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My 7 month is a husky in BC clothes! There is NEVER not any tension on his leash. And its not the maniacal pull in all directions but just normally going forward he pulls my shoulder off like he's the lead dog of a sled team.

 

So one of my errors is I've been using the step-in harness which I now understand encourages pulling. So I spent $26 yesterday for this cheaply made harness and got it on him when I got home from work last night. As we're leaving out the door to try it for the very first time, my wife walks in as she was getting home from work also. So as the dog and I are ready to bolt out the door for our walk, she proceeds to tell me about her day :angry: I notice Sammy is a bit annoyed (or just bored) with the new harness strap near his mouth and tell him "no" and pull it away as I'm getting an earful myself. All in all it couldn't have been more than about two minutes and we're finally ready to head out he slips right out of the harness and is out the door! I look at the harness he left in his wake and see he sawed one of the straps right off with his teeth! So rather than spend yet another 26 bones on what looks like about $1.09 in materials, can anyone suggest a better no pull harness?

 

61N-m0eYSWL_SL1500__zpsf050c47d.jpg

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I bought this a few weeks ago and while my dog is still learning how not to pull (no harness/halter will end that without training), this at least saves my arm/shoulder while my dog is learning not to pull.

 

www.wonderwalkerbodyhalter.com

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This harness gets excellent reviews here in the UK and there are a couple of stockists in the US too -<br /><br />http://dog-games-shop.co.uk/perfect-fit-fleece-dog-harness<br /><br />A correctly fitting harness that does not cause pain or discomfort can actually remove or reduce the dog's desire to pull and, as it says in the link, can provide a sense of security for an anxious dog.<br /><br />I'm not hung up on a dog having to walk nicely on a normal collar. If it is happier,less reactive and walking better in a harness then that's what we will use.

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Erin, that looks a lot like the harness I bought and never got to use :angry: But thank you for the link. That company links a pet store that can't be more than 2 miles from my house so I'll go in there and inquire about training as Liz suggested.

 

mum24dog, thanks for that link! Helluva harness, I'm getting one for Sammy and will use until he's properly trained.

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Rob, I agree, they look pretty similar. I think the Wonder Walker is made from a thicker material and it also comes with an extra link in the back so you can attach to a seatbelt in the car. The only thing I would caution is that make sure whatever harness/halter you get is one that attaches the leash in FRONT by the chest not in the back.

Erin

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If your dog chewed through an Easy Walk harness, then it wasn't fitted properly. It's supposed to be quite snug on the body and a dog wouldn't be able to get it's jaw in to chew. The possible exception might be if he chewed the martingale part of it, but even then that would be very difficult unless the harness was too loose.

 

I've heard some things about the front clip no-pull harness (was it on these boards?) potentially causing shoulder problems if the dog continues to pull.

 

Here's an alternative that looks interesting: http://sporn.com/training/sporn-halter/

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I think since the original poster suggested that pulling was the primary issue he should be looking into a harness that has the leash attachment on the front. The Julius K-9 and the Perfect Fit look like *awesome* harnesses, but only have the back clip which I've heard can make pulling worse.

 

I, personally, would love to find a good quality harness that has both a front clip (to discourage pulling on controlled walks) AND a back clip (for when we're out exploring, hiking or running). I'm kinda' surprised they aren't more common, but I digress... I just wanted to let the OP know that he should really be focusing on the front clip harnesses for his needs. The one linked by GentleLake that goes under the arms seemed like a neat "no-pull" design too!

 

The advice to take a training class (or consult a trainer) is a good one as well. The harness can be a supportive tool during the process, but the only way to teach loose leash walking is with training and patience (LOTS of the latter). If you do a video search for "loose leash walking" you are bound to get a gazzilion videos explaining multiple of ways to train your dog to walk like a civilized canine.

 

Sorry I wasn't able to suggest a specific halter/harness... I'm still looking for my dream harness, too. :)

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I think since the original poster suggested that pulling was the primary issue he should be looking into a harness that has the leash attachment on the front. The Julius K-9 and the Perfect Fit look like *awesome* harnesses, but only have the back clip which I've heard can make pulling worse.

 

I, personally, would love to find a good quality harness that has both a front clip (to discourage pulling on controlled walks) AND a back clip (for when we're out exploring, hiking or running).

 

 

I used a harness similar to this one (mine is nicer, has two clips in the back so I don't have to feel his legs through an opening, but the tag has worn off and I can't see the brand):

 

http://www.puplife.com/products/lupine-solid-green-dog-harness-1?gclid=CMH48JTH9LoCFcY1Qgod9wsA2g

 

I clipped the leash to the front O ring for just walking him, and now its our tracking harness.

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Many many of my friends use the Julius K-9. Camden's Mom is right - there is nothing "no pull" about this one. It is easy to put on and take off, which is why agility folks like it. I *do not* like it, as if the dog does pull (which mine does going to the ring), the tension is in way wrong places.

 

Agree that a low, front attaching is about the only one that won't encourage pulling....

 

diane

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I think since the original poster suggested that pulling was the primary issue he should be looking into a harness that has the leash attachment on the front.

 

Well, if the risk of shoulder injury's true, then it might be better to look into alternatives like the Sporn harness.

 

There another type that shows up on doggyloot from time to time, that I'm afraid I can't remember the name of. It looks like a regular collar with an attachment that runs down the dog's back to what appears to be another collar that goes around the body behind the ribs and in front of the dog's hind legs.

 

If you're interested in checking out doggyloot, you'll get a $5 credit for signing up if you use this link: https://doggyloot.com/invite/f9f46746 (Yes, I'll also get a credit if you purchase something, but honestly, I'm not posting the link for that reason. I often use them to check out items and buy elsewhere where things are cheaper, though with their free shipping, it's often the best deal.)

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Well, if the risk of shoulder injury's true, then it might be better to look into alternatives like the Sporn harness.

 

The shoulder might be a tad tender from all Sammy's pulling but really, my focus now is to correct his pulling for much of his own sake. Here are a few shots of what I've been using. I've always used the "walk in" harness for my old guy and its perfect for him. Just not the youngin'. Thanks for all the helpful responses!

 

sammy22_zpsc0c31f45.jpg

sammy_foster3_zps82e27dec.jpg

sammy20_zps4588534e.jpg

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When I was involved with puppy and family dog training classes, one item they used to help folks with serious pulling issues was a front-clip harness and I can't remember the name right now for certain but it could have been the Easy Walk. We had two versions, one of which was preferable as it was much sturdier (with wider straps and better fittings) than the other - but the club carried both because one version fit certain size/build dogs a bit better than the other, and vice verse. The other may have been by Premier?

 

Properly fitted and adjusted (essential, as GentleLake pointed out), the harness seemed to work miracles with some strong pullers. I believe that's because with the leash attached to the ring at the center of the chest, it did not provide anything that the dog could pull against.

 

Once the dog learned to walk politely and experienced social situations (sidewalks, etc.), reacting with polite walking, you could begin to wean from the harness to the collar since you could start by attaching the leash to both the front center ring on the harness and to a ring on the collar; then use only the collar (maybe leaving the harness on for "psychological" effect;, and then go entirely to the collar.

 

The harness had to be fitted snugly and proportionally so that it worked right; so that it was secure and the dog couldn't slip out inadvertently; and so that the dog would not be able to get hold of it to chew on it. In addition, the instructors were adamant that the harness was never, ever to be on without total and strict supervision because, as the OP found out, a dog could chew through the nylon strap easily if he/she could get their jaw under it.

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I am not familiar with this particular harness but it seems to me that it is not properly or comfortably adjusted to the dog's body. It's passing over the shoulder blades instead of being securely behind them and the chest strap looks too short, further pulling the barrel part of the harness forward and out of place.

 

Just an observation,.and I might well be wrong, but that pup looks uncomfortable to me.

 

The shoulder might be a tad tender from all Sammy's pulling but really, my focus now is to correct his pulling for much of his own sake. Here are a few shots of what I've been using. I've always used the "walk in" harness for my old guy and its perfect for him. Just not the youngin'. Thanks for all the helpful responses!

 

sammy22_zpsc0c31f45.jpg

sammy_foster3_zps82e27dec.jpg

sammy20_zps4588534e.jpg

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When the dog is into pulling, just use the regular leash. Pull it straight back to just in front of the dog's hind legs, wrap it under the dog, then pull the leash back through itself up top - about at the hips. From the collar back to you it will look like an upside-down T. I have no idea why it works.

 

The teacher at Dixie's first training class used it for the big dog that was overpowering its owners. Worked a treat. I tried it at one class with the next teacher (yeah, I made Dixie repeat first grade, even though she officially passed) and got scolded.

 

Dixie turned 2-years- old today. I don't need that trick often. But I still do use it - with both the 6-foot and the 30-foot leashes - when she gets too rambunctious.

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When my bitch broke her pelvis and had to be leash walked for several weeks (and more) I used an Easy Walk type with no problems. Now, this dog didn't pull with me before the harness use but I KNEW she would pull DH. By the end of her recovery she was starting to pull somewhat with the front clip harness but not effectively. My opinion is to TRAIN the dog to not pull. There are several methods that show step by step how to teach a dog to walk without pulling using positive reinforcement. But you HAVE to realize that pulling is rewarding to the dog, so NO pulling can be allowed. Over the years I've seen dogs pull on harnesses, head collars, pinch collars, choke chains and any other tool. The only cure is to train the dog. The rest are just tools to help with the training. Consistency, absolute consistency is the key.

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Dear Doggers,

 

Agree. I can understand why a frail or disabled person might need an apparatus to prevent a dog from pulling. Otherwise I cannot see the point. My dogs are rarely on lead and some might imagine they'd be determined pullers when their freedom is suddenly restricted. Nope. My 120 pound guard dogs who are only "on leash" when they must go to the vet or are put up during sheepdog trials want to pull but desist when I tell them to.

 

One common exchange when novices bring their dog to a sheepdog clinic goes like this:

 

Instructor: "Why is that dog pulling."

 

Novice: "He always pulls. He's terrible that way (embarrassed laugh)"

 

Instructor: "How can you trust him off leash on sheep if you can't trust him when he's attached with a (chain/strong leather strap etc)?"

 

Novice: "Er."

 

Instructor: "Give him to me. I'll sort it out."

 

And moments later - not hours, not days, not after lengthy sophisticated instruction- the dog no longer pulls.

 

When your dog pulls tell him to stop pulling. Not many things in dog training are utterly simple. This is.

 

Donald McCaig

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When your dog pulls tell him to stop pulling. Not many things in dog training are utterly simple. This is.

 

You would think. I found that true with all my dogs but Quinn. He had a flashy obedience ring heel but walking pleasantly on a leash did not come easy at all. I think when your dog's excursions out into the world beyond your small property are all on leash it is a different level of excitement compared to the fortunate dogs who live on farms and are rarely leashed. Especially a dog with lots of drive and energy.

 

Anyway, I was neither frail nor disabled and I opted for a no pull harness when Quinn was young. I knew it wasn't training. I accept that I copped out. But it worked, he stopped pulling and eventually I started using a collar on our walks. He now wears a comfort fit harness which isn't a no pull and I worried he might start up again, but he remains an excellent walking companion.

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I think since the original poster suggested that pulling was the primary issue he should be looking into a harness that has the leash attachment on the front. The Julius K-9 and the Perfect Fit look like *awesome* harnesses, but only have the back clip which I've heard can make pulling worse.

Can't speak for the Julius K-9 but the Perfect Fit comes with a front ring option as it says in the link. (Sorry, I hadn't spotted that you had seen that earlier.)

 

I suggested that a club member who is seriously weakened by arthritis that she try one for her young and incredibly strong Viszla and she is extremely pleased with it - no more pulling.

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I think when your dog's excursions out into the world beyond your small property are all on leash it is a different level of excitement compared to the fortunate dogs who live on farms and are rarely leashed. Especially a dog with lots of drive and energy.

Well said. That's the real world most people live in and it's most unnatural for a dog.

 

I'd love to have someone with a simplistic approach as Donald mentioned deal with a dog like my late Ross without reducing him to a quivering peeing wreck or risking injury to him or worse, destroying his hard won trust in some humans.

 

I could get him to walk well on lead because he trusted me not to harm him but he couldn't sustain it for long. Off lead, fine, and if it were practical in such a crowded island I would have chosen not to use a lead most of the time.

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