How do you teach a big dog to stay off?
#21
Posted 09 June 2012 - 01:46 PM
As for the counter surfing, Bell did outgrow that habit although she will take things left on coffee table if unattended. Just have to keep counter clear till she figures it out.
A BC will learn something within a hour to a day but an OES will take a lot longer. Pick 1 habit to focus on at a time and just keep at till they get it. Then work on next habit while occasionally reinforcing learned ones.
My Bell is coming up on 7 and she still acts like a puppy..they never grow up. :-)
#22
Posted 09 June 2012 - 02:10 PM
In my opinion, the dog is over stimulated at this point and that is why these approaches do not work. Turning your back is meaningless as the dog will just continue to jump on your back. I worked with a relatives 90lb husky mix that literally left deep claw scratches all over me from his jumping.
Ouch and I agree with your post for the most part, but truly, part of the reason to remove interaction by ignoring the dog and turning away is that you are removing the stimulation. Eventually, the dog *will* stop jumping and if you can then interact they will figure out over time it doesn't work. Especially for a super friendly bouncy dog who really does want your attention.
Getting your v=back clawed sounds like no fun though. You need a Kevlar jacket.
Training is a journey, not a destination. If you think you’ve arrived, you’ve already missed out.
Denise Fenzi
#23
Posted 10 June 2012 - 09:16 AM
I don't fully get what you said but I think you are saying that ignoring and turning away are going to work with these dogs? The dog I worked with, this was definitely not the case. I mean literally, the dog spent about 30min. digging at my flesh, jumping at my face, head butting me, all the while I stood against a wall "ignoring it". That tactic was clearly not safe for me (I am only 95lbs and they have children who come over as well) or the rest of my family. The dog had to learn to approach people who entered his house in a calm way. For this dog (and obviously I am giving advice based on the one dog I worked with that had such a severe problem) ignoring was dangerous and the dog was not learning anything. The dog was also mouthy-grabbing my arms with his teeth and his claws. It only took a couple days of short training-setting up the situation where we walked in, and he was not allowed to approach us unless calm and was rewarded for being calm. The main problem for this dog was being overly excited to see new people walk into his house. This method worked for this one dog and he is fine now with people coming into their house. I merely suggested it might work for this dog since a lot of people can't comprehend just how bad it can be-trust me, I never met a dog like this. My first instinct was to turn my back and ignore.Ouch and I agree with your post for the most part, but truly, part of the reason to remove interaction by ignoring the dog and turning away is that you are removing the stimulation. Eventually, the dog *will* stop jumping and if you can then interact they will figure out over time it doesn't work. Especially for a super friendly bouncy dog who really does want your attention.
Getting your v=back clawed sounds like no fun though. You need a Kevlar jacket.
Edit: We decided to do the exercise with the dog on a leash since he was fine approaching people outside while leashed but not inside.
#24
Posted 10 June 2012 - 11:24 AM
I don't fully get what you said but I think you are saying that ignoring and turning away are going to work with these dogs?
In most cases, yes. You posted earlier that removing attention wouldn't work because the dog is overstimulated, and my point was that removing attention can help that.
Of course no training plan works 100% with every dog, and it sounds like you dealt with a dog for whom that was the case, and what you did worked well, especially if he had reached the point where he was biting at your arms deliberately. I am not disagreeing with your training plan (in fact I think its fantastic), just the statement that the "turning away and removal of your attention" will not work with any dog thats overstimulated.
IME, for most dogs, I have found it will work. Its just a less formal version of what you did (rather than walking away, and doing the on leash thing, the human removed themselves emotionally from the interaction). And yes, this actually included a super hyper OES that belonged to an ex boyfriend (who he refused to train, partly why he is a ex), and whole lot of big dogs who I have fostered or helped train over the years. And it works because the dog is jumping up for attention, and when they don't get it they will eventually quit jumping up and you can teach them (over time) that the way to get attention is to do *insert whatever behavior you prefer here* instead of jumping up. And it doesn't require 2 people, or any kind of thought out set up.
And the dog in the OP sounds like a goofy happy dog who genuinely wants the attention.
Training is a journey, not a destination. If you think you’ve arrived, you’ve already missed out.
Denise Fenzi
#25
Posted 11 June 2012 - 07:42 AM
#26
Posted 11 June 2012 - 12:02 PM
A nephew that is staying at the house told me yesterday that she only does this to women.
Lord, if I ever hint that I might want to get an OES will someone please just slap me upside the head.
People say border collies are hard to handle. My dogs are angels compared to this dog. Really makes me appreciate them. Even when they are bad they aren't very bad.
Trying to take care of a dog like this one just takes all the fun out of dog ownership.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


