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GentleLake

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About GentleLake

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  1. GentleLake

    Keeping my busy boy busy!

    Weight bearing bones from large ungulates are too hard for dogs and pose a great risk for breaking teeth. Even ribs and necks are often too hard for most dogs. Better to make bone broth from beef/bison bones. Freezing them make them mush more dangerous. Now if you can get tracheas to stuff and freeze, that's a much safer option.
  2. GentleLake

    Raising a calm city pup

    Awesome! Well done, both of you.
  3. Please keep us posted. Best wishes for a good outcome.
  4. I really know very little about lung worm, but coincidentally this just came up on my FB feed: https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2019/01/20/lungworm.aspx?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=facebookpets_lead&utm_campaign=20190120_lungworm&fbclid=IwAR1vWMU-bdpmqF-84HeTS21MGqY627PjG9V8o9sDL_LHRJ4XiyPAEVN8R40
  5. Welcome to the Boards, and sorry your older guy's having some difficulties. My first question is what tests the vet did to determine there were lungworms and/or bacterial infection present. Myself, I always want confirmation of things before treating for things the dog may or may not have, and overuse of antibiotics, especially when there's no bacterial infection to treat, is the primary reason for the development of so many antibiotic resistant bacteria. You don't mention where you live, but has the dog been tested for heartworm? Both cough and labored breathing can be symptoms of heartworm infestation. Depending on what diagnostics the vet did -- or didn't do -- I might consider a second opinion with another vet. Hoping things get better for him.
  6. GentleLake

    Wheeler

    He sure is purdy.
  7. GentleLake

    Elderly dog's possible seizure?

    Wishing sweet Meg and you the best . . .
  8. Second this! Do everything you can to make the vet's office a happy place. Lots of treats and happy praise during visits that have no other purpose than this. Many of my dogs have loved going to the vet because of this, and even my very sensitive fraidy dog tolerates it even if he doesn't actually enjoy it. If there are other dogs there whose clueless owners let them approach your dog, then kindly but firmly tell them to keep their dogs to themselves. This goes for anywhere, not just at the vet's. As for cars and traffic, lots of short fun excursions to fun places with lots of treats on the way can also condition your dog to love the car, or at least tolerate it. Going to a new home away from all that's familiar -- especially as this often happens during a time when puppies are going through fear stages -- can be traumatizing. Do your best to be upbeat and supportive and distract with lots of yummy or fun things doing these stressful times for her and there's an excellent chance she'll learn to shake them off and become more confident.
  9. GentleLake

    How can I use his focus?

    Here's a nice, if basic and not very detailed, article about understanding what we need to know to help our dogs learn self control: https://suzanneclothier.com/article/guidelines-teaching-self-control/
  10. GentleLake

    How can I use his focus?

    That's not focus; it's obsession. The same applies to cars; it's not herding focus, but obsession and it's not a desirable trait. And I'm I'm not a fan of encouraging obsessions. Yes, I throw the ball occasionally for my ball-obsessed border collie, but I call the shots about when and how long we play and when we're done he knows it. I put the ball away at other times. I'm not sure where this misconception originated, but it's been addressed here on the Boards repeatedly. The obsession with movement is not "herding focus." It's rooted in prey drive, which can easily become obsession with movement, especially in obsessive-compulsive prone breeds like border collies. Training a pup to lie down when cars go by is an excellent strategy, but it's not "harnessing" anything. In fact, it's doing exactly the opposite, teaching a dog to exert self control in the presence of the trigger of her obsession and not to act compulsively on the impulse. It's classic behavior modification and is the best way to curb CCD behaviors and is most effective when started as soon as they begin to develop.
  11. GentleLake

    Look Ma, No Crate.

    But, but, buuuuut . . . That sure sounds like you're recommending confinement, doesn't it?
  12. GentleLake

    Potty training vs marking

    I'm basing my caution against it from having the exact opposite experience. And knowing other foster dogs that it didn't help with either. OP can try it, but it'll just set her back more if it doesn't work.
  13. That's just avoiding the problem, not doing anything to curb it. Follow the training recommendations you've already received here. Re: the cat, the first problem is that you allowed the cat to terrorize the puppy. You should have supervised their interactions from day one and not permitted the cat to be an ass to the puppy. You still shouldn't allow it from the cat.
  14. GentleLake

    Potty training vs marking

    Agree w/ no to the penny can and I forgot in my first reply to say that neutering probably won't help. It's a training issue, not simply a hormone issue. I had a spayed female who was the most prodigious marker. My current neutered male marks anywhere I allow him to but will stop if I tell him to because I trained him to and didn't give up in the first 5 minutes. Belly bands just contain the urine; they rarely do anything to curb the behavior and like any other self rewarding behavior it will just make actual training slower each time he pees in the belly band. Training requires patience and good timing. Your best bet it to practice patience, learn to predict the marking before it happens and be consistent. It will probably take longer now because this wasn't nipped in the bud, so you need to be 100% consistent in learning that tell and never letting him do it again if you want it to stop.
  15. GentleLake

    Potty training vs marking

    Treat it just like house training, because although it's an adolescent male behavior that's still essentially what it is. The difference with normal house training is that you can't take him out preemptively. Watch him like a hawk and when you see him getting ready to mark, give him a quick verbal correction such as "no", "knock it off", "ahh ahh" or whatever you choose and immediately take him outside. Praise lavishly when he goes outside. And you're going to have to take him other places in order to teach him that marking indoors isn't appropriate anywhere. Wait until you've got it down at home and that he understands the interruptor and will respond to it. You'll be able to use the interruptor at other times outside when you don't want him to mark someone's flower bed or you just want to walk without having to stop every 15 seconds for him to pee.
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