Food!!!

[Senna]

My 6 month old is a fantastic companion until it comes to food time. She'll sit, stay, shake, etc. until I release her for food but after that it"s hoover time. I've had several pups in my life and none have had this behavior. I can pet her, nudge around while eating without aggressive behavior but occasionally she gets the wide front legs guardian stance with a bit of a growl. Everything I've read says not to take her food from her but I've been able to to that with my other dogs.

 

I don't like this and would like to fix before it becomes a bigger issue. Advise?

[Tess's Girl]

Everything I've read says not to take her food from her but I've been able to to that with my other dogs.

 

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

 

I'm a big advocate for letting dogs eat in peace. If I thought that someone was going to take my food away, or was continually bothering me or nudging me while I was eating I would probably growl at them too.

 

Is there a reason you want to be able to take your dog's food away?

 

If you want to be able to keep her from eating something she shouldn't I would recommend a strong "leave it" command.

 

In order to have your dog like having you around the food bowl OCCASIONALLY when you go by drop a couple of extra scrumptious treats into his bowl. Otherwise, set her dish dog, release her to eat her food and walk away.

[CptJack]

I feed in crates.

It has been my experience that the more confident the dog is that they can eat in peace, and the more secure they feel about that, the LESS guarding there is.

I feed the occasional meal as part of training (so basically handfeeding, doling out kibble as rewards for behaviors) but overall, I fill the pole, crate 'em and walk away. The more I "worked" on getting dogs to accept me messing with them while they ate, the more defensive they got.

Which makes sense. I gave them reason to believe they had something to defend against.

[GentleLake]

Many people will tell you you shouldn't take your dog's food away from them. I don't agree with that approach.

 

I want a dog I can feel safe with taking things from them if they have something that maybe isn't safe for them or is valuable for me . . . . or if a kid too young to know better goes up to the dog when it's eating.

 

So I play trading up games with food until I can take anything from my dog and it won't feel threatened.

 

I'm honestly just too tired right now to type the whole thing out again, but you can search the archives here. Several people have explained it in great detail, and not that long ago.

 

After I've worked with the dog with this and I know she's OK with me being around her food, then I'll happily let her eat her meals mostly unmolested. But I want them to know that it's not OK to growl or protect her food from humans first.

 

That said, if there are children in the home or who visit frequently, by all means teach them to leave the dog alone when it's eating. It's basic good manners and safety for kids to learn that. But, imo, that's only half the plan. The other plan involves the dog.

[Senna]

Thanks for all the input all. I don't want to take her food at all, just don't want her to think there's ever a situation where it's ok to growl at me. I would also like to slow her consumption to a reasonable pace.

[Gideon's girl]

Trading up is what I do too. I only do it enough for the dog to learn that me taking something away means getting something better, so I can get dangerous objects from them.

[kingfisher7151]

I also go with the trading method. In our normal day I feed and leave everyone alone to eat in peace. But I also want to be able to take something away if I really have to. Keeper was pretty guardy at a very young age (I suspect it had something to do with being the bottom puppy out of 9), but regardless, I traded the really good treats for his bowl. I started with things as simple as click and treat when my hand was near the bowl if he stayed relaxed about it. Eventually I could easily take the food from him. Also, once he learned "back" I practiced having him back away from food and other desirable objects. My reward was always better than anything he could find in the bowl. I also included lots of hand feeding. There are lots of methods out there!

 

I don't think most people here are particularly fond of methods that might involve trying to intimidate a dog into not growling. I think some people try to forcefully take their food away as punishment for growling, but that only makes the dog more insecure. I'd work on developing trust, so that there's no fear of you taking away her food or creating any other unpleasant situation. (Not that I was implying that you were trying to do those negative things, you might just read some different information floating around on the internet).

 

As far as wolfing her food down, I think the only real options are special bowls or other methods. (Food in a muffin tin, large rock in the food bowl, etc.).

[Donald McCaig]

Dear Doggers,

 

Ms. Tess writes, "Is there a reason you want to be able to take your dog's food away?"

 

Yes. To show the dog you can.

 

Donald McCaig

[Shetlander]

Dear Doggers,

 

Ms. Tess writes, "Is there a reason you want to be able to take your dog's food away?"

 

Yes. To show the dog you can.

However, it can backfire when you keep messing with a dog while he is trying to eat. You can inadvertently train a dog to become aggressive around food because he never know when you are going to try to "steal" it from him.

 

Dogs are often extremely serious about food. Mine all are. From the start, I do a few things. I play trading games and train impulse control when they are given food. I teach leave it and reward for that behavior. I will add food to their bowl as they eat so the associate hands coming towards them as they eat as good. I never take food from them unless I have a compelling reason to do so. And so when I do need to take food from them, sometimes from their mouth, they are so surprised that they let me. I always offer them praise and more or other food. Because their vast experience is I give them food, they have no reason to guard their food and those odd little blips when I take food away are no big deal.

[D'Elle]

However, it can backfire when you keep messing with a dog while he is trying to eat. You can inadvertently train a dog to become aggressive around food because he never know when you are going to try to "steal" it from him.

 

Dogs are often extremely serious about food. Mine all are. From the start, I do a few things. I play trading games and train impulse control when they are given food. I teach leave it and reward for that behavior. I will add food to their bowl as they eat so the associate hands coming towards them as they eat as good. I never take food from them unless I have a compelling reason to do so. And so when I do need to take food from them, sometimes from their mouth, they are so surprised that they let me. I always offer them praise and more or other food. Because their vast experience is I give them food, they have no reason to guard their food and those odd little blips when I take food away are no big deal.

My dogs are all serious about food as well, and I do the same things that Shetlander mentions above, with the same result. When a new dog comes into the house, I do these things frequently until I know that they are comfortable with my actions around their food, and are confident that I will not take their food. I do not continue to do the exercises past that point, as there is no need to. I can take anything from any of my dogs, if I really need to, without a problem.

 

As for bolting food, one of my dogs will do this to the point of choking severely, so he is fed in a special bowl with knobs in the bottom of it, which slows him down enough that he no longer chokes on his food. These are available in supply stores and on the internet.

[Shetlander]

When a new dog comes into the house, I do these things frequently until I know that they are comfortable with my actions around their food, and are confident that I will not take their food. I do not continue to do the exercises past that point, as there is no need to. I can take anything from any of my dogs, if I really need to, without a problem.

 

Important point that the exercises and things to get the dog comfortable with people around their food is not an ongoing project. Once I think they are good, unless I see an issue develop later, I don't do anything special other than not bother my dogs when they eat. Recently I was thinking the Lhasa and I should revisit Leave regarding food. I dropped something right in front of him and he really wanted it. My "leave it" was not enough but he didn't growl, snap or fight me when I pulled him away by his collar, even if he was thinking "aw, shucks!" I did give him a cookie in exchange. I continue to do that whenever I make them lose out on some great prize.

[SkunkOnTheFly]

I totally understand this and why you feel a bit confused. My pit and black lab mix were and still are amazing with food..except for when it comes to the cats because the cats are buttholes. My daughter can jump and lay on my pit while she is eating or chewing bones.

 

My new border collie pup is very guarding of his food, bones, toys, etc. If he has a toy I give him a treat if he let's me take it.

[GentleLake]

My daughter can jump and lay on my pit while she is eating or chewing bones.

 

Just because she can do this with one of your dogs, imo it's very irresponsible to allow your daughter to do this.

 

Too many people have had dogs that are OK with the kids mauling them . . . until they aren't.

 

You never know what will set a dog off. Your own formerly trustworthy dog could be in pain or otherwise not feeling well and react differently than it ever has before. Or your child may assume all dogs are like the one she knows at home and try it with another dog who's not.

 

Dogs are put down all over this country every day for snapping at or biting children. And it's always the dog's fault (not).

 

We see absolutely lovely dogs relinquished to rescue all the time because people didn't teach their kids how to behave appropriately around them. Sadly, if the dog's already bitten, most rescues can't take them because of the liability issues, and it often amounts to a death sentence for the dog. And it would have been entirely preventable if people both taught their dogs to be OK with people being around their food and their kids to behave appropriately with dogs.

 

I think I mentioned it in an earlier post; I wholeheartedly agree that dogs should be allowed to eat and have their chews, bones, etc. without being bothered. . . . after they've learned that they have nothing to fear when someone takes these high value objects. (And even sometimes during the training period. You don't have to take their food from them every time they eat.) My dogs sit and wait for me to tell them it's OK to start to eat. They'll readily give me something they're eating or chewing on, because they know they'll get something even yummier when they do, and 99 times out of a hundred (the odd time being if they have something inappropriate in their mouths) they'll get the original item back as well.

[mum24dog]

Whenever I have got a new dog I have always assumed that it might feel insecure and feel the need to guard it's food and make sure that it gets to eat in peace. Some of them were picked up from the streets where hanging onto survival resources is vital. I have never needed to do the adding nice stuff thing but would if need arose. In 16 years I think the only times I have had to take away a bowl is if I have forgotten to add medication and have been able to do so without complaint, probably because I never do it just to prove a point.

 

Teaching fetch is a good way of retrieving other inappropriate items. If that isn't likely to work trading up usually works. Whatever you do don't make it into a battle.

 

Prevention is better than cure though, but not always possible especially with a puppy. Puppy proofing a house is pretty much the same as toddler proofing it.

[mum24dog]

To Skunkonthefly -You need to teach your daughter to respect your dogs space for her own safety as Gentle Lake says. It isn't fair on your dogs to let her treat them as playthings.

 

I appreciate the need to give a pup things to chew on but create a space for him to do it where he isn't going to be bothered by humans, other dogs or cats so he has no need to defend his treasures.

[Sue R]

Totally agree!

 

 

Just because she can do this with one of your dogs, imo it's very irresponsible to allow your daughter to do this.

 

Too many people have had dogs that are OK with the kids mauling them . . . until they aren't.

 

You never know what will set a dog off. Your own formerly trustworthy dog could be in pain or otherwise not feeling well and react differently than it ever has before. Or your child may assume all dogs are like the one she knows at home and try it with another dog who's not.

 

Dogs are put down all over this country every day for snapping at or biting children. And it's always the dog's fault (not).

 

We see absolutely lovely dogs relinquished to rescue all the time because people didn't teach their kids how to behave appropriately around them. Sadly, if the dog's already bitten, most rescues can't take them because of the liability issues, and it often amounts to a death sentence for the dog. And it would have been entirely preventable if people both taught their dogs to be OK with people being around their food and their kids to behave appropriately with dogs.

 

I think I mentioned it in an earlier post; I wholeheartedly agree that dogs should be allowed to eat and have their chews, bones, etc. without being bothered. . . . after they've learned that they have nothing to fear when someone takes these high value objects. (And even sometimes during the training period. You don't have to take their food from them every time they eat.) My dogs sit and wait for me to tell them it's OK to start to eat. They'll readily give me something they're eating or chewing on, because they know they'll get something even yummier when the do, and 99 times out of a hundred (the odd time being if they have something inappropriate in their mouths) they'll get the original item back as well.

[Sue R]

Totally agree!

 

 

Just because she can do this with one of your dogs, imo it's very irresponsible to allow your daughter to do this.

 

Too many people have had dogs that are OK with the kids mauling them . . . until they aren't.

 

You never know what will set a dog off. Your own formerly trustworthy dog could be in pain or otherwise not feeling well and react differently than it ever has before. Or your child may assume all dogs are like the one she knows at home and try it with another dog who's not.

 

Dogs are put down all over this country every day for snapping at or biting children. And it's always the dog's fault (not).

 

We see absolutely lovely dogs relinquished to rescue all the time because people didn't teach their kids how to behave appropriately around them. Sadly, if the dog's already bitten, most rescues can't take them because of the liability issues, and it often amounts to a death sentence for the dog. And it would have been entirely preventable if people both taught their dogs to be OK with people being around their food and their kids to behave appropriately with dogs.

 

I think I mentioned it in an earlier post; I wholeheartedly agree that dogs should be allowed to eat and have their chews, bones, etc. without being bothered. . . . after they've learned that they have nothing to fear when someone takes these high value objects. (And even sometimes during the training period. You don't have to take their food from them every time they eat.) My dogs sit and wait for me to tell them it's OK to start to eat. They'll readily give me something they're eating or chewing on, because they know they'll get something even yummier when the do, and 99 times out of a hundred (the odd time being if they have something inappropriate in their mouths) they'll get the original item back as well.

[Sue R]

My dogs don't view my taking their bowls as "stealing" their food because they have experience that if I take a bowl, it's usually coming back with extra goodies in it. And it's good to be able to do it if I need to do so. I don't do it (after training) unless I need to.

[Donald McCaig]

Dear Doggers,

 

Ms. Shetlander amends my terse reply (#8): "However, it can backfire when you keep messing with a dog while he is trying to eat."

 

Agreed. There's no reason to do that.

 

And:

 

" I never take food from them unless I have a compelling reason to do so."

 

Agreed again.

 

It has been a very long time since I took food from a dog only to prove that I can do so because the dogs who come into our house understand our rules: I (or my wife Anne) make the decisions and resources belong to me (and Anne). The only time I might take a dog's food is if he told me it was his with a growl, hackles, other warning gesture. I would demonstrate that he was mistaken.

 

There's practical leeway. If a dog picks up something noxious on a walk, if its small enough he'll likely to swallow instead of "leaving it", OK.

 

Some people, including some who should know better, anthropormorphize this situation: "How would you like it, if someone snatched away your dinner?" Those people don't understand dogs. That warning growl means, "I'm in charge (or maybe I'd like to be) and I'll determine what I should do (and perhaps what you should do as well)."

 

I have seen households ruled by a Border Collie. They weren't happy for the humans or the dog.

 

I don't train with treats or offer them although every morning, after they've walked, been trained and eaten, my three Border Collies troop into my workroom where they and I share two breakfast biscuits. Our pack is mannerly but convivial.

 

Donald McCaig

[Maralynn]

I've found that if dogs learn manners, fairness and house rules it carries oveer to their food. Kolt has tried resource guarding from Kenzi. He's a youngster and he was seeing what worked. I told him to knock it off and made him leave the object. Next time I could see him thinking about resource guarding (same object, a bag of dog food across the room) I calmly but firmly told him to "leave it" and then highly rewarded when he turned around and came over to me. He learned what worked and what didn't. Dogs get their space for food, dogs get corrected for rude snarkiness to other dogs (or me!) or for pushy behavior, I manage and train so it doesn't happen again. I can take anything away from them that I want but I sure don't abuse the power.

[Senna]

Ground breaking news. We can now feed the dogs together without the pup touching her 11yr old sister's food, although you can tell she really wants to. I suppose some dogs are just predisposed to devouring food that's given to them and I got one of them.

[Sue R]

Great to hear of your progress!