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Whatever you use, you'll need to be spending time training the dog not to pull. If you do a search on the boards (search function is up the top right of the page), you should find threads where people have given lots of tips on techniques to train dogs not to pull.

 

To manage the situation short term, you have a variety of options - head halters like this are one option (various styles, various pros and cons) and front clip harnesses like this, are management tools most recommended at present, I think. IMHO ordinary harnesses are not all that helpful - after all, we put harnesses on when we want dogs to pull - sledding, carting, tracking.

 

If you do a search on the boards (search function is up the top right of the page), you should find threads where people have given lots of tips on techniques to train dogs not to pull.

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Flat collars are good, if you want to just "train" not to pull.

 

But if you want the collar to help with the timing of the training, prong collars are much better then the choke chains (which can hurt the dog's neck). And then as others have said, harnesses, haltis, or just training the dog out of it with treats, toys, ignoring, turning around....

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One of the first pieces of advice I got when I got Jackson, was to teach him to walk by my side. I was told that no one likes seeing a dog running wild at trials, and I better make sure my dog would always walk next to me. The advice was to walk him on whatever side was comfortable, with the leash as close up as possible without straining on him. Then, in the other hand, have a big flexible type rake. Every time he went past my leg, I was to put the rake in front of him, and give a correction(verbal). It worked great with Jackson, and also with Skip. This is to be started in an enclosed area, free as possible from distractions, then gradually add distractions. Good luck.

 

BTW no special collar or leash is neccesary.

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But if you want the collar to help with the timing of the training, prong collars are much better then the choke chains (which can hurt the dog's neck).
Just remember - prong collars should never be used on a pup that is less that 8-10 months old. And you've got to educate yourself in how to use one before putting it on your dog.
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Originally posted by Dixie_Girl:

The advice was to walk him on whatever side was comfortable, with the leash as close up as possible without straining on him. Then, in the other hand, have a big flexible type rake. Every time he went past my leg, I was to put the rake in front of him, and give a correction(verbal). It worked great with Jackson, and also with Skip. This is to be started in an enclosed area, free as possible from distractions, then gradually add distractions. Good luck.

You can also change this method up slightly and replace the correction for going past with praise and rewards for being in the correct place.

 

I'm in this process with Dean and we've been making a very fun game of it. He is catching on nicely!

 

Personally, I would always try training without any special collars first and consider them only when training without them doesn't work for a particular dog.

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Personally, I would always try training without any special collars first and consider them only when training without them doesn't work for a particular dog.
I prefer this too.

I like to make it just a fun game if I can. Just like teaching any other trick. Very positive!

 

(and Maralynn is exactly right about the prong collars. Not for puppies!)

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