just for extra control and safety. If they are fitted properly they shouldn't slip off and shouldn't rub. I use the GL head collar in conjunction with a ton of training (we used targeting to teach heel). Both of my dogs do heel without it but when out walking I have both of them and it is easier and safer with the GL head collar as a back up to their training because if they wanted to they could take off with me. Glad it's working for you too.

One of our dogs has a problem with digestion. She will throw up bile if her stomach gets to empty and like other posters we use cookies near bedtime to combat this. We do also use yogurt as a probiotic in her food especially on days when she has had anything other than normal food or treats (like class days when she gets hotdogs and cheese). It has really helped.

Stacie R (stac928@hotmail.com) Jefferson City, MO (right in the middle of Missouri) Will travel up to 2 hours Pontiac Vibe Have extra crates Willing to pull from shelters Can hold overnight Available most weekends, some weekd day evenings [transferred to database]

We also used Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell to work with our overly anxious dog. She also has a blog that has some posts that can help as well (www.theotherendoftheleash.com). We worked through the book and also have had great sucess with positive reinforcement training (we use a clicker because she repsonds very well to it but it isn't the only way). I have also really had to re-train myself to know that I am my dog's best advocate. I know Daisy's limits better than others and it is my job to make sure she isn't pushed too far too fast or overstimulated to the point of shutting down. If that means I step in between her and a child that isn't listening when I say she isn't interested in being petted, or between her and another dog who isn't backing off when she displays fear signals, or remove her from a situation that is too much then so be it. Of course I'm always working towards her being comfortable enough to be in normal social settings but in the meantime I need to make sure I do what is best for her.