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Reducing Pre-Agility Anxiety


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Hi, Yoshi is now almost eligible to start competing in Agility. She's almost 17 months now, and know how to do every obstacle. Just needs to keep working on consistency and introducing more advanced stuff like different entrances in slalom among others...

She no longer tries to bite my hands during pratices. In the street she's still a shy dog, affraid of unknown noises a sudden movements. She's more comfortable in known places and in wild forests :)

Still scared to death when sees others riding skate although she's ok when it's me or ever herself on the board.

That's the heads up... now the issue.

 

When we go to practices, some owners leave their dogs in crates when somebody is practiciing in the track. We still haven't gotten a crate, so she sees everything. If she's loose she runs towards the dog that is practicing and round him... won't let the dog do any obstacle. Puts herself in front of any obstacle. Like an Anti-Agility Police Officer.

 

So I put her on a lesh and try to mantain her calm, which is impossible. She becomes possessed, barking and pushing foward. I tried to play with her, don't give a... I tried tricks with treats that she loves at home, don't give a... tried a ball, toy, same thing... Anything I try different doesn't work as she is only focused on the other dog...

 

When practicing she's somewhat dependable, very fast but she becomes so connected to me that I have to sprint up and down to help her guiding. Don't mind about it cause I'm pretty athletic myself so I like to run with her, and she has shown glimpses of being actually good at it... BUT... after watching other dogs and barking like a maniac for 20 or 30 min, when it's her turn, she's so over excite and anxious, she can't even listen to me correctly and sometimes tries to guess things.

So... I would like suggestions to improve this pre-training anxiety (don't know how to call it).

 

 

Here is a small video from a month ago, I wasn't trying to push her for speed, just wanted to make sure she did everything... she's looks to improve every practice :)

 


(it was a very calm and relaxed training session as there was only one more dog there)

 

Thanks, Nuno.

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Yeah, teaching her to be calm on the sidelines is absolutely critical!

 

I would recommend checking out the Control Unleashed program (puppy book is most user-friendly, and it is the same material as the regular book). Mat Work, Look at That Game - those might help.

 

Also, get a portable crate!! You can do the CU Mat Work in the crate to help teach calm. For some dogs it is enough to cover the crate, but not for all.

 

For now, I would keep a good distance away from the action. It isn't good for her to have the opportunity to practice over threshold behavior, and it is important that the other dogs and handlers have a chance to work without a dog reacting nearby.

 

I hope that helps! There is a lot you can do and it's good you are looking into this.

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You definitely need to get a crate and start working on her being in it - when you get to actual agility trials, not only are there going to be lots of other dogs, you're going to have to leave her when you do things like walk the course, and go to judge's briefing, and if your club needs volunteers to do things like bar set, or leash run, or whatever, you're going to need to leave her then, too. Being off leash wont' be allowed, and neither will being tethered. Rushing another dog, on the course or not, will probably get you not just excused from the trial but possibly barred from competing with that organization, period.

 

That said, you also need to start working on this as a separate issue. Pretty much anything dealing with reactive dogs/a reactive dog program will work and help, and so will looking into anything dealing with over-arousal. That means working on leave it, on 'watch me' (looking at you instead of what's going on around her), on look at that, and on creating a distance at which she CAN be successful at those things and rewarding when you get them (probably with food), and maybe even doggy zen. The Control Unleased Puppy Program is wonderful.

 

The good news is, this is something you can work with pretty successfully and you aren't alone. It's a really pretty common behavior for herding breeds. My almost-11 month old is horrible about this, or was. We're on round two of very basic agility foundations classes, just because she couldn't keep her head together around other dogs, especially dogs who were running. First round of classes we had to be behind physical barriers at a couple of points, leave classes early, etc. in spite of being pretty solid on the actual material taught in class.

 

Second go through is going better than the first, though we still need to get her out to an agility practice/run through while my other dog runs and work on her and her behavior there. THEN we'll think trials (as a visitor, not a competitor).

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Very few people crate their dogs in the UK - no room. Those handlers who are sensible work on it as suggested above. Our 9 month old is work in progress but with the summer season starting we will have a lot of opportunity to keep him under threshold around the rings.

 

Nice video. I'd b happy with that for a sensitive pre competition dog.

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So... I would like suggestions to improve this pre-training anxiety (don't know how to call it).

 

This sounds like it would be called reactivity. Lots of info out there on dealing with it because it is a common problem and I will add to the crowd recommending Control Unleashed the puppy program.

 

I tried to play with her, don't give a... I tried tricks with treats that she loves at home, don't give a... tried a ball, toy, same thing... Anything I try different doesn't work as she is only focused on the other dog...

 

If you read through control unleashed (or watch the videos) then you will realize that your dog is over its threshold. That's why nothing is working. You need to move back, away from your dogs trigger. You will have to find the point that your dog will still respond to you. I would recommend to not participate in group practices for a bit and just hang out away from everything, like Root Beer said, you don't want to let your dog practice this behavior. When working on this issue there are going to be two main factors, distance and duration. Definitely add distance, then duration can be controlled by using a nearby barrier (maybe a wall or a building that can block your dogs view of the practice area) or a crate with a cover (although, make sure that you make the crate very high value before using it in this context, but that isn't hard to do).

 

Also, I am fortunate enough to have an instructor nearby that does a relaxed rovers course mostly based on the Control Unleashed program. Maybe you could do some searching and find something near you. Being able to work on this behavior in a controlled class setting is extremely helpful. Good luck!

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Very good advice above (all responses) regarding Yoshi's over-threshold behavior.

 

Regarding the video: she is responding to you very nicely. It is a very good start. I would work on getting her to drive forward without looking at you, because that habit (constantly looking at you) will come back and bite you in the butt later. First, you may notice that she drops bars because she is looking at you - she should be driving forward and focused on the obstacle. I would use a thrown toy to work on getting her to drive forward. Treats can encourage the head-turning because she is looking for a reward. Second, there will come a time when you want her to work at a distance from you. Obviously, distance handling will be very difficult if she likes to run at your side. I know she is a young dog, and I think she is coming along wonderfully, but these are a couple of things to think about as you advance in agility.

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If you read through control unleashed (or watch the videos) then you will realize that your dog is over its threshold. That's why nothing is working. You need to move back, away from your dogs trigger. You will have to find the point that your dog will still respond to you. I would recommend to not participate in group practices for a bit and just hang out away from everything, like Root Beer said, you don't want to let your dog practice this behavior. When working on this issue there are going to be two main factors, distance and duration. Definitely add distance, then duration can be controlled by using a nearby barrier (maybe a wall or a building that can block your dogs view of the practice area) or a crate with a cover (although, make sure that you make the crate very high value before using it in this context, but that isn't hard to do).

 

That ^ ^

 

:) I don't do agility, I do sheepdogging, but what you describe is a dog whose brain is totally overwhelmed. Some working dogs can't watch trial runs for any length of time without getting wound up, too.

 

If a crate is in the planning, don't wait. Get one now. It will be a kindness to her. Give your dog a place to be calm and relax between and before runs. Also, as Chanse says, beware of her threshold and the distance at which she starts to react. Finally, I've heard only good things about the Control Unleashed book, so I'd say check it out. :)

 

 

I don't think over-excitement is beneficial to any canine endeavor - like the dog tethered in the background of your video bouncing up and down. That's not a useful state of mind. You'll be helping her by giving her space to think. Best of luck!

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Thanks. Yoshi is actually from a working lineage but unfortunatly we were never able to take her to work with sheeps as we live in city environment. I will check the program and try to get a crate. I've put her already in crate before (other owners ones) and she didn't seem to responde badly to it, but wasn't great too, though we weren't paying attention to distance. I will try that out as soon as I can! :)

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One little "cheat" you can use with some dogs to help them enjoy the crate is to get a Kong, fill it with something wonderful, freeze it, and put it in the crate with the dog in between runs.

 

If your dog can't pay a bit of attention to the Kong when it is usually irresistible, that's a good gauge to show you that the dog is, in fact, over threshold. Then you need distance, or to remove your dog from the situation to do further training.

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