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About GentleLake

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  1. I'm guessing you have little or no idea about his past, so he could have some negative associations with going outside. I treat any dog that comes into my home not house trained like I do a puppy, no matter the age. If you can't be watching him for signals that he's getting ready to go, then crate him when no one can be watching. This is the clue to what you need to be doing until he understands. He'll get it. Just be patient.
  2. GentleLake

    New Puppy Older Female BC

    Puppies aren't always welcome additions to dog families, at least not at first. Follow the advice above and things should themselves out in time.
  3. GentleLake

    Strange Tan Appearing?

    Sable? Probably not if it's limited to the top of her head though.
  4. GentleLake

    Is a BC right for me?

    What D'Elle said, plus I'd add that you should be aware that not all border collies do well with toddlers. In fact, it's one of the most common reasons border collies end up in rescues. Toddlers' unpredictable behavior, movements and screeching can be wildly overstimulating to border collies, plus they can have the propensity to try to control movement (it's what they were bred for after all) and may sometimes nip in the process. Many border collies are fine with toddlers, but it's most definitely not universal and it's something you need to be aware of. There's really no way to predict with a puppy whether it will be a dog who's overstimulated by children or not. You can do everything right in raising the puppy and still end up with one who can't live comfortably and/or safely (not necessarily the same thing, but both equally important for the well being of the dog and the family) with young children. So, if you're still thinking you want a border collie, I'd recommend looking for an adult rescue whose temperament and tolerance for children is known. Best wishes.
  5. GentleLake

    Bald elbow?

    It's not terribly unusual on dogs who lay on hard surfaces a lot. Maybe rub something like coconut oil or cocoa butter into it, but not sure it'll make much difference in terms of hair growth.
  6. It depends. I live pretty far away from most of the coverage area of the rescue I volunteer for. I joke that I'm on the western frontier. But I can do things like application reviews that are done on line. A lot of the ppl on the intake committee never see most of the dogs that come in, but they can field inquiries from ppl asking about relinquishing a dog or liaise with shelters that might get dogs in we can help with, etc. There are usually jobs that need to be done that don't require in person interaction. But if someone contacts us just to tell us who they are and chat about border collies as you initially suggested, we politely tell them to fill out an application and we don't engage any further. No one really has the time for much more interaction than that that usually doesn't end up going anywhere.
  7. No. Definitely don't do that unless you want to just make a pest of yourself and make a bad impression. Remember that these folks are all volunteers with families, jobs, other commitments and most likely (multiple) dogs and/or fosters of their own to care for. The last thing they want to do is get flooded with emails and other forms of communication while you run off about yourself. I volunteer for a border collie rescue in the Northeast, so ask me how I know. Even if you're not currently in a position to foster, there are plenty of other things that rescues need help with including fundraising, committees for things like applications and intake, help with transport, etc. Contact them and ask them how you can be useful, but don't take waste their valuable time.
  8. What D'Elle said. Some trainers advise not allowing the dog to have the treat you've asked them to leave, instead having another one (perhaps even a higher value one) at the ready to reward with instead. You can then begin to fade the reward later, having then taught a "leave it" without the expectation of an immediate food reward. I didn't run across that variation till I'd already trained several dogs to leave it -- but I did use it with the last puppy I trained simply because that's what the trainer was doing in the class. The idea is that this way the dog doesn't learn that she'll get the forbidden item eventually and perhaps think it's OK to take it on her own once no one's looking, or to have the expectation that she'll get the treat eventually. Sometimes when we need to tell the dog to leave it it's just not practical or safe to allow them to have the forbidden item. I'm not really sure if this is more effective in this regard or not, but did want to mention it.
  9. Best. cue. evah! Bodhi's playing dead isn't the best (he doesn't usually put his head the whole way down), but I just might have to start working on it again and steal this cue. My favorite trick is "do your Yoga." It's a deep front stretch, which is also on cue as "take a bow," followed by a pronounced back leg stretch. The only way I know to teach it is to capture it when the dog does it on his own, usually first thing in the morning or after a good nap, beginning with a marker (I use a mouth click or "Yes!") and a treat and then adding the cue. It takes a while -- in my experience capturing a behavior like this is never too quick because you have to wait for the dog to do it in the first place and then for her to realize she's going to be rewarded for it -- but well worth the effort. I may just have to work on Ruth's tricks too, especially Peek-a-boo. Tricks are lots of fun when we're making therapy visits.
  10. There are other opinions about that: https://suzanneclothier.com/article/problem-head-halters/ I would think using one in a situation like car chasing could do some of the damage she cautions against.
  11. Every time you let him get away with that you're reinforcing his lack of recall. IOW, he's learning that coming when he's called is optional because there's nothing to enforce it. And it's self rewarding for him to do whatever he wants to rather than come back to you when he knows the fun's over. If I were you I'd start recall training all over again with a new cue because whatever cue you're using now has been tainted. Put him on a long line and reel him back in every single time he blows you off. When he gets to you, throw a party like it was his idea to respond in the first place. Never call him back to you for the purpose of ending his fun.
  12. IMO, if you're really not ready for a dog now it doesn't make much sense to start looking now. No rescue's going to hold a dog for you until you've gotten things together. . . . . . . . unless you're willing (and able) to go ahead if that right dog shows up. And as for your considering fostering, keep in mind that many rescues will pay medical expenses that crop up, but you'd be responsible for feeding and whatever incidental expenses that you'd incur for another dog. So make sure you know what you're signing up for before you apply to foster.
  13. GentleLake

    Post Spay Exercises

    Well, I know after I was spayed I needed to ease back into things even when I thought I felt better, so I'd think that would make sense for a dog too.
  14. GentleLake

    Post Spay Exercises

    I would follow the vet's advice. Most dogs really don't need specific rehab after a spay, just a chance to heal.
  15. Yep. You need to get a crate for him ASAP. Every time he's able to eliminate in the house, it will just make it harder to break the habit. If you're in the US you might be able to find a used one on Craigslist or similar type website. You might also consider feeding him his larger meal earlier in the day with just a small meal, or no second meal at all, later in the day. My dogs are fed once a day at around 11:00 am.